
Fwd R1 mini
#31
Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:46 PM
Is he still using the same driveline setup as the yellow one, reversed R1, chain, modded mini diff?
Cheers
David
#32
Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:55 PM
#33
Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:57 PM
I very much doubt they would, ask them to do a front engined Vtec and they won't do it.z cars will do one for you
#34
Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:05 PM
will someone hurry up and release a kit to buy god dammit...........
You cant rush perfection lol, my mate Darren might sell his yellow mini once his new car is finished and touch wood start selling his kits. The trouble Darren has he builds a lot of grass track cars so most of his time is spent on these, I will try and kick his ass for you peeps so he can get his kits done and sold
yeah he is chatting to my mate lee, i just hate all the waiting and not knowing

I very much doubt they would, ask them to do a front engined Vtec and they won't do it.
z cars will do one for you
and yeah they wont we asked. said no one would be interested in it

Edited by t@z, 09 November 2006 - 04:06 PM.
#35
Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:10 PM
Thanks for the info!
#36
Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:18 PM
Brightsparkz, chain supplier wise dont run a cheap one they dont tend to last as long.
#37
Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:24 PM
#38
Posted 09 November 2006 - 05:06 PM

#39
Posted 13 November 2006 - 05:57 PM
just two things that spring to mind first is the gearing it looks to me that the chain size in the picture around the sprocket is very close to the diff bolt pattern therefore indicating a small "big sprocket it says a 15 tooth "small sprocket has been used this will give the car a tall overall gearing and hamper the performance also a small diameter "big sprocket " gives the chain a real pasting basically its got no leverage on the diff a bit like having a short bar on a socket then fitting a long bar to it the effort needed to do this is much less if you imagine that the chain is your arm and to turn the wheels requires a set amount of leverage then a bigger sprocket will require less pull on the chain
also the chain gets hammered by physically having to bend around two small sprockets in quick succession and has no time to recover if you imagine loading the chain to say 8000lbs of static load it will never break or wear out but then ask it to turn at 3 to6 thousand revolutions per miniute which it has to when running down the road with 8000 lbs of load on it then you can see the problem
i would be surprised if the chains lasted more than a hundred miles and i can call on real experiance to back this up
about 6 years ago a fellow grass track racer and top engineer geoff beresford made a sweet little drive system for the class 8 autograss cars ( for those of you who dont know geoff he is one of the best and most inventive engineers i know and in fact made the transfer box fitted to darren grasbys car) he wanted to get the drive train close to the back of the engine and used 530 chain and smaller than normal sprockets to acheive this he even ran two chains side by side to alleviate the above well known difficulties
the cars fitted with this system ran for about half a season
they kept breaking chains and wearing them out in around 20 miles of racing
he gave up and moved onto the current version using bigger sprockets and a chain thats loads longer
secondly accepting that the chain will get some greif what provision is there for tensioning
having been involved for the past fourteen years building bike engined car and having seen and tried various things both myself and with others i reckon the only answer to this once and for all is a proper gear driven box which can be both compact and reliable
if im wrong about the chain on these setups then i will hold my hands up and say i am but id like to thrash one around for an hour and see how it stood up to it im not saying it wont work and drive just that engineering wise its going to be on the raggy edge
#40
Posted 13 November 2006 - 07:58 PM
#41
Posted 13 November 2006 - 09:00 PM
Darren Grasby uses an even shorter chain, as far as I know he has got that to work, so maybe it can be done
David
#42
Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:43 AM
hi chris, the box/diff on my mini i made myself, geoff did do the 1 on the class 8 though.
Darren
Edited by fwdr1mini, 15 November 2006 - 01:06 AM.
#43
Posted 15 November 2006 - 05:09 PM
darren i thought geoff did some work on it dont know where i got that from but ive been under that impression for a while so its hard to rememberdavid, yes mine does work well now but it did take some messing and learning with to get there. i agree with what chris is saying but i think ive found away round the problem.
hi chris, the box/diff on my mini i made myself, geoff did do the 1 on the class 8 though.
Darren
the real answer is that protrans box weve been developing with geoff but we are so busy with all the other mini that id not bothered up till now
im expecting the first box to go onto the turbo elise we have here for some test running to evaluate the reliability of it with 400 bhp running through it
trouble with the box is it aint cheap but it will be better than a chain long term
i suppose once we get the boxes sorted we can marry one of our tubular frames to the box and do a kit but i will always be a rear wheel drive man at heart
what are you racing next year by the way
chris
#44
Posted 15 November 2006 - 06:02 PM

#45
Posted 16 November 2006 - 10:28 AM
still going to race the 8 next year and im building a 4 aswell. have you got any front wishbones still, i heard you had sold the jigs?
definitley a rwd man aswell but i had to prove a bike could go in the front aswell, didnt want to copy you.
aint it about time you came out to play again!
darren
rich, prefers to be known as the SHIM i hear its coming to southam soon for some bald!
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