457 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

I hope the links work....

 

Yeh the opened ok, nice work. Incidentally, what is a PK5 pulley?

[sonscar]

Five rib flat belt?,Steve..

[Shooter63]

I've just read through your thread, very detailed, I have a question, where does the crank dampner fit on?

Shooter

 
The crank damper (or harmonic) is part of the crank pulley, AFIK it is a two part system with rubber in between to iron out the vibrations associated with a 1275 engine. The Crank pulley (and its damper) bolt to the radiator end of the Crank and drive the alternator and water pump. I still have this engine's original crank pulley/damper and it was balanced with the crank, however, as I am now intending to fit a supercharger, I have had to use an alloy twin belt pulley which has no damper. Ho this will affect the engine I do not know.

Yup fully aware of what a crank dampner does, I'm a tad worried that you haven't got one, Spider posted an excellent piece a few days ago on this very subject personally I learned the hard way back in the 80's when I ran an pretty hot engine in my Mk1, but changed the bottom pulley for an un damped 998 one with the idea of less weight faster spin up, guess what happened the engine spat its bearings out, lesson learned and off to the library I went ( no Internet in those days) to learn about torsional vibration, I think you might be able to use a Cooper S type sold by MED and machine your blower drive pulley to fit, MED do a pulley with a trigger wheel built into the rear which would make things nice and compact, you would need to get the assembly balanced though.

Shooter

 
Just read Moke Spider's response you mentioned here
 
The pulley I am using is supplied by Vmaxscart, run by Stuart Gurr, Stuart also puts together and sells the Supercharger Kits which mine will be based on. 
I have no idea why there is no damper - much cheaper to make without I guess?
 
I have gone around the houses several times on this subject, looking at various options. One was to change the alternator and water pump to multi vee, but I managed to pick up this pulley (unused, second hand for a great price).
 
I have looked at the MED pulleys but they don't do a twin belt pulley.
 
UPDATE
I posted the question regarding Harmonic Dampening on the Classic Mini Turbo and Supercharged FB Group. It would appear that where a twin belt pulley is employed the effect of the two opposing belts (Alternator / Supercharger), achieve the same effect as having a Harmonic Damper fitted.
 

"Opposing belts with acoustically dampened material works fine with no damper, up to the recommended 6500 rpm"[/size]

 

The fact that I fitted the trigger wheel on the outside means that it will need to be dynamically balanced (which it will be), had I fitted it to the inside, this would not have been a problem?

I do not want to "pull the rug out from you" but I trust science and facts. I will do an attempt to describe it in an understandable way. Feel free to put your trust in whateer you want.
 
Harmonic dampers are made to dampen (=reduce movement) in torsion direction, i.e. for the crankshaft. These are supposed to be tuned inertia wise (mass and radii) to work optimal at the torsional eigenmode frequencies for the crankshaft system (crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pulley etc.). They are usually designed with a hub and outer ring connected by a elastomer. The elastomer performs the work by its hysteresis were damping generates heat (usually not more than 15% damping in order to prevent overheating). 
Damping by belts made out of elastomers do contribute but more like a broadband filter acting on all frequencies, i.e. is not tuned at all for the existing crankshaft system. (When designing an harmonic damper as a part of a new engine development, these effects are not even considered) I am fully aware of that people says it is OK to run without an harmonic damper (based on experience). This is true, since a failure will be a failure due to fatigue and not due to overload. I.e. it depends on the number of load cycles. Compare it to bending a copper wire. It works without failure, at least for 1...., 2....,3..., maybe five times. But would you say it works bending it at the same location for 25 times....!?
 
