32 replies to this topic

[Mini Manannán]

I've searched Namrick and wasn't able to find them so I emailed them asking about non-nyloc lock nuts.

  I got a reply saying they do Aerotight nuts, would these be the same thing???

  - Namrick don't do lots of pictures so here's a link from Westfield: https://www.westfiel...LBoCPSsQAvD_BwE

[Spider]

I've searched Namrick and wasn't able to find them so I emailed them asking about non-nyloc lock nuts.

  I got a reply saying they do Aerotight nuts, would these be the same thing???

  - Namrick don't do lots of pictures so here's a link from Westfield: https://www.westfiel...LBoCPSsQAvD_BwE

 

While I have seen them about, I haven't used them but come across a small few, They are a self locking nut but from my very limited exposure to them, I felt they didn't lock as well as most other self locking nuts, but don't go on my words here alone.

 

Perhaps buy some and check them out in the workshop first ?

 

And don't buy stainless !

[Cooperman]

It is worth noting that Nyloc nuts are acceptable in aviation as a replacement for split pins.

However, I do believe that where positive wire locking is required, a Nyloc is not acceptable.

[sonikk4]

It is worth noting that Nyloc nuts are acceptable in aviation as a replacement for split pins.

However, I do believe that where positive wire locking is required, a Nyloc is not acceptable.

 

You can also get castellated Nylocs which gives you the ability to either use a split pin of just the Nyloc. And yup as Peter has said for us in the Aviation industry wire locking is required in certain areas especially areas of high vibration, engines for example. Also remember proper Nylocs are NOT heat resistant so bare that in mind as to where you use them. Wont be the first time of the last time i have seen them used on a manifold.

[Magneto]

Not to change the subject, but I was surprised to see Nylocks used on the connecting rod bolts in an engine I just tore down! Never seen that before.....

[ilmung]

Hi

Concerning the tie-rod for caster ,how must I read the term " you have to bottomed out" 

Does that mean you have to tight the nut to the point that the 2 rubbers are not moving anymore .......and than use the right torque ?

 

Geert

[nicklouse]

Hi

Concerning the tie-rod for caster ,how must I read the term " you have to bottomed out" 

Does that mean you have to tight the nut to the point that the 2 rubbers are not moving anymore .......and than use the right torque ?

 

Geert

Nope. The bid washer needs to be in contact with the front face of the part of the tie bar that goes through the rubbers. Put the washer on without the rubbers and you will see it only goes so far until it bottoms out. This allows for the rubbers to be compressed by the correct amount. Any further tightening does not compress the rubbers any more.

[ilmung]

Hi 

I am confused about the torque for the nut on the tie-rod for caster setting.

Maybe someone can explain me ?

Some questions :

1) I read that you should tight the nut so that the 2 rubbers are bottomed out , does that mean that you tight so far that the rubbers can't move anymore ?

2) Do you have to tight the nut (see 1) first before you regulate the length of the tie-rod (but  will the tie-rod still turn because you have already tight the nut ?) or is it                  otherwhiles ?

Thanks for your help !

[nicklouse]

Hi 

I am confused about the torque for the nut on the tie-rod for caster setting.

Maybe someone can explain me ?

Some questions :

1) I read that you should tight the nut so that the 2 rubbers are bottomed out , does that mean that you tight so far that the rubbers can't move anymore ?

2) Do you have to tight the nut (see 1) first before you regulate the length of the tie-rod (but  will the tie-rod still turn because you have already tight the nut ?) or is it                  otherwhiles ?

Thanks for your help !

Depends on the tie bars fitted.  If everything is in good order there should be no issue adjusting the tie bars if you have to rotate the bar in the bushes. 

[Revd]

It is worth noting that Nyloc nuts are acceptable in aviation as a replacement for split pins.

However, I do believe that where positive wire locking is required, a Nyloc is not acceptable.

K-nuts (12 point and silver plated to act as a high temperature thread lubricant) are common aviation locking nuts - or at least they were when I was at Ansty. Not cheap though at around £10 per nut  

[nicklouse]

 

It is worth noting that Nyloc nuts are acceptable in aviation as a replacement for split pins.

However, I do believe that where positive wire locking is required, a Nyloc is not acceptable.

K-nuts (12 point and silver plated to act as a high temperature thread lubricant) are common aviation locking nuts - or at least they were when I was at Ansty. Not cheap though at around £10 per nut  

 

I had/have some silver 6 sided silver plated knocking about somewhere.

[ilmung]

If I summarised  :

You  tight the nut till the rubbers are bottomed out , than you tight to the right torque and finally  you can regulate the length of the tie-rod to get the desired caster .

Is it a good idea to lubricate  the rubbers and tierod so that  tightening is easier ? 

Is this right what I write ? 

[Cooperman]

No, it is not the rubbers which 'bottom out'. The tie bar threaded end has a step and the washer MUST be tightened until it is sitting hard up against this step. The fact that the rubbers will then be squashed quite a bit is the reason for the 'step'.

First of all push the tie bar through one rubber, then the 'ear' then the second rubber, then put the washer on and loosely fit the big Nyloc nut or castellated nut, or similar lock-nut). 

Now fit the other end of the tie bar to the lower arm and slide the 5/16" UNF special bolt into place, put on the nut & washer, but don't tighten it yet.

Tighten the big nut at the front end of the tie-bar until the washer is seated hard against the step. Personally I never use a torque wrench, I just do it up nice & tight (and on competition cars I use a castellated nut and a split pin).

Let the car down onto its wheels so that the suspension is at normal height and finally tighten the bolt attaching the tie-bar to the lower arm.

As a matter of interest, I always fit the bolt through the lower arm upwards. Yes, I know it is not good practice to have upward bolts, but it does make it so much easier to take the tie bar off when necessary. However, I use a Nyloc nut, Loctite and I lock-peen the bolt as well. I've never had one come loose, but lock-peening means I need a new bolt every time I remove one.

[ilmung]

Cooperman ,

Now it's clear to me , thanks !

The only think I doubt .......if you regulate the length of the tie -rod , the tie-rod is turning in the rubbers (which are under pressure ) ,isn't this a problem ?

May I use silicone graise(like they use for the brake rubbers ) to help turning the tie-rod  or is this an exaggeration  ?

[Cooperman]

As the suspension moves the tie rod rotates, but only very slightly. The rubber has sufficient compliance to cater for this. The tie rod does not rotate inside the rubber.