25 replies to this topic

[zace66]

Can anyone point me to where we can find this fuse - it allows half the right hand side lights to work - the other half are fine, but they run off the main fuse 7-8 in the engine bay.

 

[RedRuby]

On your model there may be 4 inline fuses behind the dash  just above the steering column bracket one each for left hand main beams and low beams and one each for right hand main beams and low beams. I know I have this configuration on my 93 cabriolet.

[cal844]

On your model there may be 4 inline fuses behind the dash just above the steering column bracket one each for left hand main beams and low beams and one each for right hand main beams and low beams. I know I have this configuration on my 93 cabriolet.

A 93 sprite WILL have this setup too. On my car dipped beam and main beam are on separate fuses on each side.

[zace66]

yup - i have those fuses.... i checked therm by sight, but im realising with glass fuses I need to test them with my multimeter....

Found a duff one under the bonnet that looked fine and now we have the horn and stage 1 of the immobilizer working :)

 

We will take the instrument panel apart again tonight and check those 4....

 

Thanks guys

[cal844]

yup - i have those fuses.... i checked therm by sight, but im realising with glass fuses I need to test them with my multimeter....
Found a duff one under the bonnet that looked fine and now we have the horn and stage 1 of the immobilizer working :)

We will take the instrument panel apart again tonight and check those 4....

Thanks guys

There is an even simpler test, remove the fuse and simply try to spin the ends in opposite ways from the other. If you can do this then the fuse needs replaced.

Also check for any burning or bubbled plastic of the fuse holder. I changed mine to blade fuses

Edited by cal844, 01 September 2020 - 03:45 PM.

[zace66]

well we checked them - all 4 were great... so still no side lights on the right hand side. So where to next?  I have to admit im a bit stumped.

[cal844]

Also check the line fuses behind the carb as one of these may work the right side lights. After that check the wiring connectors at the grille are all fully seated.


Have you checked the bulbs?

Test for power at the wiring connectors at the grille (3 way bullet connector) and rear light cluster. Are the earth connections good and not corroded/ brittle?

I'd suggest you purchase an automotive power probe as it's a much better tool than a multimeter, you'll wonder how you survived without one. By far the best £60 I spent.

Edited by cal844, 02 September 2020 - 09:01 PM.

[MikeRotherham]

Don't know if this helps.

 

From my handbook (94 Mayfair):

 

RH side light, tail light and instrument pack illumination. The inline fuse is located behind the carburettor. It is a 15 amp fuse with Red/White wire.

 

I find to check those it's best to remove the air filter, if standard one still fitted, and a good light. To spare your back, if you're there for any length of time, get something to kneel on!

Edited by MikeRotherham, 03 September 2020 - 07:08 AM.

[zace66]

Cheers guys - indeed we have checked the fuses behind the air filter - actually going to be changing those for newer spade fuses as the one with brown didnt spring up...  actually now the car wont start as poroblem with the immobiliser, which still has power oddly - hey ho.  Oh and the bumbs are fine as we have repaced the lamps with cool new LED ones and the reaer light doesnt work either.

Keep the ideas coming :)

[cal844]

Don't change for blade fuses unless you have burnt connections.

There should only be a spring on one side of the inline fuse holders iirc

[MikeRotherham]

That fuse also protects the rear light as well.

 

I have found that the contacts on these fuse holders need constant cleaning and reseating even though the fuse is ok.

 

I have the same problem with the fuse for the rear fog light. Jiggling it about gets it to work.

 

I think swapping the lot for something more modern, I have 6 behind the carburettor, is the only way to go.

 

With regard to the leds some will only work with the correct polarity. I'd get the lot working with incandescent bulbs then swap them out for leds

Edited by MikeRotherham, 03 September 2020 - 09:40 PM.

[cal844]

That fuse also protects the rear light as well.

I have found that the contacts on these fuse holders need constant cleaning and reseating even though the fuse is ok.

I have the same problem with the fuse for the rear fog light. Jiggling it about gets it to work.

I think swapping the lot for something more modern, I have 6 behind the carburettor, is the only way to go.

I have never had an issue with them, I have only ever swapped to blade fuses as a last resort as you need to half the rating from glass to blade, so 15 becomes 7.5, the 7.5 is near enough impossible to get hold of in standard blade fuse size.

[MikeRotherham]

I think one of the problems is since removing the water collecting factory fitted foam.

 

The fuses are suspended in a void and are subject to excessive vibration and movement.

 

It's mainly the rear fog lamp in my case that just stops working. Reseating the fuse fixes it.

 

I would like to replace the lot with a custom made 6 bladed fuse box made specially to fit in that space. But that is just a fantasy on my part

 

Also the quality of glass fuses these days seem to be poor.

Edited by MikeRotherham, 03 September 2020 - 10:01 PM.

[zace66]

I will change the 1 with the burnt connector. only in that case - thanks for the advice - more when the next order from amazon arrives and I can change them over. (Tomorrow I hope)

[zace66]

Fuse holder and fuse swapped out (was a 15A glass so I replaced it with a 10A blade (I hope that is correct)) - nothing has changed. That was the brown cable by the way.

Still no sidelights on the right.