Believe me, i do know what you are facing. I have been down the same path myself. Axial space within the engine mount, I would say is the main issue. My conclusion was that it I could not find a way to fit the Vmax pulley (2-belt) together with a damper and a trigger wheel. I ended up in designing a hub to which I bolted a trigger wheel, a PK5 pulley and an harmonic damper. The hub is based on a pulley from MS (modified in the lathe). For the PK5 pulley I had to grind myself a lathe tool matching the PK profile and thereafter grab my manual lathe and out of an Al bar manufacture the pulley I designed. (I had to design and manufacture the rest of the PK5 pulleys as well). The outer end of this pulley matches the "Cooper S harmonic damper" from MS. So from the crank casing it is the trigger wheel bolted to the hub. From the outside it is the PK5 pulley centering and slides on the hub. The damper is centered by the pulley and bolted through the pulley to the hub, clamping the pulley. All in all, it fits into the engine mount without modifications. I believe this is one way to get around presented issue...

 
I too believe in science Do you happen to have a picture of the hub you made, sounds like an awesome project, but I neither have the tools or the skills to make one? But yes the true answer is put together a single v pulley, a multi vee pulley and a trigger wheel onto a damper.

Don't put yourself down mate, you have a lathe and no doubt measuring tools, work out how your going to do it, buy a piece of alloy and start, take your time, make sure you sequence the work right so you don't need to turn it in the chuck ( presuming you use a 3 jaw, if a 4 jaw turn it as much as you like )and you will be surprised what you can do, the grooves in the pulley could no doubt be made with a modified ie ground single point thread cutting tool.

Shooter

[Java_Green]

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've just read through your thread, very detailed, I have a question, where does the crank dampner fit on?

Shooter

 
The crank damper (or harmonic) is part of the crank pulley, AFIK it is a two part system with rubber in between to iron out the vibrations associated with a 1275 engine. The Crank pulley (and its damper) bolt to the radiator end of the Crank and drive the alternator and water pump. I still have this engine's original crank pulley/damper and it was balanced with the crank, however, as I am now intending to fit a supercharger, I have had to use an alloy twin belt pulley which has no damper. Ho this will affect the engine I do not know.

Yup fully aware of what a crank dampner does, I'm a tad worried that you haven't got one, Spider posted an excellent piece a few days ago on this very subject personally I learned the hard way back in the 80's when I ran an pretty hot engine in my Mk1, but changed the bottom pulley for an un damped 998 one with the idea of less weight faster spin up, guess what happened the engine spat its bearings out, lesson learned and off to the library I went ( no Internet in those days) to learn about torsional vibration, I think you might be able to use a Cooper S type sold by MED and machine your blower drive pulley to fit, MED do a pulley with a trigger wheel built into the rear which would make things nice and compact, you would need to get the assembly balanced though.

Shooter

 
Just read Moke Spider's response you mentioned here
 
The pulley I am using is supplied by Vmaxscart, run by Stuart Gurr, Stuart also puts together and sells the Supercharger Kits which mine will be based on. 
I have no idea why there is no damper - much cheaper to make without I guess?
 
I have gone around the houses several times on this subject, looking at various options. One was to change the alternator and water pump to multi vee, but I managed to pick up this pulley (unused, second hand for a great price).
 
I have looked at the MED pulleys but they don't do a twin belt pulley.
 
UPDATE
I posted the question regarding Harmonic Dampening on the Classic Mini Turbo and Supercharged FB Group. It would appear that where a twin belt pulley is employed the effect of the two opposing belts (Alternator / Supercharger), achieve the same effect as having a Harmonic Damper fitted.
 

"Opposing belts with acoustically dampened material works fine with no damper, up to the recommended 6500 rpm"[/size]

 

The fact that I fitted the trigger wheel on the outside means that it will need to be dynamically balanced (which it will be), had I fitted it to the inside, this would not have been a problem?

I do not want to "pull the rug out from you" but I trust science and facts. I will do an attempt to describe it in an understandable way. Feel free to put your trust in whateer you want.
 
