16 replies to this topic

[NDT]

My Mk1 project is (probably) getting an A+ with a rod change.

Has anyone fitted a rod change into a mk1 and kept the floor-mounted starter?

My bodywork man is concerned that there won't be room for rod change, exhaust and the body of the starter.

[DeadSquare]

The first 997 Cooper had floor start, exhaust and a cast remote, so I should think that there is enough room.

 

When I moved the pipes and cable inside my brother's car, I bolted the seat mounting through a piece of suitably shaped angle iron, and mounted the starter through the angle iron.

[NDT]

Yes, the restorer suggested looking for a remote box - he thinks it might give more clearance than the rod change?

[NDT]

I want the car as a fun thing, so originally wanted the rod change for its better change.

Part of me like the idea of keeping the pudding stirrer though...

[Spider]

The Aussie built Minis were pretty much like this. I'll post some pics later.

[whistler]

All Coopers/S's had remote gearchange which entered the floor tunnel slightly on the left side as opposed to the rod change which is through the centre. Mk1/11/111 had round tunnel, later had squared tunnel. Find a remote box and keep it correct.

[NDT]

All Coopers/S's had remote gearchange which entered the floor tunnel slightly on the left side as opposed to the rod change which is through the centre. Mk1/11/111 had round tunnel, later had squared tunnel. Find a remote box and keep it correct.

The car won’t be period correct anyway - it’s getting an A+.
How bad is a 3-synchro box with a pudding stirrer? I’m seriously tempted to put this under the A+. Then the car will look like a stock 850 from the inside.

[tmsmini]

It is close but not an issue. I cannot seem to find a good picture at the moment.

[NDT]

It is close but not an issue. I cannot seem to find a good picture at the moment.

That's very helpful - thanks.

I now just have to decide whether to:

a) fit the A+ engine and box with a rod change - losing the pudding stirrer but getting a much sportier gearshift, or

b) transplant the A+ onto the 3-synchro gearbox, which will take time, retaining the pudding stirrer and some character but losing some shift quality 

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I seem to remember David Vizard saying that the remote gearchange looked more sporty than the original pudding stirrer but that there was little advantage to be gained in gearchanging ability.  Possibly in his How To Modify Your Mini book.

[Spider]

Essentially, the Aussie built Minis had a MKI Floor Pan from start to end of production.

 

When the change to Rod Shift came in 1974, we used a different bracket arrangement to the UK cars to fit the floor pan

 

 

 

 

Likewise, our Mokes originally had a Pudding Stirrer / Magic Wand / Kangaroo's Leg Shifter. When these wend to Rod Shift, again, the floor pan was unchanged, just shorter Rods used to bring the shifter up through the same hole in the tunnel and a longer, cranked lever used. That was the middle shifter of the 3;-

 

 

The upper one was used in the very late Mokes and for these, the location of the hole in the tunnel was moved.

[NDT]

Essentially, the Aussie built Minis had a MKI Floor Pan from start to end of production.

When the change to Rod Shift came in 1974, we used a different bracket arrangement to the UK cars to fit the floor pan







Likewise, our Mokes originally had a Pudding Stirrer / Magic Wand / Kangaroo's Leg Shifter. When these wend to Rod Shift, again, the floor pan was unchanged, just shorter Rods used to bring the shifter up through the same hole in the tunnel and a longer, cranked lever used. That was the middle shifter of the 3;-



The upper one was used in the very late Mokes and for these, the location of the hole in the tunnel was moved.

That’s so helpful - thanks!
I will keep the existing hole and shorten the rods.

[dodge44]

The big issue when you retain the floor starter and fit a remote or rod change gear shift is the space available for the exhaust pipe. OK if the exhaust remains as standard but if you up the size to say an RC40 the switch will be perilously close or will touch the hot pipe. A single box exhaust will give you some latitude but no hope with a two box system as the front box needs to be fairly central in the tunnel to clear the hand brake cables.

After running a Mk1 with a rod box for 3 years during which time it gobbled up numerous engine steady bushes etc. the switch to a remote change was a blessed relief and I've never had to change engine mountings or the steady bushes in the 25 odd years since. Each to their own and I know these days there are additional steadies you can add which presumably get over this problem but personally I wouldn't touch a rod change with a barge pole....

[62S]

The first 997 Cooper had floor start, exhaust and a cast remote, so I should think that there is enough room.

The 997 Cooper did not have a floor start and depending on what age/model of Mk 1 you have it may not have had a floor start either.

I'm with Dodge44 on the remote and IMHO it is a better gearchange than the rod setup

[locrep]

Are you doing the conversion after the painting is done or has it been painted already?