37 replies to this topic

[croc7]

Now, with plenty of time on my hands, I plan on replacing ball joints. On this forum, I’ve read that lapping the joint makes shimming easier. So my questions are 1) lap all three components; cup, ball pin and retainer as an assembly? 2) use fine valve lapping paste? 3) OK to use drill motor or lap the parts by hand? 4) to insure grease passage, cut a shallow groove on opposite sides of the ball pin or is a single groove sufficient?
Thanks to all-stay safe
Jerry

Edited by croc7, 03 April 2020 - 05:40 AM.

[Spider]

Jerry, of those commonly available, yes, that would be the process if you wanted to lap them in. If using a drill, only spin slowly.

 

When I was fitting these joints, I gotta say, I didn't lap them in. I did do one set (out of a Unipart Box) and haven't bothered since, but I no longer use these now.

 

For Grease, I'd suggest a good Molly Grease, same as you would use in the CV Joints, but other than the Ball Joints, don't use it on any other suspension part that you can grease.

[Rorf]

I do not see the point in lapping ball joints, after all they only rotate a possible maximum of 90 degrees and spend the majority of time in a fixed ahead position.

 

If it is a quality problem then this must be taken up with the suppliers and manufacturers. Do not buy poor quality cheap junk.

Edited by Rorf, 03 April 2020 - 07:27 AM.

[GraemeC]

What do you use now Spider?

[Spider]

What do you use now Spider?

 

Mostly old joints that are still serviceable, I've been raiding all my old hubs that are laying about, but getting to the bottom of that barrel.

I have a set of the Japanese 'OEM Type' in a Mate's Moke on trial. These appear to be at least equal, if not better than the original BMC / Leyland ones (that were made by TRW).

 

I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.

[GraemeC]

I do have a few NOS ones I've managed to acquire and have looked at re-use, but I'm always nervous of now knowing just how worn they are and how much hardening is left.

[Tomm]

I thought this ball joint lapping lark may have been a load of rubbish, I remembered reading an article in a magazine a number of years ago but never saw much more about it.

I got some lapping compound on my mini spares joints and lapped one set and not another, I then tried to identify which one had been lapped out of a group that hadn’t. I found it every time and found it easier to set up. Where I noticed the difference I have decided to keep doing it.

My ball joints had a recess in them already which allowed the grease to flow and this was visible once lapped. I would have thought this recess was from the manufacturing process, but it seems to serve the purpose well when pumped full of grease.

There are far more knowledgeable people than me on here regards these things, so please take everyone’s advice into account.

[Algordo1100]

I do not see the point in lapping ball joints, after all they only rotate a possible maximum of 90 degrees and spend the majority of time in a fixed ahead position.

If it is a quality problem then this must be taken up with the suppliers and manufacturers. Do not buy poor quality cheap junk.

Wouldn't they also be moving small amounts in the other plane? And a lot faster as the suspension continuously moves up and down whilst traveling forward. I mean if they weren't then your tyres would be losing road contact? Or the ball joint stem bending.?
Seems to me this movement (or lack of) might be what would cause stress failure over time in a too tight or malfunctioning ball joint. Rather than the slower, less frequent rotation.
Could be wrong.

[Pete649]

I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.

 

Wow! I didn't know such a thing existed, but I do now

 

I would definitely consider these in the future. It would be interesting to see how they last long term.

[Spider]

I do have a few NOS ones I've managed to acquire and have looked at re-use, but I'm always nervous of now knowing just how worn they are and how much hardening is left.

 

Graeme, if they show any wear or are scored, I don't use them. I find often the Lower Joints are recyclable.

 

I might have a spec somewhere, but off hand, I can say the hardening is fairly deep on these and is very hard. Try a file on one next time you have one to hand, then try the same on one of the current new ones..

[Mini Manannán]

What do you use now Spider?

I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.

I'd never even heard of such a concept either. Do you have a link to then Chris? I'm not in the market for ball joints though mine are getting on 30k miles now...

[nicklouse]

They are the same idea as the Metro ones and the ones some suppliers are providing to drop the lower ball joint position. But these are better quality.

 

i am still on my Rover ones.

[timmy850]

Here is one place to buy the Japanese kits: 

http://classicminisj...ball-joint-kit/

[Spider]

 

 

What do you use now Spider?

I've also the Japanese Maintenance free types here, I've on sold many sets of these to friends, I've kept one set back to try myself. Early days yet, but seem promising.

I'd never even heard of such a concept either. Do you have a link to then Chris? I'm not in the market for ball joints though mine are getting on 30k miles now...

 

 

Hey Tim,

 

This is what they look like mate;-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They come as you see them, with the Locktab and the Hex Key. They screw straight on the hub in place of your existing Ball Joint, though, they don't come with a plug for the Grease Nipple Hole. I wouldn't leave that open. Some grease is recommended in to the socket of the Hub before screwing these in. The Hex Key, while a nice touch, I don't feel is needed.

 

You can see the seat on the assembly is a type of plastic, as they are in nearly every other car. The boot is held in place with spring clips too, which is a nice touch.

 

I'd say, the basic Joint is from another vehicle with a new body made to suit our Hubs.

 

For what they are, while seeming expensive, (off hand I'm paying around $160 AUD including freight for a set of 4), compared to any other car on the road, I think they are quite fairly priced. I'm buying them direct from a local fella in Japan and sorry, he's not on the web.

[no66]

He is now

Lots of nice bits

http://classicminisj...ball-joint-kit/

http://classicminisjapan.com/

Edited by no66, 04 April 2020 - 09:11 AM.