
Fitting Quaife Atb, Should I Upgraded The Drive Shafts?
#16
Posted 07 December 2019 - 09:17 PM
If you don’t realise it’s there, but don’t end up in the scenery, then it’s done it’s job
#17
Posted 19 December 2019 - 09:37 AM
Are you running pot joints or hardy spicer joints?
If you have hardy spicer, just look at uj itself, and replace as they are only £9ea
#18
Posted 05 January 2020 - 05:15 PM
I have just taken my new Quaife ATB out of the box.
When I hold one output shaft should I be able to turn the other by hand?
It seems to be locked solid.
#19
Posted 05 January 2020 - 05:34 PM
I have just taken my new Quaife ATB out of the box.
When I hold one output shaft should I be able to turn the other by hand?
It seems to be locked solid.
Completely normal
#20
Posted 11 January 2020 - 06:30 PM
#21
Posted 11 January 2020 - 07:15 PM
Minispares evolution diff is a plate type diff, you need to add compatible crownwheel and pinion & output shafts and possibly side plates if it requires cooper s type.
Quaife atb can use standard crownwheel and comes with its own output shafts.
ATB and plate type diffs a very different beasts.
Generally ATB for road and plate for competition.
#22
Posted 11 January 2020 - 09:27 PM
http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop
#23
Posted 11 January 2020 - 10:03 PM
It may initially look cheaper but you need to add 2 output shafts (and hardy spicer joints and drive shafts if you don't already have them), lsd crownwheel and pinion ans a pair of cooper S gearbox side plates,and possibly some time clearancing the gearbox and diff case. That little lot is an additional £550 assuming you already have hardy spicer joints and shafts.
The plate type diff is also supposed to be very difficult to drive on the road.
You won't be disappointed with an ATB if it's for road use.
#24
Posted 12 January 2020 - 11:19 AM
I'm sure it would be amazing for Autosolos but not 100% sure about it on the loose stuff..
Thanks, plate doff is a no no then. ATB it is (when I redo the gearbox).
#25
Posted 12 January 2020 - 11:35 AM
ATB is perfect for what you want.
#26
Posted 02 March 2020 - 10:52 AM
I had the suspension all set up, 1.5 camber, 4 caster, and 0.20deg (that's in minutes or 1/4 a degree) tow out,
But under acceleration it's impossible to keep in a straight line.
The tie bar bushes are new (mini spares Evo with purple on the outside)
Any suggestions? Steering rack isn't moving on the body (I've had that before) a d everything else is in perfect condition
It's brilliant in the corners though lol
#27
Posted 02 March 2020 - 11:42 AM
have you set the corner weights?
#28
Posted 02 March 2020 - 11:48 AM
Yeah, Im gonna say corner weights too, as it squats under acceleratation if the corner weights are off then it'll bias the weight and cause this sort of thing, also uneven road surfaces can cause the same, but in that case theres not a lot you can do apart for either hold on tight, or use the force to anticipate it...
On my setup, i added metro steering arms ( but then I am on metro hubs but lets not go there!) the arms are longer and act like a "slow rack" wiving more mechanical advanage. also that was on a pretty pokey turbo motor.
#29
Posted 02 March 2020 - 12:08 PM
As for road surface I had first assumed that's what it was but it's exactly the same on track (Oulton park) so I think we can rule that out?
#30
Posted 02 March 2020 - 08:58 PM
Also, what are the alignment settings on the rear?
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