457 replies to this topic

[mini13]

the flywheel should be torqued to 150ft lb

[JonnyAlpha]

the flywheel should be torqued to 150ft lb

 

I don't have the Haynes Manual to hand but according to all these references the Flywheel Centre Bolt should be Torqued to 110 - 115 lb/ft 

https://www.theminif...gs-reformatted/

https://www.classicm...chnical/torque/

https://www.minimani...ch_Settings_597

 

I have taken advice from Keith Calver and following his direction have torqued it to 135 lb/ft following a three step process:

 

"For road stuff, torque to 135lb ft, strike the centre raised ridge of the flywheel with a heavy mallet (I use a copper one) a couple of times. Re-torque, strike with mallet, re-torque, strike with the mallet, re-torque. By the third re-torque you should be getting next to no movement on the torque wrench.

Rover made a bad choice at 112lb ft. I have seen loads of A+ units with the flywheels welded on, broken through the C clip groove, or simply fallen off."

[JonnyAlpha]

A little more progress today. 

 

Fitted the Fan to see what needed to be done with the sensor cable:

 

 

As you can see in the pic above I have taken off most of the rubber molding around cable, but will need to take off the remainder, as Stuart Gurr has done on this one:

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Next job was to install the 35 grub screws along with some Loctite.

 

 

I have now realised that although the position marked '90' is 90 degrees BTDC however it should be another 10 degrees clockwise as it needs to be 90 degrees before the sensor when the pulley is at TDC. Looks like I'll need to take another one out.

 

Then I cleaned up the gasket and hylomar off of the timing plate.

 

 

Once the Loctite has set on the pulley (and I swap the grub screw), I need to get it on the lathe and face them off, so that they are all level.

Then I'll be in a position to finish. However the jury is currently out on whether to stick in a chain tensioner? Keith Calver, amongst others suggest yes, but I have also heard stories of Duplex setups mashing up tensioners causing all sorts of problems?? This chain came as part of the MSC EVO Duplex Lightweight Timing Gear set and was in an IWIS box.

 

Iv'e got the original tensioner bracket.

 

 

I also need to think about whether to fit a Speedi Sleeve? It was recommended with an Aluminium Pulley, to prevent the seal cutting a groove in the pulley seal face? The one I have (and they are not cheap), was bought for the first pulley I had. I need to find the original measurements, this one is 39.560mm

 

 

 

Lastly I painted up the sensor bracket that I have made:

 

[JonnyAlpha]

A little bit of spare time, so now that the grub screws where set in place, I got the pulley on the lathe and face them all off so that they were all the same height. Took ages to get the pulley square, but once it was I got it sorted.

 

 

I then cleaned it all off and splashed on some paint.

 

Too cold today and it wasn't a great job.

 

 

 

Having been strongly advised to fit a chain tensioner, after it turned up, I set about elongating the adjuster hole. As you can see in the image below without modification the tensioner would be too tight.

 

 

It doesn't need a lot taking out, indeed there's not a lot of metal to allow too much.

 

 

After de-burring and a check fit, I applied some loctite to the screws and nipped it into place. 6lb/ft.

 

 

Here's a quick video showing the chain tightness:

 

https://youtube.com/...M?feature=share

 

Last job was to say good luck to the RTS clutch and fit the Wok and Clutch Slave Cylinder bracket and assembly

 

 

And a last check to ensure the release bearing had an 'O' ring and was the correct way around.

 

 

 

 

 

Hopefully tomorrow on with the Timing Cover and Crank Pulley. Then fit the remaining bits 'n' pieces ready to drop the engine into the car!! 

[JonnyAlpha]

So, I am at an impasse, the next job is to fit the crank pulley, however before doing so I need to confirm whether or not I need to get it balanced. Now most of you reading this will say absolutely, any revolving mass needs balancing, however, these pulley are CNC machined from aluminium by and supplied by VmaxScart. Stuart has advised others that I know, that they do not need balancing. The issue niggling me is that I have now inserted 35 grub screws with one missing, this surely puts the pulley out of balance by the weight of one screw?

