63 replies to this topic

[imack]

Better chance of less or no damage with straight cut as no side thrust.
Not using roller bearing straight cut idler by any chance are you as these don't use any shims.

[Ben_Cunnington]

Ahhh yes imack I am using roller bearing straight cut idler!! So that’s not the issue?

[Ben_Cunnington]

For some reason my photos taken on my iPhone won’t upload

[imack]

If you can't spin the clutch plate with a screwdriver with the clutch pedal held down as mentioned in an earlier post, and the back plate is moving adequately as Moke mentioned then I think that the flywheel is going to have to come off at the very least.
Once that's off you can recheck the primary gear end float and rotate the primary gear by hand and check for excessive resistance. It should turn fairy easily but there will be resistance as it'll be turning the layshaft and all the gears on the mainshaft.

[Ben_Cunnington]

That’s tomorrow’s job then ?

[Ben_Cunnington]

Just out of curiosity if the thrust washer had been inserted with the groves toward the block rather than toward the flywheel. Could this cause the issue I’m up against? I’m not sure it is but I’m just overthinking everything I did.

[imack]

Do you mean the primary gear shim?
If so it should only fit one way round as it has a chamfer on the inner bore on one side to clear the radius on the crank.
Think it has grooves both sides. The idler fer thrusts I've used (pre a+ only) have grooves both sides.

[Arthy]

Sorry to highjack! 

 

Weirdly I've been having the exact same problem! I've replaced my slave and I'm getting the right amount of movement at the arm too! Using the MED ST1 package too

 

What even makes it more strange is that I drove it home, although I was having slight issues getting the gears without crunching. Decided to look at the adjustment, and the gap was larger than I wanted, so I adjusted it and boom, I can't get any gears at all now! 

 

I'm struggling to get the flywheel off right now (what a pain that is  ), but could this be the same issue? I know there was oil leaking out of the primary seal, as you can see quite a bit in the bell housing. I also know my idler gear needs doing (standard), been rattling for around a year now! 

[Ben_Cunnington]

Hmmm this is interesting Arthy. Keep us updated as and when you manage to pull the flywheel. I’m going to have to buy a puller on sat from minispares as the one I’ve got is too big to get in whilst engine is in situ!

[imack]

Don't forget to set the flywheel to the appropriate position when removing so that the 'c' clip doesn't drop and jam the flywheel.
Pistons 1/2 way down the bore is considered best practice.

[Ben_Cunnington]

Thanks imack!! Great advice!

[Ben_Cunnington]

Hi Guys so I think I may have got to the bottoms of this. So I’ve just removed the diaphragm from the clutch so it would disengage the clutch. I can now turn the clutch easily and in turn that is very easily turning the primary gear. From what I’ve been reading this would indicated that the flywheel is binding on the primary gear so I need to have some of the flywheel machined to stop this? Please correct me if I’m wrong?
Thanks again all

[Ben_Cunnington]

Actually no that doesn’t make any sense? If the flywheel was pinching the primary gear it still wouldn’t easily move? So where am I going wrong here? ?

[imack]

Sorry, misread your post, sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging properly for some reason. Did you check diaphragm movement as Moke Spider suggested?

Edited by imack, 11 May 2019 - 03:08 PM.

[Dusky]

This means the flywheel is correct and the clutch straps weren't set up right, or the diaphragm is a bad one.