24 replies to this topic

[Sprocket]

Back firing in the inlet???? Ignition issue

My guess is there is fuel in the map sensor. Clean it all through from the manifold through the fuel trap and onto the ECU. Take the ECU out and with a piece of cotton wool, twist tightly a length small enough to be inserted into the MAP sensor port. Leave the whole thing in a warm place over night, some where like an airing cupboard or ontop of the boiler maybe. Double check all of the small black capilary lines from the manifold through the fuel trap to the ECU. Also worth considering is the rubber pipe that connects the port on the ECU case to the MAP sensor itself, it can become perished or come off.

I have the Crypton ACT service tool and it seems to Do the same as the Sykes one. I have recently bought the Sykes one, just waiting on the cable. I bought this because I need to comunicate whith othr Rover ECUs in the range and the Aplication PODs are easier to come by.

AND

I now know for sure that you will need a service tool to reset the adaptive values. Its is also needed to reset the fault flags, but thats all they are, just an indication, the fault can be rectified, yet the fault flag will stay until its reset. The fault flags wont bother the operation if the fault has been fixed.


OOH

While reading back over this ive had a thought. This came from the old git as well.Make sure the capilary line ends are the correct ones. They should be the black ones, not the brown ones. The brown ones can be pushed onto the manifold/ fuel trap/ ECU too far and block off the capilary, then the ECU will throw up a MAP sensor fault and backfire, A LOT. Make sure the black elbows are not pushed on too far as well, though like i said, its easier to do it with the brown ones. Thats what I found on Bounce's at the British Mini Show Down.

Tell you one thing though, the ECU adapted very well considering. He was still able to drive it and had been for a good while, LOL, he drove it there. The engine was idling, i reset the adaptive values and the engine just died, started it, it wouldnt idle. Eventualy found the problem above.

Failing all of the above, it does sound like you will have to swap out parts to find the fault. Some times its the easiest way.

If fuel is constant pressure, and its backfiring in the inlet, Look at the MAP sensor circuit as i described above. Its not clear to me if your saying fuel pressure is fine or it drops off when you have this problem

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 02 November 2006 - 06:18 PM.

[VNOMUS]

First off, a big thank you for all of the help!

The fuel pressure is stumbling, but given the pronounced backfire, I think it's result of the problem and not the cause. I'll pull the ECU and lines this weekend and try drying them out....

Wow, I might have a bit of trouble convincing the Boss on the need for the Sykes Pickavant, but the Crypton Act looks a little more reasonable. Is there a specific version that I should look for?

Edited by VNOMUS, 03 November 2006 - 11:00 AM.

[AlexM]

Have you tried replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm? They don't get touched very often on fuel injected cars but often replacing them can clear up running issues.

Edited by summergnu, 03 November 2006 - 02:18 PM.

[the old git]

Have you tried replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm? They don't get touched very often on fuel injected cars but often replacing them can clear up running issues.

Good point- after qualifying for a race, the car started spluttering at scrutineering, revved but would not tick over and was erratic. Changed the rotor arm with one I had spare, still no good. Borrowed one from one of the other racers--problem cured. Turns out the spare was NOT a lucas one, the one we borrowed was. What was happening was that the thing was earthing down thro' the dizzy. I only ever use Lucas now

[Sprocket]

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem

There you go, all you need and more that you dont. Realy good value these are, but it wont do the MEMSJ2 or the MEMS1.9 of the MPi Mini and 95 on Rovers.

Email and see if he'll do international post, be well worth it what ever the cost. Plus you may find others in the US that may require its use. Im sure there was some one last year.

[VNOMUS]

Ok, drying out the ECU didn't seem to have any affect. :'(
There doesn't appear to be any carbon traces in the dizzy cap but I'll go ahead and order a new cap and rotor just in case...

[Sprocket]

What MNE number is on the ECU? and does the car have the Rover remot alarm and imobiliser fitted?

It might truely be an issue with the map sensor in the ECU, but to determine that you will need the service tool and a vac gauge to compare the two.

Sounds more and more like a part change out job im afraid.

Seriously advise a diagnostic check, however you can achieve this, and i can understand your frustration that you cant have this done, due to the logistics of it.

Edited by Mini Sprocket, 04 November 2006 - 08:54 PM.

[VNOMUS]

The ECU # is: MNE101160 and there's no immobilizer or alarm. (I don't have key Fobs either) It's a Japanese version (AC and Auto) if that's important. I'll see if I can get a old scanner. Otherwise it looks like it may be cheaper to put a carb on it (at least those I can get parts for over here!)....

[koss]

Just a question do modern automatic minis have a rev limiter when they are in park and nutral ?

[VNOMUS]

Woohoo..looks like Nick's the winner.... I'm still trying for a scanner but in the mean time decided to pull and clean the crank sensor. It didn't look too bad but after reinstalling it the problem seems to be gone!....Well maybe I'll delay my celebration for a week or so of driving time....