17 replies to this topic

[leepol83]

Maybe I shouldn’t have said loose!! Basically if I put a screwdriver carefully into the thread to line up the trunions it will move the whole nut, like I say they tighten up lovely with no movement, it looks to me like the nuts are welded to another plate then the plate looks spot welded to the heel board, so maybe it’s the plate that the nuts are welded to moving and not the actual nut, it is a brand new heritage part! I’ll hsve a look next time I go up might just pop a weld on if I can get into it now ??

[MaximMini]

Hi Everyone,

 

IMHO you should not weld on the captive nuts because of two reasons. Firstly, there should be some wiggle room to make sure that the bolt will go in straight and not cross thread. And secondly, this connection sees dynamic loads and should be of force-fit rather than form-fit type. I went to some length when replacing the lower captive nuts on the heel board of my Cooper (see my build diary).

 

Cheers

[sonikk4]

Maybe I shouldn’t have said loose!! Basically if I put a screwdriver carefully into the thread to line up the trunions it will move the whole nut, like I say they tighten up lovely with no movement, it looks to me like the nuts are welded to another plate then the plate looks spot welded to the heel board, so maybe it’s the plate that the nuts are welded to moving and not the actual nut, it is a brand new heritage part! I’ll hsve a look next time I go up might just pop a weld on if I can get into it now

 

As i said best thing you can do is offer up a trunnion, bolt it in place then weld the nut properly. There should be enough play in the rubber components in the system to give you the ability to tweak things to fit. You are wholly reliant on the nut plate (if it is one) being sufficiently strong enough to take up the torque of the bolts being installed. 

 

Plus with the loads that are transmitted through it i would rather it was welded in place. Some of the stuff coming from BMH is not the best so better to be safe than sorry.