Harmonic dampers are made to dampen (=reduce movement) in torsion direction, i.e. for the crankshaft. These are supposed to be tuned inertia wise (mass and radii) to work optimal at the torsional eigenmode frequencies for the crankshaft system (crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pulley etc.). They are usually designed with a hub and outer ring connected by a elastomer. The elastomer performs the work by its hysteresis were damping generates heat (usually not more than 15% damping in order to prevent overheating). 
Damping by belts made out of elastomers do contribute but more like a broadband filter acting on all frequencies, i.e. is not tuned at all for the existing crankshaft system. (When designing an harmonic damper as a part of a new engine development, these effects are not even considered) I am fully aware of that people says it is OK to run without an harmonic damper (based on experience). This is true, since a failure will be a failure due to fatigue and not due to overload. I.e. it depends on the number of load cycles. Compare it to bending a copper wire. It works without failure, at least for 1...., 2....,3..., maybe five times. But would you say it works bending it at the same location for 25 times....!?
 
Believe me, i do know what you are facing. I have been down the same path myself. Axial space within the engine mount, I would say is the main issue. My conclusion was that it I could not find a way to fit the Vmax pulley (2-belt) together with a damper and a trigger wheel. I ended up in designing a hub to which I bolted a trigger wheel, a PK5 pulley and an harmonic damper. The hub is based on a pulley from MS (modified in the lathe). For the PK5 pulley I had to grind myself a lathe tool matching the PK profile and thereafter grab my manual lathe and out of an Al bar manufacture the pulley I designed. (I had to design and manufacture the rest of the PK5 pulleys as well). The outer end of this pulley matches the "Cooper S harmonic damper" from MS. So from the crank casing it is the trigger wheel bolted to the hub. From the outside it is the PK5 pulley centering and slides on the hub. The damper is centered by the pulley and bolted through the pulley to the hub, clamping the pulley. All in all, it fits into the engine mount without modifications. I believe this is one way to get around presented issue...

 
I too believe in science Do you happen to have a picture of the hub you made, sounds like an awesome project, but I neither have the tools or the skills to make one? But yes the true answer is put together a single v pulley, a multi vee pulley and a trigger wheel onto a damper.

Don't put yourself down mate, you have a lathe and no doubt measuring tools, work out how your going to do it, buy a piece of alloy and start, take your time, make sure you sequence the work right so you don't need to turn it in the chuck ( presuming you use a 3 jaw, if a 4 jaw turn it as much as you like )and you will be surprised what you can do, the grooves in the pulley could no doubt be made with a modified ie ground single point thread cutting tool.

Shooter

 

 

As a comment to equipment....

I consider myself as fortunate - I have a lathe. But it is far from a modern NC controlled one ( I am lacking money and space). Mine is belt driven one with a bed length of less than 1000 mm from 1930-something, i.e. very analogue and could have been more stable. Except from that I used an analogue indicator clock, digital calipers (not far from those you find at Halfords in GB), a pillar drilling machine, a bench grinder, a steel ruler, some drills, my brain and a lot of patience. The PK profile I found on the internet (it is very picky with tight tolerances - be patient!) The lathe tool I grinded myself on the bench grinder. I measured the angle (20 +- 0.5 deg) as good as I could with a ruler then iterated grind-match the tool with a groove in a PK profile wheel towards a lamp-grind and so forth.... Patience! I used a 3 jaw chuck and planned the machining sequence thoroughly. Even though, I needed to make one turn in the chuck and set it up with the indicator clock.

Since I am not always confident in visualizing things I am about to manufacture, I quite often 3D model them. For that I use a Linux machine from 2010 to which I have downloaded a freeware and learned modelling. I find this way rather useful for a lot of the things I am about to manufacture. In my projects it tends to be quite a lot..... I prefer finding "dead ends" virtually, in reality they tend to be costly and take a lot of time (unfortunately I am very restricted time wise as well...)

[JonnyAlpha]

Quick update on a few things that have been going on, I finished the RTS clutch.

 

First job was to drill and tap the rivet holes to M8.

 

 

After cleaning it all up with and Air Line, I started the build, first on the first ring.

 

 

On with the first spring, ensuring that the Flywheel Blot holes are lined up.

