122 replies to this topic

[IronmanG]

It would be close enough though. We are talking tolerances here. If my torque wrench is plus minus 2% I would be amazed

[Spider]

Guys, do you mind if I split this discussion ?

 

The initial part was relevant to the title, however this last half has been about different techniques of torquing fasteners.

[Pete649]

Guys, do you mind if I split this discussion ?

 

The initial part was relevant to the title, however this last half has been about different techniques of torquing fasteners.

 

I think that this has been off the original topic for quite a bit

[Spider]

Guys, do you mind if I split this discussion ?

 

The initial part was relevant to the title, however this last half has been about different techniques of torquing fasteners.

 

Since opening my trap and offering to do this, I've just found out this is beyond my reach !

[Ethel]

It would be close enough though. We are talking tolerances here. If my torque wrench is plus minus 2% I would be amazed

The difference could easily be 25%.

 

I'm just trying to take the opportunity to up our collective engineering game - I had to look up coefficient figures to answer the question for myself.

 

It's the reason top end suppliers like ARP specify lubricants as they reduce the discrepancy considerably. But, of course, they'd also greatly reduce the torque specified for dry fasteners, so don't oil yer threads unless your workshop manual says so.

[Spider]

 

It would be close enough though. We are talking tolerances here. If my torque wrench is plus minus 2% I would be amazed

The difference could easily be 25%.

 

I'm just trying to take the opportunity to up our collective engineering game - I had to look up coefficient figures to answer the question for myself.

 

It's the reason top end suppliers like ARP specify lubricants as they reduce the discrepancy considerably. But, of course, they'd also greatly reduce the torque specified for dry fasteners, so don't oil yer threads unless your workshop manual says so.

 

 

Also, bear in mind that tightening fasteners with a torque wrench has an accuracy of +/- 20%.

[sonscar]

Blacksmith here;its a big nut with lockwasher,I crank it up with an adjustable.Reprehensible I know.Steve..

[fokko]

 

If using an open end spanner/wrench, you can get a decent torque near enough by first practicing with a double nut using a bench vice and your existing torque wrench....hold one end of double nut with the torque wrench, other with the open end and learn what the 60-70 ft-lbs feels like. Repeat on the ball joint.

There are also tricks like taking an open end or combo open end/closed end spanner and using a suitable nut on the other end to then connect the torque wrench to. If you keep it at 90 degrees to the ball joint then the length of the spanner does not change the effective torque at the torque wrench end. Here's a snazzy Motion Pro tool for this:


https://www.motionpr...dapter-08-0380/

 

This is a very nice solution! Only: it will not work, because it is not rated for sizes we need to use here. Balljoint cups are 1-1/2" and this tool is rated for a maximum of 3/4". I have ordered a combination spanner 1-1/2" (open ended & ring) and I'll check if I can build my own solution using a 1-1/2" nut welded to something I can fix to my torque wrench (probably an old socket)... That nut should then fit in the ring end of the spanner...

Edited by fokko, 14 September 2020 - 02:51 PM.

[GraemeC]

So effectively making your own crows foot spanner, which I mentioned earlier:

https://www.ebay.co....NIAAOSwjT5dXEcs

Edited by GraemeC, 14 September 2020 - 02:57 PM.

[fokko]

So effectively making your own crows foot spanner, which I mentioned earlier:

https://www.ebay.co....NIAAOSwjT5dXEcs

 

Errr, yes... Right... Thanks for the reminder! I now ordered this one as well . I will need the other spanner anyway, but this is a better solution. Thanks for the heads-up!

[paulrockliffe]

I did mine with an adjustable in the end, just had to buy a new one as my biggest was 1mm too small.  No one has too many tools, so it's fine.

[Spider]

I have a confession here to make. Elsewhere (maybe in this thread ?) I mentioned I have been using an Open Ended Ring Spanner for some time now to do Ball Joints with, as I personally find I can get a better and safer purchase of the Spanner on the narrow hex of the Ball Joints. In doing so, I am not using a Torque Wrench, as rough as it is, I'm only doing them by 'feel'. Touch wood, I haven't had an issue doing them this way. I'm not saying that Torquing them is rubbish nor am I suggesting that this is the way they should be done, I'm only putting it out there what I've been doing.

 

I'll add here, that while I do fit the Locktab, I also use Loctite on them, and bend up only one part of the Locktab, not to lock the joint, but as a Tell-tale if it's coming loose.

[IntMilkBrilliant]

I updated the website today with a basic guide.
Have been really busy, sorry.

http://classicminisj...ball-joint-kit/

Oh great, thanks. I was actually going to email David to ask how best to fit them as - surprise surprise - when my socket arrived yesterday it doesn't fit over the spring. Mind you that video isn't a great help as it quotes the higher torque figure required for the standard ball joints and he torques them up with a spanner, so he's not really got a clue what torque they're set to. Perhaps I just need to get a feel with the wrench and spanner them on tight, I can see that it matters a huge amount on these so long as it's tight enough.

Edited by IntMilkBrilliant, 15 September 2020 - 01:42 PM.

[paulrockliffe]

Hi David, thanks for that.  So the main thing is the boot can come off to fit, so that's great.  Are there any top-tips for removing the blue clip and is it worthwhile supplying them without the boot installed to make installation a bit simpler?

[IntMilkBrilliant]

You can easily remove it with the retaining clip on. Once the dust boot has been removed, simply remove the clip. Re-attaching the retaining clip once on the hub is fiddly, but once you do one it's not too difficult. The rubber boot is very robust too. I've pulled, stabbed and generally abused them and haven't managed to rip them yet.

Re spare dust boots, we have high quality OEM boots too but the dust boot is different. One to follow up on for a line of spares