 

Anyway I contacted Stuart Gurr and after a lot of messages either way, I finally understood that, what I need to do to re-balance the pulley is drill, tap and install another grub screw in the vicinity of the missing one as indicated by the X in the pic below.

 

Whilst I was waiting for this confirmation I did a few small jobs. I fitted the replacement brake light switch, and modified the Oil Pressure Relief Valve as advised in the last paragraph in Kieth Calver's technical column on lubrication / oil pumps here.

 

 

I de-burred it with some 1200 emery paper.

 

 

This modification is to avoid the valve getting stuck if any debris gets in the way.

 

I also rubbed down and painted the packing pieces for the front subframe and made a couple out of stainless steel that I had lying around.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[KTS]

would an alternative solution be to fit a brass (..or other non-ferrous..) grub screw to the empty position ?

[JonnyAlpha]

would an alternative solution be to fit a brass (..or other non-ferrous..) grub screw to the empty position ?

Hmm, now there’s a thought.
I guess a non ferrous grub screw would not be registered by the magnetic sensor?

[Java_Green]

would an alternative solution be to fit a brass (..or other non-ferrous..) grub screw to the empty position ?

The way I would do it is to actually balance it. Take away the same amount of mass as the empty hole by drilling another hole 180 deg away. For example twice the mass of the empty hole at half the radii.

Edited by Java_Green, 18 February 2023 - 08:03 AM.

[gazza82]

Read about Keith's mod .. he seems to suggest three holes .. is that what you did?

Still trying to get my head around how this actually works .... ???

[JonnyAlpha]

Read about Keith's mod .. he seems to suggest three holes .. is that what you did?
Yes three holes at about 130 degrees to each other.

Still trying to get my head around how this actually works .... ???

[sonscar]

The ECU counts the bolts and refers to the missing one to calculate engine position,rpm and timing.Steve..

[JonnyAlpha]

Read about Keith's mod .. he seems to suggest three holes .. is that what you did?

Still trying to get my head around how this actually works .... ???

 

Yes I drilled three holes. I believe by having holes in the 'bullet' any debris will fall into the centre of the bullet, preventing a jam?

[JonnyAlpha]

 

would an alternative solution be to fit a brass (..or other non-ferrous..) grub screw to the empty position ?

Hmm, now there’s a thought.
I guess a non ferrous grub screw would not be registered by the magnetic sensor?

 

 

Well in the end I had to order some brass grub screws from China!!! I did try to make one out of an old brass key, but my Die skills leave a lot to be desired!! 

Anyway, this afternoon I remembered a pot of 5mm set screws, bolts, nuts, washers and studs that my father in law gave me. He used to be an electrician and inside to pot were several 5mm threaded copper studs about an inch long - bonus. I can cut one of these down and cut a slot in one end and maybe use it until the grub screw turns up. 

Shame though as I have wasted three build days now :-(

[JonnyAlpha]

Well some success at last. I decided to have another go at making a grub screw (couldn't afford to wait until mid March).

 

I picked up what I thought a brass hanger and cut off a suitable part:

 

 

But as soon as I started cutting it turned out to be plated!!!

 

 

I then remembered that I had some old brass keys stashed away somewhere, my father in law had given them to me to make some small soft punches a while back. So I cut off a suitable lump and started the process.

 

First of all I turned it down to just under 5mm.

 

 

Then after making a chamfer on the end I set at it with the 5mm Die, more luck this time.

 

 

 

Then back in the lathe to cut it off.

 

 

Then I used a couple of nuts and piece of 5mm threaded copper to hold it whilst I filed it to the correct length and cut a slot in it.

 

 

Then into the pulley with some Loctite 243.

 

 

Then screwed in to the same height as the rest.