 

 

And on with the second spring.

 

 

Then on with the second ring and held everything in place with some M8 bolts through the spacers that were made from the rivets that had been drilled out.

 

 

I then located the lock washers (which are there to act as a shim for the extra spring. Then one by one I inserted the rivet spacers and M8 Allen Bolts, to each bolt I added a dab of Loctite 243.

 

 

And that was the RTS clutch assembled.

 

This Borg and Beck Clutch came supplied balanced with a Lightened Flywheel. When I went to re-attach it to the Flywheel I noticed some play in the locating dowels. 

 

Short video here.

 

As I have modified the clutch I needed to get it re-balanced, on seeking advice regarding the play in the locating dowels, I was advised that this was a concern as the clutch could be slightly off centre. The dowels would need to be corrected to ensure that the clutch could be located in exactly the correct position.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 29 August 2022 - 07:03 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

So as mentioned in my previous post, when fitting the clutch back on the Flywheel, I notice that there was considerable play in the locating dowels. As I understand it, the reason these dowels are here is to ensure that clutch sits centrally and snug to ensure that it remains balanced. 

 

Here is a video showing the play in the Clutch / Flywheel.

 

Flywheel Locating Dowel Play

 

Anyway I sent this and the now modified Crank Pulley off to a reputable Mini Expert to get balance and he said that the clutch locating dowels should not have that movement. It would also appear that the dowels used in this flywheel were also different sizes to each other and a non standard size at that.

He had to send it to a machine shop for a second look.

The machinist could not get the dowels out in the normal manner and had to resort to spot welding on a piece of threaded rod and fabricating a slide hammer.

Once out, custom dowels were made up and fitted.

 

The Clutch / Flywheel were then sent off for balancing.

 

The Clutch and Flywheel balanced fine, however sadly, after all my hard work modifying the Crank Pulley, it could not be balanced. The issue with the Crank Pulley was that there was too much lateral play on the pulley, the second issue was that the keyway was also too large causing circular play. This was confirmed on a couple of CrankShafts. 

 

Both of these issue combined meant that (a) the pulley could not be balanced and (b) my expert warned me NOT to use the crank pulley on my engine.

 

Here are the videos showing the play.

 

Crank Pulley Lateral Play

 

Crank Pulley Keyway Play

 

So the upshot is, I am now without a useable twin belt crank pulley with a trigger wheel, which, if I am to fit a Supercharger to this engine in the future, I still need.

 

Any suggestions

[JonnyAlpha]

So quick follow up on the crank pulley. Iv'e communicated with several people via messages and forum posts and have drawn a blank really regarding getting it SuperCharger ready. 

One piece of advice was to get it on a lathe and centre bore it out, fit a bush and make a new keyway, this is beyond my skill but there is a local machine shop that might do it for me?

I also spoke to Paul Hickey HRE Engineering, he machines trigger wheels into standard Crank Pulleys, but that would still leave me without a way to drive the Supercharger if and when it's fitted. Someone also suggested swapping the crank, water pump and alternator pulleys for multi ribbed versions, this was something I looked at originally however, when fitted to the manifold, the pulley on the SC would be out of line?

Even though I bought the pulley SH, Stuart Gurr has offered to refund me what I paid for it if I send it back.

 

What I am going to do in the mean time is fit the original Crank Pulley, that was fitted to the engine, it was balanced with the crank so should be good. If and when I resolve the twin belt pulley issue, I'll have to remove the radiator and swap the pulleys, not something I wanted to do.

[JonnyAlpha]

So finally some engine updates.

 

I stripped the Clutch and Flywheel apart to fit the friction plate (these don't get fitted for balancing as they can move around).

Once stripped I gave myself a dilemma, the MED ST1 had been supplied with a non sprung friction plate and the Borg and Beck that I bought to nick the spring from for the RTS cam with a sprung plate.

When I measured them I found that the MED supplied plate (also by Borg and Beck) was 180mm, but the sprung plate was 190mm.

