32 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

So I have successfully stripped my Gearbox (as in taken it apart) and once it's all cleaned up I'll be rebuilding it.

 

1. Oil or Lube - When building the Gearbox should I use Engine Build Lube on all the gears / bearings or Engine Oil?

 

2. Fitting the Double Roller and 1st Motion Bearing - what is the correct way to fit these two main bearings, having watched the MiniMania series of videos in this one he punches them in with a large steel punch and hammer. He is rather heavy handed in all of his videos but should they be fitted this way or pressed in somehow? If punched in, he punches the inner part of the bearing - is this correct?

 

3. Securing The Idler Bearing - In a thread I found on here somewhere, @Guess-Works.com advises using Loctite on the Idler Bearing as they have a tendency to wander. What type of Loctite? (I have Loctite 243 IIRC)   

[nicklouse]

3 they are held in place with C clips. on mine was.

i guess yours is later one with the bigger bearing?

 

either or or both for lubing.

 

gentle tapping. try watch the MED videos.

[floormanager]

My experience:-

1) Oil

2) the bearings are not that tight, gentle tapping with a punch will suffice.  If the 1st motion shaft bearing stops going in, you've got it twisted.  Gently knock it back out and try again.

3) Idle gear bearings are a push fit.  For the flywheel housing, I freeze the bearing and warm the housing in the oven (100C).  The bearing will almost fall in.  I've not loc-tited them before as They are buggers to get out!  The gearbox one I wind in with a stud bar and some sockets.

 

Paul

[GraemeC]

1) I tend to use plenty of oil - build lube will work but might make the synchros grab a bit whilst you're turning it by hand and then you'll think something is wrong.

2) Gently, but firmly tap the outer race, alternating between 12, 3, 6, & 9 o'clock.  Don't be too heavy handed with it though.

3) I've never used loctite on the idler bearings, but if John does then I doubt it will do any harm.  If they do walk, they can't go far and if they're loose enough to walk about I doubt they'd do much damage.

 

Nick beat me!

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks guys, I’ll watch the MED stuff, the old fella on MiniMania proper belts them in and with an expensive bearing I was sure that was not the way!!
On my A+ the 1st Motion Bearing is gels in with a very large Circlip but not on the double roller. This one sits up against a recess.

[GraemeC]

Nick said circlip for the idler bearings, not the double roller

[JonnyAlpha]

Just a thought, do you need a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the 1st motion shaft?

[nicklouse]

The small one?

 

http://www.theminifo...-shaft-bearing/

Edited by nicklouse, 12 May 2020 - 12:23 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

The small one?

 

http://www.theminifo...-shaft-bearing/

 

No - I got that off using a selection of screwdrivers on either side

The one that is held in with the large circlip and comes out with the 1st Motion Shaft.

[alex-95]

This is how I done it using a slide hammer, first one using a starter motor bendix spring compressor and the second a nut welded to a tube with the thread of the slide hammer in the other end.

 

 

 

[imack]

I just gently drift them out from inside the box. Awkward initially but once they start moving I keep pushing the input shaft back into the box which gives more room to tap the bearing out.

[JonnyAlpha]

As the First Motion shaft was already out I managed to rest the bearing in a vice and a couple of taps using a brass punch on the shaft and it started to move.

 

 

Job done

 

Started to clean up the parts using White Spirit and sort out what needs replacing Most of it looks OK. I have a rebuild kit so all of the bearings will get swapped out.

 

Some parts look like they are tarnished but it could be that the original covering has come off in places, such as the reverse gear and the inside of the Synchro Hub:

 

 

Compared to the Layshaft:

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 14 May 2020 - 09:40 AM.

[GraemeC]

Being a Metro gear set (signified by the double groove) it is wide ratio - make sure you keep all the corresponding gears together, even the input gear is different to a Mini one having one less tooth.

 

You might want to decide if you want that wide ratio in your Mini - it was more for economy than anything else.  However I know Moke Spider likes this arrangement (but might fit a different FD to adapt it?)

[JonnyAlpha]

@GraemeC ah didn’t know that, I have changed the Diff though from the stock 2.95 to a 3.44.
3.44 was the preferred ratio for intended driving but how will that be affected with one less tooth on the input gear?

[nicklouse]

@GraemeC ah didn’t know that, I have changed the Diff though from the stock 2.95 to a 3.44.
3.44 was the preferred ratio for intended driving but how will that be affected with one less tooth on the input gear?

Put the info into the guessworks calculator and see

 

http://www.guess-wor.../Tech/ratio.htm