50 replies to this topic

[floormanager]

That one looks good and should work fine.

 

I have one on my Mk.1 Cooper 'S' and it is mounted onto the inner wing on the outside, i.e. under the wheel arch. It is very effective in traffic on hot days and just keeps the temp at a sensible level.

 

My recommendation is to have it manually switched and to fit a capillary-type gauge which gives an accurate temp reading in degrees, then you will know when to switch the fan on. I have a warning light next to the fan switch as well and I have it switched so that I can leave it on with the engine switched off and the key removed.

 

Make sure you fir it to 'suck' the air out of the engine bay and not blow it back in. Sorry if that's a bit of a basic thing to say, but I did see one which was intended for a front radiator Ford and it had been put on a Mini to work 'backwards'  .

That's exactly what i want to do.  Would you be able to post a few pics under the wheel arch??

Paul

[floormanager]

also, did you use a relay to switch on the fan?

Thanks,

Paul

[timmy850]

A relay would be a very good idea. Thermo fans take a lot of current and you don't want all the current running through the switch

[nicklouse]

also, did you use a relay to switch on the fan?

Thanks,

Paul

do so.

[Cooperman]

Yes, I always use a relay for any electrical item which has a high power requirement.

 

I also use a 6-blade 'export' fan on my 'S', although on the 1990 Cooper 1275 rally car I have an 11-blade is fitted.

[carbon]

brand new rebuilt engine, 750 miles on the clock. thermostat was dodgy, replaced that recently with one that I know works.

Would suggest also checking the ignition timing.

 

In my experience if there not enough advance at idle the engine will run much hotter.

[beardylondon]

Thanks all. 

 

Am going to fit a new thermostat, and advance the timing.

 

I noticed the thermostat I had in didn't have the bleed hole, like my new one does, would that have caused a pressure build up?

 

 

 

[cooperd70]

I have several. Some do and some don't. No sure if it would be the cause though.

[mini13]

Thanks all. 

 

Am going to fit a new thermostat, and advance the timing.

 

I noticed the thermostat I had in didn't have the bleed hole, like my new one does, would that have caused a pressure build up?

 

 

 

it could trap air, i would always stick a small hole in there just to air can get through so the system will beed itself, 3mm would be fine

[beardylondon]

Well I have fitted that one with the hole it in, so we'll see!

[beardylondon]

Well it seems to run colder in traffic now, maybe that new thermostat fixed it. It will be interesting to see what it does in hotter weather!

[beardylondon]

Hi Cooperman

 

Please can you point me in the right direction for which relay I need?

 

That one looks good and should work fine.

 

I have one on my Mk.1 Cooper 'S' and it is mounted onto the inner wing on the outside, i.e. under the wheel arch. It is very effective in traffic on hot days and just keeps the temp at a sensible level.

 

My recommendation is to have it manually switched and to fit a capillary-type gauge which gives an accurate temp reading in degrees, then you will know when to switch the fan on. I have a warning light next to the fan switch as well and I have it switched so that I can leave it on with the engine switched off and the key removed.

 

Make sure you fir it to 'suck' the air out of the engine bay and not blow it back in. Sorry if that's a bit of a basic thing to say, but I did see one which was intended for a front radiator Ford and it had been put on a Mini to work 'backwards'  .

[Cooperman]

I normally use a Bosche 450880030. It is 25 to 30 amp which is ideal for the fan. Don't forget to run the supply cable through a fuse. I suggest a 12 amp fuse.

[timmy850]

You can also get fused relays like these which combine the fuse and relay into one unit
https://www.autobarn...de-fuse-68060bl

[beardylondon]

thank you!

 

I normally use a Bosche 450880030. It is 25 to 30 amp which is ideal for the fan. Don't forget to run the supply cable through a fuse. I suggest a 12 amp fuse.