 

 

In haste, I decided that the extra friction surface would be better and decided to use it instead.

 

Before assembling the clutch / flywheel assembly, as this has done the rounds between MED and Calver ST, I thought I'd best check the bolts holding the Centre Boss on. I set my Torque Wrench to 50lb ft and they all clicked so that was re-assuring.

 

 

You'll notice that I have marked all the bolts with paint pen to avoid forgetting that they have been torqued.

 

I followed a William Murffit video on assembling it all and he advises assembling it loosely and then putting it on the Flywheel as this centralises the friction plate in the pressure plates. I then took each bolt out one by one and added some loctite and the using a star pattern nipped up and torqued the clutch to flywheel bolts to 18lb ft

 

 

I then set about torquing down the Flywheel and for some reason only did this to 111Nm, should have been 111lb /ft (but see below)? I didn't have much time so that's all I did that session, but something was niggling me and I didn't bend over the Lock Tabs.

 

Intuition proved to be a good thing and having received an email answering some questions from Kieth Calver (Calver ST), I decided that the next session would involve removing the Flywheel, splitting the Clutch assembly and swapping the sprung plate for the fixed one. Kieth also gave me a better way of tightening the Flywheel bolt and that 135lb ft was the correct torque figure.

 

So the following day it was remove, strip down, correct and reassemble.

 

Out cam the MiniSport  Heavy Duty Puller.

 

 

Owing to the fact that I had used Loctite, everything needed cleaning.

 

 

Once everything was cleaned it was re-assemble time.

 

 

 

This time with the non sprung plate.

 

 

The keen eyed amongst you will notice in the picture above, on the friction plate it says 'Gearbox Side', this can be pretty confusing and many people (including myself) get confused trying to understand which way around the friction plate fits. On a Mini Engine the gearbox is underneath, so the stamp is irrelevant. IIRC the spline should protrude on the underside and it is this side that sits innermost (as in towards the engine). I struggled to find any images online but in this video on how to make an RTS clutch by Stuart Gurr (Vmaxscart), you can see the orientation.http://https://www.y...h?v=k9Rh3Uiw18c

  

 

Then back on the Crank Shaft and everything bolted up starting with the Clutch Pressure Plate to Flywheel at 18lb /ft and then the Flywheel Bolt.

Torqued to 135lb / ft and then the boss struck with a Nylon hammer ) used a piece of flat brass to avoid damage.

Then repeat twice.

Next down with the Lock Tabs.

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 15 February 2023 - 07:42 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Bit more of an update.

 

My son popped up in the summer and helped me remove the Subframe, whilst he was here we discussed the colour combination I had gone for.

I explained and showed him that the engine would be gloss black / shiny metal bits, with blue hoses and HT leads and that the engine bay would be body colour (Almond Green).

Being art trained, he advised me that the colour combination was wrong and told me to ditch anything blue!!

 

So I bought black silicone cooling hoses and black HT leads (extra cost, but I can sell the blue ones).

 

So before the engine build continued I had to try and swap the bypass hose, I really didn't want to remove the water pump!!

Anyway, luckily there was just enough play in it to pull it off and fit the new black on.

 

 

Jubilee clips not done up yet, I know.

 

Now onto the Timing Plate. I rechecked that the Cam Shaft Nut had been torqued up and folded over the lock tabs. I fitted the Oil Splash Plate and after putting Hylomar on the rear of the gasket, it was fitted and then Hylomar Blue applied to the front side.

 

 

After the solvent in the Hylomar had flashed off, using the Crank Pulley as a guide, I fitted the Timing Case.

As the Supercharger Pulley was not being fitted and because I may need to modify the SC timing case, I decided to fit the first one I modified that has the DIY flattened breather.

 

 

I had bought a new Crank Pulley Bolt, but it didn't fit, seems I may have bought an A Series one and not an A+?

The one in the pic is the original after being cleaned up.

