18 replies to this topic

[Indy495]

What a day of highs and lows.

 

first run out on the road for (I thought at the time) finished 1275. 
 

after a 5 minute run we stopped and noticed an oil leak. We returned home disheartened and started to examine what had happened.

 

the engine had a top end rebuild by my son and I with new gaskets when done all was torqued up as per the Haynes manual. 
 

The oil appears to have been leaking around the head gasket, and when running we saw a bubbling next the the engine number plate 

 

we have dismantled the top end and photo graphed what we found. 

being a novice to mechanicals.........How do I fix this problem. What do you reckon caused it. 
so disappointed, but determined to get it right. 

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[alex-95]

Did you run it up to temperature, let it cool and re-torque the head down afterwards?  It could be the head or block isn't flat. Is that a standard copper gasket? These are the best http://www.minispare...|Back to search

Edited by alex-95, 07 March 2020 - 05:02 PM.

[Steve220]

Ditch the copper gasket and get a BK450.

[TheFabMini]

Agreed with the above and change from copper to composite gasket. From my understanding copper is very good but only on perfect truly flat surfaces. The composite ones allow a little more tolerance. With copper I get a coolant weep around the same place as your leak. Changed it to a composite one and it’s been fine now for over 2000 miles

[Indy495]

Thank you all for your help.

 

i will do a clean up and get the better gasket. 

 

Did you run it up to temperature, let it cool and re-torque the head down afterwards?  It could be the head or block isn't flat. Is that a standard copper gasket? These are the best http://www.minispare...|Back to search

No we didn’t do as you suggested. I will do so next time. 
thanks. 
 

[sonikk4]

Yup as mentioned, bin the copper gasket and get a Payen one. Had the same problem on my 998 even after a full heat cycle and re torque it still seeped.

 

I did run it like that for a while until i got a replacement gasket from Minispares. Job done and never leaked again.

 

My block and head was checked for true as well with no issues. By the sounds of things if the head is freshly skimmed and the block face as well then the copper one would work??? but i would not put that to the test.

[DeadSquare]

I spread Hylomar on both sides of my head gaskets, and let it dry well.

[Indy495]

I spread Hylomar on both sides of my head gaskets, and let it dry well.

 Thanks for the advice.

 

if I get the better gasket, is it worth doing this, and if so which specific hylomar would you use.

[DeadSquare]

Blue Hylomar..

 

I don't smarm it all over, just round the cylinders.

 

"Is it worth doing" ?...........How can one know that with careful preparation, all might have been well without it.

 

I tried it for a guy whose gasket was blowing in practice, torqued it down an extra 20lbs and it held for the race, so, belt and braces style, I always used it.

[sonikk4]

There is no need for hylomar, as long as both mating faces are clean and true then a decent Payen gasket will be all you need. Never used any type of sealant on a cylinder head.

[timmy850]

I also run it for the first few times with straight water, then drain and add coolant. The gasket manufacturer suggests doing the same, and also if you have an issue you don’t waste coolant.

[GraemeC]

One of those subjects where you’ll get lots of advice and ‘tips’, some (many?) of which will no doubt contradict  each other!

 

I always run the engine without coolant after fitting a new head gasket - not for long, just enough that the head is warm to the touch. Then when stone cold again, re-torque then and coolant. Then after a run up the road re-torque again.

 

(and by re-torque I mean individually slacken and re-tighten each head nut.)

Edited by GraemeC, 07 March 2020 - 10:52 PM.

[Magneto]

Clean, and then clean it some more. I usually pull the studs and find that the top thread has pulled up a bit - if so use either a wide flat file to take the edges off or a chamfer bit. Then put a straight edge on it and check it to be sure it's flat, if so -  clean it again - both head and block. Then torque, run up to temp, let cool overnight and retorque. Should be good to go.

Edited by Magneto, 07 March 2020 - 11:02 PM.

[timmy850]

This is from the ACL website. I’ve never had an issue doing it this way, of course just as many people have no issues going straight for coolant
http://www.acl.com.a...87?OpenDocument

Q15. Should I add coolant to my newly rebuilt engine?

Answer
Modern high quality coolants are an invaluable necessity in any modern motor. It helps prevent the coolant freezing and boiling and reduces the potential for corrosion of engine components.

The question is often asked: "Should I use ethylene glycol to my newly reconditioned engine?"

Here are a few facts:
The ethylene glycol molecule is a lot more flexible than the water molecule and is therefore able to flow where water can not. This could be along a machine marks in the cylinder head or block.
New generation head gaskets such as MonoTorque have a coating that creates a "cold seal". This cold seal will fill most crevices, although may not get to bottom of any coarse machining grooves.
The temperature created when the new engine is running, allows the microscopic sealing of the head gasket surface coating into surface irregularities.
The fibre construction of some head gasket materials acts as a wick for the glycol to be drawn along until it reaches the exterior edge of the gasket, leaving an unsightly stain along the engine and a loss of coolant.
Materials used in head gaskets today are less likely to "wick" than the past generation materials used.
High quality surface coating used in head gasket manufacturing also provides protection against the ethylene glycol permeating the gasket material.

With these facts in mind the recommended good practice should be:
Fill the cooling system with distilled water.
Start engine, allow motor to reach normal operating temperature carry out standard engine adjustments/checks, test run vehicle.
Stop engine. Allow engine to cool down until the radiator cap can be safely removed and add a good quality coolant (including inhibitor) according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

[Indy495]

Thanks to one and all for your time and info. 
 

I shall follow the guide lines after a good clean. I’ve already ordered the quality gasket that has been recommended , so I’m looking forward to attempt the procedure again.

 

you live and learn.................

 

Ill update this thread when I’ve tested our mini again.

Edited by Indy495, 08 March 2020 - 08:36 AM.