39 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

I was thinking similar as a next step. The issue would be the master cylinder piston not returning far enough to uncover the hole that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. You could test this by opening a wheel cylinder bleed nipple and seeing if fluid will run through by gravity and atmospheric pressure in the reservoir. You can do better with a syringe and a bit of hose by pulling some through.

 

It's not unheard of for water to drain down from where the masters are fitted and cause the pedals to seize on their pivot shaft. Even if you pull the clevis pin out and the pedal swings up freely it could still be the master as the piston isn't physically attached to the pushrod.

 

 

More out of curiosity: It looks like a Canada spec car from your profile pic. Is it LHD with the master cylinders also on the left?

[detroitmini]

I was thinking similar as a next step. The issue would be the master cylinder piston not returning far enough to uncover the hole that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. You could test this by opening a wheel cylinder bleed nipple and seeing if fluid will run through by gravity and atmospheric pressure in the reservoir. You can do better with a syringe and a bit of hose by pulling some through.

 

It's not unheard of for water to drain down from where the masters are fitted and cause the pedals to seize on their pivot shaft. Even if you pull the clevis pin out and the pedal swings up freely it could still be the master as the piston isn't physically attached to the pushrod.

 

 

More out of curiosity: It looks like a Canada spec car from your profile pic. Is it LHD with the master cylinders also on the left?

 

It is Canada spec that the previous owner switched to RHD but it has pockets on both sides.

[Spider]

 

So I took the master off and lifted it, and even resting on top of the studs (approx 3/4" above normal position) the brake pedal still rests on the body. Do you shim it up? Or rearward in vehicle?

 

 

There's something rather odd there. It could be someone has done a 'conversion' to it where the Push Rod is no longer retained in the Master Cylinder. (As a side note, if this has been done, it does make for an easy fitting of them but the Push Rods can jump out of the Master Cylinders )

 

Best investigate here as there's only about 1" of useful travel in the Master itself.

[detroitmini]

Being a Canadian Spec, I have a brake inertia valve on the rear. This valve has a forward arrow, representing forward in the vehicle. The previous owner however did not know this and thought the forward arrow meant for the forward line to go into it. He hung it at a weird angle (cant do) and routed the lines wrong. So looks like I will be rerouting brake lines today.

 

Questions:

I know these are sensitive to orientation. Should the font "front" be horizontal with the ground? 

 

Does left side and right side outlet matter? I know that the inlet from the front is the port with the nut.

 

Photo of valve:

https://ibb.co/wMQNJ1g

Edited by detroitmini, 15 October 2019 - 12:52 PM.

[Spider]

Oh, OK. This can put a different slant on it all, but only as far as the issues with the Rear Wheels.

 

The Line pointing to the Front should be Horizontal. I have a drilling template but I don't know how to load this up here.

 

Inside is a big chamber and a big ball bearing. The End with the 'Nut' is where the fluid comes in and is a Valve. The Ball 'normally' rests in the Valve and opens it. When the Ball leaves the Valve, it shuts off. The 2 outlets are in that common big chamber. It doesn't matter which goes to which side. Normally, the Top Outlet will go to the RH Wheel and the Front one to the Left.

[detroitmini]

Great. Currently under car swapping brake lines. Will report back when finished.

[detroitmini]

At first test, appears to be a success. Need to finish bleeding the clutch and then will go for a test drive.

[detroitmini]

Well, idk how, but this topic can be marked as solved. Took the vehicle for a long test ride last night and the wheel is no longer blazing hot.

 

Root Cause: Dragging brake shoes

 

Solution: Since vehicle is Canadian spec, has inertia brake valve under rear subframe. Valve was not mounted nor plumbed properly. Valve was remounted with brakes line rerun.

 

Thank you everyone for the help/conversation!

[Spider]

I'm glad this seems to be resolved, however, just before I do mark it as solved, in your opening post you mention " 3 of 4 wheels are hot to the touch " (or to that effect.

 

So, it seemed one of the fronts was also getting hot (and it was on the back of that I suggested looking over the Master Cylinder fitment). Is this now also OK and if so, how / why ?

[detroitmini]

I'm glad this seems to be resolved, however, just before I do mark it as solved, in your opening post you mention " 3 of 4 wheels are hot to the touch " (or to that effect.

 

So, it seemed one of the fronts was also getting hot (and it was on the back of that I suggested looking over the Master Cylinder fitment). Is this now also OK and if so, how / why ?

 

As I have been working through this project, the weather here in Michigan has gotten cooler and cooler (Currently about 50 degrees F). The rest of the wheels do not seem too hot now, and never smoked like the back right did. Also during the repair process, I did undo and redo the brake master possibly shifting it some? Either way, I will continue to monitor but I might just mark the other wheels being hot to normal use?