13 replies to this topic

[markking]

I am in the early stages/contemplating running my battery cable inside the car (the new, fatter exhaust has started melting the insulation) and thought it safe to swap this out and future proof by running a better/thicker cable.

I have looked for a while in the forum but no definitive answer.
My question is:
What thickness cable should I be running?

2awg seems to be the opinion that comes up on google searches and trolling through other forums but nothing specific to Minis.

Is 2awg overkill? (I know the price definitely is but I want the best option and to only do it once)

Preemptive: Getting the minispares replacement is not an option.
Thanks for reading.

[mk1leg]

http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

[markking]

Thanks for reading the post but as I mentioned. The mini spares one is NOT an option.

So the question is still:
Is 2awg correct

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I use the 170A cable from here.  I think 2AWG would be more like the 300A one so should be more than enough.

[Stu1961]

I asked the same question many moons ago and couldn't get a conclusive answer, 2awg is 35mm² I ended up using 4awg which is 25mm2 not sure what size the standard factory cable is but the 25mm² is bigger in cross sectional area.

[markking]

Thanks for the links etc but I am based in New Zealand so shipping from the uk with the extortionate prices of delivery is not an option.

I’m hoping for an answer to my question instead of where to buy.

“More than enough” says I could use the size down and save some $$
Is 170a enough/adequate for future upgrades I’d stereo etc? I’m trying to avoid redoing it again in the future.

Thanks so much for the reply.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

The 170A cable is fine for the starter motor which is the main heavy current user.  As far as future upgrades go 12 volts through a 170 amp cable gives you around 2000 watts to play with.  Whether that's enough depends how big the amplifiers you're thinking of using on your stereo are really.  Apart from the starter, with everything switched on you only have a few 100 watts being consumed on a standard Mini.

[KTS]

35mm/2awg will give less voltage drop to the starter when cranking than the 25mm (power = volts x current, so at high currents small voltage drops can have significant impact on available power)

The longer the cable run the more effect the losses become, so if your battery is in the boot I'd be tempted to go for the 35mm. You could go larger than that but the benefits would be marginal, and the costs a lot higher..

[markking]

Fantastic replies and I think you’ve all explained enough to proceed.

The next logical question is (for budgets sake);
Can I use the power cable (2awg or 4awg) Supplied in amplifier kits?

This is far more budget friendly than the starter cables or marine application cables google has suggested.
Is there a reason the amplifier power cables are so much more reasonably priced?

Edited by markking, 23 October 2019 - 10:43 PM.

[Compdoc]

I ran my battery cable inside and used 4awg (25mm) but purchased the flexible type used for MIG welders and jump leads. This have many more thinner strands which make them much easier to get around tight corners. https://www.ebay.co....3Ex26dCs-JDL8-Q

Not sure if this is the same type as supplied in amplifier kits.

[mk1leg]

Thanks for reading the post but as I mentioned. The mini spares one is NOT an option.

So the question is still:
Is 2awg correct

whats wrong with this

[cal844]

Thanks for reading the post but as I mentioned. The mini spares one is NOT an option.

So the question is still:
Is 2awg correct

whats wrong with this

The OP is in NZ so shipping would be prohibitive

[mk1leg]

 

 

Thanks for reading the post but as I mentioned. The mini spares one is NOT an option.

So the question is still:
Is 2awg correct

whats wrong with this

The OP is in NZ so shipping would be prohibitive

 

postage is not a problem I sent parts to NZ and got there in 2 weeks

[markking]

I have ordered a 4awg amplifier wiring kit and will utilise the power cord from this.

Seems the general consensus is to attach with rubber covered p clips along the passenger side tunnel then up through the bulkhead on the drivers side.

Is it worth changing the “ribbon” earths on the engine and battery with the negative cord that comes with the amplifier kit?
The uninsulated nature of these cables doesn’t give me much confidence but I’m not sure if there’s a benefit/downside to them being uninsulated.

As always really appreciate your guys time and responses.