Thanks to all-stay safe
Jerry
Edited by croc7, 03 April 2020 - 05:40 AM.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 05:34 AM
Edited by croc7, 03 April 2020 - 05:40 AM.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:19 AM
Jerry, of those commonly available, yes, that would be the process if you wanted to lap them in. If using a drill, only spin slowly.
When I was fitting these joints, I gotta say, I didn't lap them in. I did do one set (out of a Unipart Box) and haven't bothered since, but I no longer use these now.
For Grease, I'd suggest a good Molly Grease, same as you would use in the CV Joints, but other than the Ball Joints, don't use it on any other suspension part that you can grease.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:26 AM
I do not see the point in lapping ball joints, after all they only rotate a possible maximum of 90 degrees and spend the majority of time in a fixed ahead position.
If it is a quality problem then this must be taken up with the suppliers and manufacturers. Do not buy poor quality cheap junk.
Edited by Rorf, 03 April 2020 - 07:27 AM.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 08:36 AM
What do you use now Spider?
Posted 03 April 2020 - 08:44 AM
What do you use now Spider?
Mostly old joints that are still serviceable, I've been raiding all my old hubs that are laying about, but getting to the bottom of that barrel.
I have a set of the Japanese 'OEM Type' in a Mate's Moke on trial. These appear to be at least equal, if not better than the original BMC / Leyland ones (that were made by TRW).
I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 09:57 AM
I do have a few NOS ones I've managed to acquire and have looked at re-use, but I'm always nervous of now knowing just how worn they are and how much hardening is left.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 11:21 AM
Posted 03 April 2020 - 12:57 PM
I do not see the point in lapping ball joints, after all they only rotate a possible maximum of 90 degrees and spend the majority of time in a fixed ahead position.
If it is a quality problem then this must be taken up with the suppliers and manufacturers. Do not buy poor quality cheap junk.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 02:21 PM
I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.
Wow! I didn't know such a thing existed, but I do now
I would definitely consider these in the future. It would be interesting to see how they last long term.
Posted 03 April 2020 - 06:19 PM
I do have a few NOS ones I've managed to acquire and have looked at re-use, but I'm always nervous of now knowing just how worn they are and how much hardening is left.
Graeme, if they show any wear or are scored, I don't use them. I find often the Lower Joints are recyclable.
I might have a spec somewhere, but off hand, I can say the hardening is fairly deep on these and is very hard. Try a file on one next time you have one to hand, then try the same on one of the current new ones..
Posted 03 April 2020 - 10:15 PM
I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.
What do you use now Spider?
Posted 04 April 2020 - 02:13 AM
They are the same idea as the Metro ones and the ones some suppliers are providing to drop the lower ball joint position. But these are better quality.
i am still on my Rover ones.
Posted 04 April 2020 - 04:25 AM
Posted 04 April 2020 - 05:02 AM
I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.What do you use now Spider?
I'd never even heard of such a concept either. Do you have a link to then Chris? I'm not in the market for ball joints though mine are getting on 30k miles now...
Hey Tim,
This is what they look like mate;-
They come as you see them, with the Locktab and the Hex Key. They screw straight on the hub in place of your existing Ball Joint, though, they don't come with a plug for the Grease Nipple Hole. I wouldn't leave that open. Some grease is recommended in to the socket of the Hub before screwing these in. The Hex Key, while a nice touch, I don't feel is needed.
You can see the seat on the assembly is a type of plastic, as they are in nearly every other car. The boot is held in place with spring clips too, which is a nice touch.
I'd say, the basic Joint is from another vehicle with a new body made to suit our Hubs.
For what they are, while seeming expensive, (off hand I'm paying around $160 AUD including freight for a set of 4), compared to any other car on the road, I think they are quite fairly priced. I'm buying them direct from a local fella in Japan and sorry, he's not on the web.
Posted 04 April 2020 - 09:10 AM
He is now
Lots of nice bits
http://classicminisj...ball-joint-kit/
Edited by no66, 04 April 2020 - 09:11 AM.
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