14 replies to this topic

[Chew]

Hi everyone, just wondering whats the best way to remove and replace the rear front subframe mounts. Do I use a piece of wood to jack the car off the floor (and then use axle stands to support) or can it be done another way?

 

Cheers

[Steve220]

From Haynes

Chock the front wheels then jack up the rear of the car and support with axle stands.

Support the subframe with a jack on the side to be released.

Undo and remove the 2 nuts and bolts securing the subframe mounting.

Lift up the carpets inside and have an assistant hold the 3 bolts securing the mounting to the body. Undo and remove the nuts from below and lift off the mounting.

Refitting is the reverse sequence (gotta love that!)

[Spider]

You can do one side at a time.

 

I do as you are thinking by holding the body on a stand under the heel board. The stands I have I already adapted for using under a body, but a flat piece of timber between would be fine to spread the load.

 

You'll need to remove the trailing arm to get to the nut for the mount.

 

Sometimes the pins can be seized tight in the subframe and there's not really room to be able to tap them out. I have a small hydraulic ram I use that just fits to press them out.

 

 

I'd suggest when refitting the pin back through the subframe to put some antiseize on it.

 

 

From Haynes

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Refitting is the reverse sequence (gotta love that!)

 

Yes, they make everything sound like an operation that you could finish before morning tea !

[yeti21586]

That's all useful guys but he's asking about the rear mounts of the front subby

[Spider]

That's all useful guys but he's asking about the rear mounts of the front subby

 

I think I'm turning dyslexic !

[Steve220]

That's all useful guys but he's asking about the rear mounts of the front subby

I think I'm turning dyslexic !

I took a stab in the dark as to which subframe he meant lol

Edited by Steve220, 07 July 2019 - 06:41 PM.

[nicklouse]

I know which he had asked for but as you guys were so sure you knew which it was I did not bother to answer. Ps yes I am dyslexic.

So rear mounts on the front subframe. Jack up car. Support body. Undo the nuts so you can push out the captive bolt assy into the car. Undo the bolts holding the mount onto the subframe and then slide the remains out sideways.

Refit by attaching the captive bolt plate nuts first.

You may need to undo the tower bolts and lower the subframe a little. Hence the support the body.

[Ethel]

So are the results in on our game of pair the adjective 'n noun?

 

That watermark is superfluous isn't it  . Who else do we know who'd be tooled up to hydraulically press trunnions out    

[monkey]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

[luismx123]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

why not the fronts as well? I'm just about to do the same but have some new polybushes lying around and was wondering if I should get solids instead :/

any noticable sound difference from the originals?

[monkey]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

why not the fronts as well? I'm just about to do the same but have some new polybushes lying around and was wondering if I should get solids instead :/

any noticable sound difference from the originals?

I haven’t noticed any noise difference, and I didn’t fit the solid front mounts purely because I couldn’t find them Lol I had fitted new rubber tear drops about a year ago so they were still fine. I had ordered the solid mount kit from mini spares ages ago and somehow they had got scattered all around the garage, I’m sure I’ll find the solid tear drops when I’m looking for something else lol

[hunterg30]

The bolts that are strapped together which pass through the floor might be metric so don't get the nuts mixed up with the ones that pass through the subframe they might be imperial

[kkeith]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

Hi, can I ask... was your engine in for this? If so, how hard was it to actually get the old mounts out and get the new ones in on the tower? Do you access from within the engine bay? Also, do the rear solid mounts fit into the existing holes left by the rubber mounts and lastly does the floor pan need to be strengthened if using solid mounts? Thanks

Edited by kkeith, 12 October 2019 - 05:32 AM.

[monkey]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

Hi, can I ask... was your engine in for this? If so, how hard was it to actually get the old mounts out and get the new ones in on the tower? Do you access from within the engine bay? Also, do the rear solid mounts fit into the existing holes left by the rubber mounts and lastly does the floor pan need to be strengthened if using solid mounts? Thanks

Apologies for the late reply!

The engine was in when I done it, you access the mounts from the engine bay and it was pretty straight forward. Probably made easier the fact I don’t have a brake servo. I made enough room to get the mount out, brush it out and get the new mount in. The only difficulty I had was with getting one side lined back up to get the tower bolt in, but a bit of jiggling with a jack and crow bar sorted it - the other side slotted straight in.

The rear mounts slot straight in, no mods require. Some people do say the floor needs a strengthening plate welding on, I’m risking it without at the moment, done around 500 miles with no issues yet, although the mini is currently with a friend having the sills replaced, and if he get a chance he will probably weld something in anyway.

Hope this helps

[kkeith]

I recently changed all 6 front subframe mounts
Drive car onto ramps
Remove front teardrop mounts
Loosen both top mounts right off, loosen all rear mounts.
One side at a time remove top bolt and rear mount bolts, using a Jack with sturdy wood jack that side of the body up, fight old mounts out and replace loosely,
Repeat for other side
Replace front mounts

Tighten all nuts up
Done.

Took around a couple hours inc getting tools out and tidying up, one side was a bit of a ******* getting he top bolt back in, just a case of hacking and wiggling till it goes it.

Rightly or wrongly I fitted solid top and rear mounts, the old ones where knackered, the difference in handling is a noticeable improvement, mainly when turning in hard.

Hi, can I ask... was your engine in for this? If so, how hard was it to actually get the old mounts out and get the new ones in on the tower? Do you access from within the engine bay? Also, do the rear solid mounts fit into the existing holes left by the rubber mounts and lastly does the floor pan need to be strengthened if using solid mounts? Thanks

Apologies for the late reply!

The engine was in when I done it, you access the mounts from the engine bay and it was pretty straight forward. Probably made easier the fact I don’t have a brake servo. I made enough room to get the mount out, brush it out and get the new mount in. The only difficulty I had was with getting one side lined back up to get the tower bolt in, but a bit of jiggling with a jack and crow bar sorted it - the other side slotted straight in.

The rear mounts slot straight in, no mods require. Some people do say the floor needs a strengthening plate welding on, I’m risking it without at the moment, done around 500 miles with no issues yet, although the mini is currently with a friend having the sills replaced, and if he get a chance he will probably weld something in anyway.

Hope this helps

Thanks - I managed to do it!! ?