18 replies to this topic

[sparkymae]

Hello everyone. Can anyone please tell me how and the safest way to remove and replace the lower arm suspension pins. pics if you have any. It's a 1990 998cc carb model, manual. Thanks.

[DeadSquare]

The later (improved ?) bushes were made with a steel tube insert in the rubber.

 

This can rust on to the 'lower arm suspension pin', which restricts the easy removal of the pin from the bush.

 

Workshops, when replacing the bushes,  used to cut through the pin and fit a new one, and if they couldn't get the remains of the pin out, fit a new arm.

 

Without the hub in the way, I have managed to carefully tap the pin/bush/arm out of the subframe and burn the bush out of the arm with a gas torch.

Edited by DeadSquare, 17 August 2019 - 10:46 AM.

[chuee]

 

Without the hub in the way, I have managed to carefully tap the pin/bush/arm out of the subframe and burn the bush out of the arm with a gas torch.

After removing the rubber, then how would the rust-bonded metal sleeve, stuck to the pin be removed? By careful grinding away, followed by cleaning up the pin with a file and polish?

Edited by chuee, 22 August 2024 - 06:35 PM.

[Spider]

 

 

Without the hub in the way, I have managed to carefully tap the pin/bush/arm out of the subframe and burn the bush out of the arm with a gas torch.

After removing the rubber, then how would the rust-bonded metal sleeve, stuck to the pin be removed? By careful grinding away, followed by cleaning up the pin with a file and polish?

 

 

I put the pin in a vice and very carefully file them until the tube is wafer thin, then split them. It's slow and involves sweat, but the pin comes out unscathed.

[nicklouse]

I would be wanting to keep the old ones and reuse them. As the current crop are not the best in shape or material.

[DeadSquare]

I would be wanting to keep the old ones and reuse them. As the current crop are not the best in shape or material.

 

We have to be grateful that parts are still made.

But.

The last one that I burnt out, was during Covid.  The chap came with some bushes that were so slack that if I'd had steel shim, I could have rolled it and tubed them.  

 

[chuee]

 

 

 

Without the hub in the way, I have managed to carefully tap the pin/bush/arm out of the subframe and burn the bush out of the arm with a gas torch.

After removing the rubber, then how would the rust-bonded metal sleeve, stuck to the pin be removed? By careful grinding away, followed by cleaning up the pin with a file and polish?

 

 

I put the pin in a vice and very carefully file them until the tube is wafer thin, then split them. It's slow and involves sweat, but the pin comes out unscathed.

 

That's what I do. I take my jacket off - no sweat.

Edited by chuee, 23 August 2024 - 10:34 AM.

[chuee]

I would be wanting to keep the old ones and reuse them. As the current crop are not the best in shape or material.

Not properly hardened?

Edited by chuee, 23 August 2024 - 10:35 AM.

[chuee]

 

 

I put the pin in a vice and very carefully file them until the tube is wafer thin, then split them. It's slow and involves sweat, but the pin comes out unscathed.

 

I wonder, what effect does a  bush sleeve which becomes rust-bonded to the pin have on the movement of the lower arm;  Does it impede vertical movement at all,  with the rubber bush also bonded to the outer of the metal sleeve having to twist? And if so, possible fatigue of the rubber? 

I mean, if all is well,  is the pivot pin supposed  to rotate within the bush sleeve?

Edited by chuee, 23 August 2024 - 03:03 PM.

[imack]

The flex should only be in the rubber.
If the sleeve is able to rotate then somethings not right.

[nicklouse]

 

I would be wanting to keep the old ones and reuse them. As the current crop are not the best in shape or material.

Not properly hardened?

 

Just poor material and poor shape.

 

 

 

 

I put the pin in a vice and very carefully file them until the tube is wafer thin, then split them. It's slow and involves sweat, but the pin comes out unscathed.

 

I wonder, what effect does a  bush sleeve which becomes rust-bonded to the pin have on the movement of the lower arm;  Does it impede vertical movement at all,  with the rubber bush also bonded to the outer of the metal sleeve having to twist? And if so, possible fatigue of the rubber? 

I mean, if all is well,  is the pivot pin supposed  to rotate within the bush sleeve?

 

If it can rotate you have not tightened things correctly.

 

it is clamped in place. You only tighten it up once the car is on its wheels. There is no surface movement between any parts. It is purely the flex of the rubber. 

[chuee]

The flex should only be in the rubber.
If the sleeve is able to rotate then somethings not right.

Ah, cheers, that's reassuring.  

 

Information in the Rover and Haynes manual  on re-fitting bushes is scant; hard to work out the best way, or what is going on with the fitting.

 

- Do you think its a good idea to assemble the pivot into the bushes with any copper grease, or not then?

 

 

- Are new bushes best  pressed into the arm before inserting the pivot into the bushes, pior to assemblin the arm into the sub-frame?

 

- When inserting the pivot into the bushes in the arm eye,  would there be  some kind of interference or taper  fit... such that when finally torquing up the pivot to the sub-frame, does that bring it all home in a tight fashion?

 

- I take it that the anwer to using rubber grease to assemble the bushes into the arm is a 'NO!' ?

 

cheers,

john

Edited by chuee, 23 August 2024 - 06:37 PM.

[Spider]

As Nick and Imack have mentioned, the sleeves / tubes should be locked on the Pin when the nut on the Pin is done up correctly. 2 of these sleeves are about (or should be !) 15 thou longer than the area of the Pin where they mount, of course, when you put them on with their rubbers, they'll appear much loner again.

 

I do put a very thin lick of grease on the pin, but be sure none is going to end up on the rubber. I only do this so they don't rust.

[chuee]

As Nick and Imack have mentioned, the sleeves / tubes should be locked on the Pin when the nut on the Pin is done up correctly. 2 of these sleeves are about (or should be !) 15 thou longer than the area of the Pin where they mount, of course, when you put them on with their rubbers, they'll appear much loner again.

 

I do put a very thin lick of grease on the pin, but be sure none is going to end up on the rubber. I only do this so they don't rust.

Thanks  Spider.

I would have to guess then, when  torquing up the pin,  locking the bush sleeves to the pin is achieved though compression of an 15 thou extra length of the sleeves.

Edited by chuee, 23 August 2024 - 08:43 PM.

[nicklouse]

Not really as they are locked between the pin and the subframe.