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Pre Verto Clutch Won't Fully Disengage


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#1 miniman86

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:13 PM

Another odd question. I've a pre verto clutch on my 1330, with an orange diaphragm. When I removed the engine I noticed it had a verto flywheel bolt. I changed the bolt to the bigger pre verto bolt, but now the clutch pedal doesn't fully depress unless it has no fluid. It's also got a new pre verto slave cylinder. I've taken it all out, and the pedal full depresses, and the master cylinder also fully pushes in on the bench. It's only once it's bled. I'm wondering whether the flywheel bolt is now stopping the clutch fully disengaging? I just wasn't sure it was right having a verto bolt holding on a pre verto flywheel.

Any help is much appreciated!

Alex

#2 nicklouse

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:29 PM

Another odd question. I've a pre verto clutch on my 1330, with an orange diaphragm. When I removed the engine I noticed it had a verto flywheel bolt. I changed the bolt to the bigger pre verto bolt, but now the clutch pedal doesn't fully depress unless it has no fluid. It's also got a new pre verto slave cylinder. I've taken it all out, and the pedal full depresses, and the master cylinder also fully pushes in on the bench. It's only once it's bled. I'm wondering whether the flywheel bolt is now stopping the clutch fully disengaging? I just wasn't sure it was right having a verto bolt holding on a pre verto flywheel.

Any help is much appreciated!

Alex

It will be something else as the only “real” difference is the welded on lock tab.

#3 miniman86

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:38 PM

I just wondered if it was that bolt as it's physically a lot bigger. And I can see the clutch half disengaging through the starter motor hole. Then it stops. I may swap back to the old slave cylinder

#4 nicklouse

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:54 PM

How much movement at the slave pushrod?

#5 miniman86

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 04:56 PM

About 0.4 inches, which isn't enough. It's as though something is physically stopping the movement. The pedal is still around half an inch from being all the way down

#6 nicklouse

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 05:01 PM

Worn pins and parts including where the pedal connects to the slave.

#7 miniman86

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 05:29 PM

All clevis pins have been checked. Clutch arm is a few years old also. New clevis pin in clutch pedal linkage to master cylinder. It seems as though it cannot push the slave cylinder far enough out before it bottoms out

#8 miniman86

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 05:38 PM

I have disconnected the slave from the clutch arm, and still have the same issue. Pedal bottoms out before it gets to full travel.

#9 nicklouse

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 05:46 PM

pull the rubber off. and see if it is bottoming out on the C clip. if it is then the 7/16AF bolt is too far out. so you cant make use of the available travel. you will most likely need to bleed some fluid out to get the piston to retract fully.



#10 mab01uk

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 10:15 PM

If everything is fitted and adjusted correctly you will need to eliminate any wear in the clutch arm, plunger and pivots area.

Similar problems below quoted from the Mk1 Forum:-
“If there is any wear on the clutch arm ball it will have a big impact on the operation of the clutch and also it depends on how much wear there is to the hole in the plunger that the ball pushes against.
These two things are the most commonly overlooked problem areas on clutches. You need a minimum 1/2" and preferably 5/8" movement of the Arm at the Clutch Slave cylinder Pushrod.
But don't ignore a worn ball on the clutch lever or ANY wear in any of the axis holes in the push rod or clutch arm. Replacing or repairing any worn components of the Mini clutch operating system is vital to ensure a good clutch. Even a small amount of wear in a clevis pin can have quite a dramatic effect.”

“Gear selection was temperamental and latterly had become hard and difficult to engage – as though there was insufficient throw of the clutch lever/arm (2A 3518). The outward throw of the clutch arm via the push rod and hydraulics should be 15mm or 5/8” or .625”

“After getting the engine in the clutch didn’t disengage properly. It was running out of stroke in the slave cylinder - this was due to wear in the plunger and clutch arm. I’d used reasonably good condition used parts but there was too much wear to work with this engine. Changing over the plunger took a couple of hours on Saturday but the outcome was definitely worth it!”

 






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