
Electric Pump Or No?
#1
Posted 04 March 2020 - 08:15 AM
#2
Posted 04 March 2020 - 08:30 AM
#3
Posted 04 March 2020 - 09:09 AM
I would go with an electric pump personally, there seems to be a number of pump faliures on recent years, either from the lever coming off and ending up in the sump, or from the seals going and dumopinf fuel into the oil, the latter could be either poor rubber (which seems to be an increasing issue across the board) or related to the addtion of ethanol into fuel. Either way I's rather replace a remote electric pump.
also with an electric pump, it will prime the carb without turning the engine, and you can use it to drain the tank etc.
#4
Posted 04 March 2020 - 09:16 AM
The main consideration with an electric pump is you can move the fuel lines away from the exhaust.
#5
Posted 04 March 2020 - 10:15 AM
Facet are cheaper and so if you need a replacement they are going to be easiest to replace but I've heard they can be a bit noisy so you may need to isolate them from the body work properly. They also come in different pressures so pick the right one. SU would be "period" fitting but the parts are getting expensive.
And again you can get push (tank end fitting) or pull (engine bay) types and they don't tend to like working as well at the wrong end!
I'd definitely fit a filter between pump and carb .. there is a filter mesh in the pump connection to the tank on mine.
Some of the "new" mechanical pumps are pretty badly made ... one of our Classic Car Restorers in the UK would prefer to rebuild an old one than use new .. some don't seal properly, the thread for the top cap are poor and strip easier if even slightly over-tightened (soft alloy), the diaphragms are weak and tear quickly, and he's found some where the operating arm doesn't actually reach the cam lob! Plus they are often a PITA to remove and replace ..
#6
Posted 04 March 2020 - 06:10 PM
Facet are cheaper and so if you need a replacement they are going to be easiest to replace but I've heard they can be a bit noisy so you may need to isolate them from the body work properly.
I had a Facet pump (not on a mini). It was isolated but was still noisy. At least you could tell it was working OK though. It was a competition car so didn't really matter. Couldn't hear it with the engine running.
#7
Posted 04 March 2020 - 06:17 PM
It has a built in filter and I run a filter king pressure regulator set to 3 1/2 psi on the front bulkhead.
#8
Posted 05 March 2020 - 01:22 PM
Its mounted via rubber mounts to the rear sub frame web on the near side. There's a pre-filter on the pump inlet to prevent crud from the tank getting into the pump.
The outlet feeds twin 11/4" SU carbs via a Filter King filter and fuel pressure regulator.
For safety I've fitted a fuel cut-off inertia switch which cuts the fuel in the event of an accident, managed to get one for a rover 25 off of Ebay. It has an ignition switched supply and yes, you can hearing it running with the engine off but it quietens down once its built up fuel pressure down line. Once the engine is running it can't be heard at all.
I used to like the mechanical pump for simplicity but as others have said, I have experienced a sump/gearbox full of petrol thinned oil due to a diaphragm failure. Needless to say this can be very dangerous!
It's your choice but my vote would be for electric.
Cheers, Steve.
Edited by Stevie W, 05 March 2020 - 01:25 PM.
#9
Posted 05 March 2020 - 02:01 PM
Hello,
I had some problems with the mechanical pumps in the past and was not too happy with the fuel lines close to the heat of the exhaust manifold on the standard setup. So I was facing the same question and decided to change to electrical pump on my Innocenti Cooper (1330cc, twin SU HS4, approx. 75 hp).
I did not go for a Facet pump because of noise concerns (not tested by myself) but decided to use a well proven but non-genuine version of the original SU electrical pump (AUF214MS).
The pump is mounted in the boot on the rear seat wall on rubbers and with fuel filter.
I can hear the pump priming when turning the ignition on - a solid but pleasant "thud, thud, thud" - but only till the engine is started.
I have no long term experience, but so far I am very happy with the setup.
Cheers, Thomba
#10
Posted 06 March 2020 - 07:57 PM
I do a lot of long distance trips and changing a failed mechanical pump on the roadside wouldn't be pleasant. I'm going with an electric pump. Thanks to all for the input.
#11
Posted 06 March 2020 - 11:00 PM
It was on a single track road at the bottom of a small valley ... so reversed up

Edited by gazza82, 06 March 2020 - 11:01 PM.
#12
Posted 07 March 2020 - 03:20 PM
Mount a Morris Minor pump near the wiper motor.
Wire it through the dashboard light switch....................so that you can isolate it.....................but tie a knot in something, or next time you start, you'll be lucky to get more than 100 yards.
#13
Posted 07 March 2020 - 09:09 PM
If I decide to install an electric pump on the rear sub frame or in the boot, what would be a good source of power? I thought about threading a wire from the ignition switch (dash mounted) down and under the carpeting along the inner sill. Is there a cleaner way?
#14
Posted 07 March 2020 - 09:28 PM
The loom goes up the pillar and along the roof, but for simplicity, I'd go in one of the grooves in the floor pan.
#15
Posted 08 March 2020 - 09:50 AM
If I decide to install an electric pump on the rear sub frame or in the boot, what would be a good source of power? I thought about threading a wire from the ignition switch (dash mounted) down and under the carpeting along the inner sill. Is there a cleaner way?
currently doing the same as you,but I am connecting my pump to the fuse box in the engine bay, down the center column under the carpet then to a rover inertia kill switch mounted under my seat then back along the center again and out under the car to the pump. You could run it up the pillar and along the roof but youd have to take the roof lining out for that :/
Im guessing you could also run it under the car along the brake lines/fuel line. Shouldnt be a problem
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