11 replies to this topic

[miniracer115]

Can anyone give me the dimensions to make up a radius arm reaming tool similar to the factory tool. I bought a short 13/16 ream and want to make it into a proper tool and have access to lathe to do this.
Also I’ve seen that the correct tool have a bush that fits into the roller bearing end to guide the reamer inline. Is the roller bearing fitted first and then the bush fits inside the roller bearing to ream it or do you fit the roller bearing after you have finished reaming.

[alex-95]

I don't have any dimensions but as you say there is a guide, this is in place of the bearing when reaming and then the grease tube goes in then the roller bearing.

[drs]

the tools bush fits on the needle roller bearing end, once you have removed the old needle roller.

 

you fit the new one once you have cleaned out the swarf from the reaming.

 

i hope you got a hand reamer, its tapered, a machine reamer is not and very hard to use by hand.

 

paul

Edited by drs, 26 November 2019 - 11:00 AM.

[Spider]

I made my Pilot from an old Trailing Arm Pin

 

 

 

[Dylpants80]

Can any one tell me What size adjustable reamer is needed for the brass bush?Thanks

[GraemeC]

13/16" as per the first post.

[Dylpants80]

Thanks. And what type of grease should be pumped in with them? Multi purpose?

[sonikk4]

Thanks. And what type of grease should be pumped in with them? Multi purpose?

 

LM grease.

[gaspen]

I made my Pilot from an old Trailing Arm Pin

 

 

 

 

 

It is satisfactorily accurate  ?

 

I bougth one from ebay where the reamer and the pilot screwed together. Unfortunately the thread in the rearmer is "angled" so the two pieces aren't in the same centerline

 

There is a small workshop in my area where the old prof could do it, but I don't know which way to choose

 

Actually I have the old pivots...

 

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[Spider]

It is satisfactorily accurate  ?

 

I bougth one from ebay where the reamer and the pilot screwed together. Unfortunately the thread in the rearmer is "angled" so the two pieces aren't in the same centerline

 

There is a small workshop in my area where the old prof could do it, but I don't know which way to choose

 

Actually I have the old pivots.

 

Whoa !  That's pretty poor !

 

Mine are an interference slip fit, if I had any doubts with it, I wouldn't use it.

 

Any decent machine shop should be able to do them. I have seen them done using a lathe, where the reamer is held in the head-stock chuck and the bearing end of the trialing arm centred on a dead centre of the Tail-stock.

 

While the size of the shaft s 13/16", there does need to be some clearance between that and the bush. I give mine 0.001" over that for clearance.

[gaspen]

 

It is satisfactorily accurate  ?

 

I bougth one from ebay where the reamer and the pilot screwed together. Unfortunately the thread in the rearmer is "angled" so the two pieces aren't in the same centerline

 

There is a small workshop in my area where the old prof could do it, but I don't know which way to choose

 

Actually I have the old pivots.

 

Whoa !  That's pretty poor !

 

Mine are an interference slip fit, if I had any doubts with it, I wouldn't use it.

 

Any decent machine shop should be able to do them. I have seen them done using a lathe, where the reamer is held in the head-stock chuck and the bearing end of the trialing arm centred on a dead centre of the Tail-stock.

 

While the size of the shaft s 13/16", there does need to be some clearance between that and the bush. I give mine 0.001" over that for clearance.

 

 

I see, thanks

 

As I see the interference part of the shaft machined for dimension 'A' , right ?

 

I mean it will allow enough support for the blades on the reamer 

 

Maybe mine has some spare material around the hole to not cut through the slots of the blades.

 

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[Spider]

Yes, that's correct.

Looking at yours here, it might be salvageable, if there's a bit of play in the threads.

 

The mating faces on the end of the reamer and the pilot may not be true. They could be faced in a lathe, then when done up tight, they should pull true.