20 replies to this topic

[duffdub]

Can the lifters be removed from the top of the block without removing the engine? I’ve got the head off and have tried using a magnet to pull them out, which doesn’t seem to work.

[GraemeC]

No, they won’t come through the block face.

On blocks with tappet chest covers on the back side (small bore and Cooper S large bore) they can be removed through those.

Edited by GraemeC, 08 June 2020 - 06:18 AM.

[duffdub]

Can you please explain why?

[Spider]

Do you know what type of engine you have ?

 

Maybe post up the prefix from the Engine number or some photos ?

 

Some of the Cam Follower are removable from the side of the block (and in a Mini, this is at the back of the engine), and on the 1275 Engines (except the 60's Cooper S Blocks), you need to take the engine out, split it off the gearbox, remove the Cam and then you can pull the Cam Followers out from underneath.

 

None will come out through the deck.  The hole in the deck is circa 7/16" in dia and the Cam Followers are circa 7/8" in dia.

[GraemeC]

Can you please explain why?

Because they’re bigger than the hole.

[duffdub]

Do you know what type of engine you have ?

Maybe post up the prefix from the Engine number or some photos ?

Some of the Cam Follower are removable from the side of the block (and in a Mini, this is at the back of the engine), and on the 1275 Engines (except the 60's Cooper S Blocks), you need to take the engine out, split it off the gearbox, remove the Cam and then you can pull the Cam Followers out from underneath.

None will come out through the deck. The hole in the deck is circa 7/16" in dia and the Cam Followers are circa 7/8" in dia.

It’s a 1275. Trying to repair a clacking sound. Head is being reconditioned and installing new push rods. I was hoping to replace lifters too.

[GraemeC]

Unless it is a proper Cooper S block (which I'll stick my neck out and say is unlikely) then the only way to replace the followers is to take the engine out, take it off the gear box, take off the timing gears and remove the cam.

[duffdub]

Unless it is a proper Cooper S block (which I'll stick my neck out and say is unlikely) then the only way to replace the followers is to take the engine out, take it off the gear box, take off the timing gears and remove the cam.

Yeah it’s not a cooper s. And I don’t have the equipment to take the engine out. Here’s hoping the reconditioned head stops the noise.

[wile e coyote]

It's incredibly difficult to make a definitive diagnosis of the "clacking sound" being attributable to your lifters as I'd assume they're all the same age and state of wear..... on a rudimentary level if all the valve adjustments when back together are identical then I'd suspect lifters not the issue . Flaws can be anywhere in the valvetrain from camshaft up and apparent noises are not always where the issue is.....

Not quite sure why your'e replacing pushrods the're rarely problematic if straight, but relatively cheap so why not? Whilst you're getting head refurbed don't forget one of the most important parts - rocker gear wear here is a nailed on cause for rattling  - and one of the easiest cheap fixes going - if the rocker pads are ok renew the rocker shaft...(personally speaking whilst at it I'd renew the timing chain & tensioner  if at all suspect / aged too)

 

I'd just do that and put it back together, adjust, check the timing  use an engine flush and then renew the oil....and see what happens - if your issue still exists then all you've lost is a bit of time and head gasket set  and oil /  coolant and you'll have to have the engine out  & split to diagnose further...

 

Fingers crossed but OP it would perhaps help to help you if you expanded on issue a bit - was there a known problem with the head before deciding to refurb it ? How many miles had the engine done? Has it been serviced regularly (the latter can make a remarkable impact on the service life of the engine.....)

[duffdub]

It's incredibly difficult to make a definitive diagnosis of the "clacking sound" being attributable to your lifters as I'd assume they're all the same age and state of wear..... on a rudimentary level if all the valve adjustments when back together are identical then I'd suspect lifters not the issue . Flaws can be anywhere in the valvetrain from camshaft up and apparent noises are not always where the issue is.....
Not quite sure why your'e replacing pushrods the're rarely problematic if straight, but relatively cheap so why not? Whilst you're getting head refurbed don't forget one of the most important parts - rocker gear wear here is a nailed on cause for rattling - and one of the easiest cheap fixes going - if the rocker pads are ok renew the rocker shaft...(personally speaking whilst at it I'd renew the timing chain & tensioner if at all suspect / aged too)

I'd just do that and put it back together, adjust, check the timing use an engine flush and then renew the oil....and see what happens - if your issue still exists then all you've lost is a bit of time and head gasket set and oil / coolant and you'll have to have the engine out & split to diagnose further...

Fingers crossed but OP it would perhaps help to help you if you expanded on issue a bit - was there a known problem with the head before deciding to refurb it ? How many miles had the engine done? Has it been serviced regularly (the latter can make a remarkable impact on the service life of the engine.....)

I’m replacing the push rods because they look a bit worn, and yes they are cheap to replace. My thinking is, if it’s taken apart and the part is accessible just replace it.

The entire rocker assembly is going to be replaced. No apparent issues with the head other than it being old and obviously needing a clean up. I sent it off to 7enterprises to have it reconditioned.

I imported the car from Scotland to the US. The previous owner claimed him and a friend rebuilt the engine. The mileage is unknown. Regular service on the car is unknown. According to log book it’s had five previous owners.

The car is a 1991 Mini Cooper 1275cc with HIF38 carb.

[nicklouse]

The new push rods are not as good as the old ones. If the old ones are straight they are ok to use.

[duffdub]

The new push rods are not as good as the old ones. If the old ones are straight they are ok to use.

What is your logic behind that? I’m trying to learn everything I can so any info is great.

I’ve bought these
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Edited by duffdub, 08 June 2020 - 02:19 PM.

[Icey]

 

The new push rods are not as good as the old ones. If the old ones are straight they are ok to use.

What is your logic behind that? I’m trying to learn everything I can so any info is great.

I’ve bought these
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

Generally (but not always), OEM is better built than aftermarket. There are exceptions of course but if an OEM part is still serviceable I'd tend to stick with it rather than replace 'just because'.

What you're also doing is introducing a load of variables without knowing what the problem is. Before you start fixing things, you need to know what it is that needs fixing. Firing the cash-canon at the problem just leads to a more expensive problem.

 

So, the question is, what have you done to determine where the noise is coming from? A 'clacking' noise could be anything from a busted fuel pump through to knackered big-end bearings.

Edited by Icey, 08 June 2020 - 04:05 PM.

[nicklouse]

 

The new push rods are not as good as the old ones. If the old ones are straight they are ok to use.

What is your logic behind that? I’m trying to learn everything I can so any info is great.

I’ve bought these
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

something read somewhere about them not being as good and being heavier.

 

and those ones nah would not bother with them.

[Spider]

The new push rods are not as good as the old ones. If the old ones are straight they are ok to use.

 

I too reuse the old ones.

 

They do wear a little on the lower end that goes in to the Cam Follower, they get a small 'pip' on them, which is best ground off.