13 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

One of the biggest problems with my Engine Re-Build so far is trying to work out which bolts are required where and which ones I have and which ones I don't.

I opted to clean up lost of the existing bolts and re-plate them and as I only have about 1/2 it's making things tricky.

 

Diff Output Covers

On the Diff can anyone confirm that the bolts for the Diff Output Covers are 5/16 x 1" UNC. On one side that's what I used

 

Timing Plate

 

I am a little lost with the Timing Plate, and as I am fitting a Duplex Timing Gear I won't be using the Tensioner so does that mean additional / different bolts to go in where the tensioner would normally go?

 

Some of the bolts go into the block and some screw into the timing plate itself, and on the Somerford Diagram some of the bolts are entitled Main Bearing Cap ???? Confused.

 

So with this in mind can anyone tell me what bolts / washers and lock washers I need? 

 

I find the Mini Spares and Somerford quite tricky to work out what bolts are for what. 

 

This is an A+ 1275 from a Mk 2 Metro (about F reg 1988/9), lots of these original bolts are flanged. 

 

[nicklouse]

first you need to countersink the two holes by the crank. then they are all basically the same as before. you can add bolts to where the tensioner would have been.

[MaximMini]

Hi Jonny,

 

I had same same issues with organising the bolts and screws after receiving them back from plating. May be my post 15 http://www.theminifo...oxes/?p=3646274 can be of any help.

 

 

Cheers

 

[johnR]

The three that hold the cam locking plate are a smaller diameter, you'll need countersunk ones by the crank, then there are two different diameters and lengths for the bolts that hold the cover on - little short ones where they only go through the plate and cover and bigger ones where they go through into the block etc.

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi Jonny,

 

I had same same issues with organising the bolts and screws after receiving them back from plating. May be my post 15 http://www.theminifo...oxes/?p=3646274 can be of any help.

 

 

Cheers

 

This is a great resource, however on the image I need I can't read the dimensions? 

 

The three that hold the cam locking plate are a smaller diameter, you'll need countersunk ones by the crank, then there are two different diameters and lengths for the bolts that hold the cover on - little short ones where they only go through the plate and cover and bigger ones where they go through into the block etc.

 

I think I bought new ones for the Cam Locking Plate when I bought a new plate? 

 

I have countersunk the two under the Crank not sure if this is enough? Didn't want to go too far:

 

 

The ones that go through the plate into the block look to be 5/16 UNF but I am unsure of the length?

The ones for the timing cover into the plate I think are 1/4 UNF but again not sure on length?

 

I have checked using the Somerford Diagrams (extracted below):

 

 

However my timing plate looks different? 

 

 

All the one in the diagrams have an extra hole to the RH side of the Crank? And mine has a small hole to left of the Crank which does not seem to do anything?

 

This is a 12H A+ post 1985 Engine.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 24 August 2020 - 07:54 PM.

[MaximMini]

Hi Jonny,

The 1/4“ bolts have a thread length of 7 mm and need to be used with a lock washer to stop them from bottoming out. The 5/16“ bolts have a thread length of 17 mm. Please excuse for providing the informations in SI units

Cheers

[imack]

My MED front plate looks pretty much like yours except it uses studs and nuts instead of bolts.

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[JonnyAlpha]

Hi Jonny,

The 1/4“ bolts have a thread length of 7 mm and need to be used with a lock washer to stop them from bottoming out. The 5/16“ bolts have a thread length of 17 mm. Please excuse for providing the informations in SI units

Cheers

 

That'll be 1/4" x 1/4 UNF for Timing Cover into the Plate but for the 5/16" bolts 17mm is 0.66" about 2/3"? when you say thread length have the bolts got a shank, what's the measurement from the underside of the head to the end of the bolt?  

[johnv]

Am I missing something? Why would you get bolts replated instead of buying good quality new ones?... serious question!

[JonnyAlpha]

Am I missing something? Why would you get bolts replated instead of buying good quality new ones?... serious question!

 

If the original bolt is fine, why not re-plate it. Also a lot of these original bolts are the better flanged ones which I am having difficulty finding new. A lot of the original bolts are a better quality, I am trying to source good quality new ones but proving difficult, buying them individually from MiniSpares or MiniSport is one option but not the best value. 

[JonnyAlpha]

My MED front plate looks pretty much like yours except it uses studs and nuts instead of bolts.

 

I did consider the MED one but it was another £45 on top of what I have already spent and still need to spend!!

[alex-95]

I think the countersinks need to go a bit deeper, you can always fit the gear and chain and see if there is enough clearance.

[JonnyAlpha]

I think the countersinks need to go a bit deeper, you can always fit the gear and chain and see if there is enough clearance.

 

Agreed, I didn't want to go too deep to start with

[JonnyAlpha]

Going back to the problem of sourcing the correct bolts / nuts for the Timing Plate.

On the Somerford diagram, the timing plate comes in three varieties, the one I need is this one I believe:

 

Timing Cover 1974-96 ('simplex' chain with tensioner pad)

 

This means the bolts / screws are items 62 and 65 are 1/4" x 3/8" UNF and 5/16" x 3/4" as this 12H engine was originally fitted with a Simplex Chain and is a post 85 - 90 ish engine?

 

I think I'll order these up and as see where we get.