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My New (Old) Mini Keeps Cutting Out


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#76 Marc13

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Posted 02 October 2020 - 09:19 PM

Thats gone straight over my head...sorry!

If you look at the 1st photo - you can see the wire has come out of the blue connector (which is in a bad state) -is it simply a case of putting in another blue connector of the same size (or is this wrong on the first place)?

 

If you look at the second photo - you can see where the wire joins the red connector just at the -ve connection on the coil, the wire is exposed. So i need to replace this, or at least reconnect it. The wire here is very short, which is the reason why it has started to come apart, as its being pulled at a tight angle due to the short length....so a new piece of wire is likely to be the better option.cuncKmZ.jpgznpq7ER.jpg

1) what wire do i need to get as a replacement?

2) I would imagine the connector is pretty much shot too - is there a specific rating of connector i need (or just a red one)?

Sorry guys.....complete novice....but trying to learn!



#77 GraemeC

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Posted 02 October 2020 - 09:19 PM

As Cal844 says - use wire of a similar diameter to that which you are repairing.
Crimp terminal size/colour should also match the wire. You are unlikely to need yellow unless you are repairing the heavy brown power cables. The wire should fit snuggly into the crimp - use a blue connector on a thin wire and you won’t get a reliable crimp and it is likely to pull out.



#78 Marc13

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Posted 02 October 2020 - 09:34 PM

Looking at these small dia wires then - would a red crimp/terminal suit in both cases then?

#79 Marc13

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 09:32 AM

Thanks for all the advice.

I put all the new parts on yesterday and was hoping for it to spring in to life on the turn of the key.

Unfortunately it coughed and spluttered like nothing I have heard before - I thought how many cylinders is this actually working off. Tried a few times and no improvement. Gave it one last try and after a bit more terminal sounding coughing...it was like it cleared and revved freely.

Upon starting now, it still does an awful lot of coughing before it starts - really does sound terrible, then eventually revs freely. Haven't driven it yet, as I'm going to change a few wires/connectors today.

 

It is not a result of the changed parts, as it had started to do it during the week, when I was just having at look at things. The only thing I disturbed relating to fuel/carb etc is the carb damper (black screw cap in the middle of its dashpot), which I unscrewed, pulled the thing out and put it back in again.

Below is a link to a video (with sound) of it trying to start!https://i.imgur.com/6jUv7KT.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/6jUv7KT.mp4

 

Any idea what is going on here?



#80 RustyAutoCityE

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 10:30 AM

Over-fueling maybe?

 

Take the plugs back out and clean them up in case they have fouled.

 

How does it start/run with the choke pushed in?



#81 Marc13

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 11:43 AM

Over-fueling maybe?

 

Take the plugs back out and clean them up in case they have fouled.

 

How does it start/run with the choke pushed in?

Took the plugs out, which were brand new yesterday, they are really black already! Is that a sign of something?

Struggles to start at all - without choke



#82 Marc13

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 12:47 PM

Just noticed the plugs i took out are BP6ES
The new ones I put in are BPR6ES??

#83 GraemeC

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 01:03 PM

The R is because they have done resistance in them - which is better for the electronic ignition you have.

When you removed the dash pot damper, did the centre tube it sits in have any oil in? If not, fill it up until it is about 1/4” from the top and replace the damper. At this stage I’d suggest 3in1 if you have some as it is close to the proper spec and the spout on the tin makes it easy to get it into the tube.

If it’s been running with the choke pulled then it will be rich and the plugs will be sooty. In a good run they should burn themselves clean.

Edited by GraemeC, 04 October 2020 - 01:04 PM.


#84 cal844

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Posted 04 October 2020 - 02:13 PM

I'd start with 3 in 1 oil in the dashpot, if that doesn't give a clean throttle response try 20w50 engine oil (which is what was specified in the manuals).

Id remove the carb top and piston to check that the jet is clear, do the same for the float valve

#85 Marc13

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 12:43 PM

When I take the damper out of the dashpot, reading it like a dip stick, I would say there is oil up to about half way. So I will add a little more.

 

When you say remove the carb top - is that basically taking the dashpot off the top? There are about 3 screws that hold it in place. I have attached a couple of photos.

 

Will I need to clamp anything off?

Will the oil in the dash pot come out the bottom, once I take the screws out and start to remove it?

Wheres the piston?

Wheres the float valve?vqksolO.jpgN0jYAyw.jpg



#86 Marc13

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 03:27 PM

Not touched the carb yet. But I have been out and topped the oil up in the dash pot.

Tried to turn it over again, and it is still coughing for a couple of minutes before it will start, have to keep the key turned while its coughing. Then all of a sudden it clears and revs.

I have noticed though, that when it is revving, at times if you give it too much gas, it just dies, but you can save it by backing right off the accelerator. Give it more gas again and it just stops revving, back off and it revs again. What could this be pointing to?



#87 GraemeC

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 04:49 PM

OK - once it has run for a minute or so turn it off, clean the plugs, and then try to start it again with no choke.

Let it tick over for 5 minutes or so and then see if it will rev cleanly.

 

Will I need to clamp anything off? - No

Will the oil in the dash pot come out the bottom, once I take the screws out and start to remove it? - No (unless you turn things upside down)

Wheres the piston? - Inside the dash pot.  It may come away with the dashpot, it may not (depends on the exact carb type).

Wheres the float valve? - In the bottom of the carb - you can't get to this without removing the whole carb (on an earlier HS4 type of carb you can easily get to this from above)



#88 Marc13

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 05:34 PM

Thanks Graeme,

Is there any liquid I should use to clean the plugs with, or just give them a wipe down?



#89 GraemeC

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 05:43 PM

Ideally a brass wire brush



#90 cal844

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Posted 05 October 2020 - 09:25 PM

How much Choke are you applying? Whilst cranking play around with the Choke, maybe even try using full throttle just until the engine fires, then lift off... Does full throttle make it easier to start? (if so, it's too rich at idle or on Choke)




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