 

This is also the original crank pulley that was fitted to this engine, it was sent to MED Engineering with the crank for balancing.  

 

Then on went the Fan and the bolts torqued up.

 

 

You can see iin the pic I have marked the crank pulley with the torque figure 75lb ft, I have not however folded the lock tabs yet.

 

Back to the flywheel side, rather than fit a new Top Hat, I decided to use the original with its plastic sleeve.

 

 

Then after fitting the Clutch Release Plunger and 'O' Ring, I test fitted the WOK.

 

 

All seems nice and snug and looking through the inspection cover, there is plenty of clearance with the low profile head bolts from John Guess.

The MED Flywheel / Clutch did not come with low profile bolts and on testing scuffed the inside of the WOK. Once the flywheel was torqued on, they may have cleared but it would have been close.

 

 

So that's it for now, apart from saying that, I have just removed the trigger wheel from the Vmaxscart Pulley and have packed it up and posted it back to Stuart Gurr. 

[gazza82]

That bypass hose looks a bit short ..

[JonnyAlpha]

That bypass hose looks a bit short ..

It’s got the extra long, pipe fitted to the cylinder head and the hose is not pulled up yet in that pic.

[JonnyAlpha]

Well after much faffing around, the new twin belt crank pulley is with me, these new ones by Vamxscart come black anodised with 36 holes 5mm threaded holes in the rear. These are for 35 steel grub screws that are used by the Crank Trigger sensor, in lieu of a trigger wheel.

 

 

 

The location of these triggers mean that a different sensor will be required. The one I have been told to use is an MPI, originally designed to sit behind in the opening in the transfer case and monitor the flywheel rotations.

 

This is a pic sent to me of one by Stuart Gurr VMaxscart, he has attached it to an aluminium angle bracket, which is supposed to mount on the timing case:

 

 

 

Compared to the previous twin belt pulley I had (which I had all the trouble with) this one fits great, no lateral movement and absolute minimal rotational move on the keyway.

 

https://i.imgur.com/Fnqklcl.mp4

 

I now needed to mark TDC on the pulley, so using my DIY piston stop, I tightened up the pulley with a Crank Bolt and positioned a piece of wire, in line with the timing case TDC mark.

 

 

I then rotated in clockwise until the piston hit the stop, marked the pulley, then rotated the pulley (using the flyhweel), anti clockwise and marked the pulley again.

 

 

Then using a piece of paper place around the circumference of the pulley, I transferred and measure the distance between the marks. 

 

 

Turned out to be 22mm so 1/2 way and true TDC would be at 11mm.

So I then put a slight cut in the pulley with a stanley blade and a dab of paint to mark TDC.

 

 

After doing this I realised I needed to use my other Timing Case, the one without the Breather, so I'll need to take care when chaging these to ensure the TDC on the pulley lines up with the new timing case.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 01 January 2023 - 06:55 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

The next update was that I have now received my ECU. I have opted for a Speeduino, a great little DIY ECU that sits on top of an Arduino, a hobby electronics / programmable computer.

 

I could have bought a kit and soldered everything together and saved myself £30 - £40 but I wanted to avoid troubleshooting a problem caused by a faulty component. So I had one made up, that also comes with some support.

 

 

I need to make some adjustments to the wiring loom and want to ensure that any new wiring is included and not left to run separate. So, a lot of research will be needed.

I need to add wiring to power the ECU and add wiring for the crank sensor and fuel pump for one. It has also been recommended to power the Fuel Pump from a relay.

 

After some hunting around and asking questions I did manage to get hold of a couple of useful bits of information. Firstly the 24 PIn Connector Pinout for the ECU.

 

 

The ECU needs a 12v fused supply switched from the ignition.

 

I then managed to get hold of a wiring diagram for the NO2C, this one include injectors and several other bits which I wont need. It does however show the Fuel Pump and the Fuel Pump Relay.

 

 

 

In this version I have omitted the Injector Relay and run the 12v switched supply to the Fuel Pump Relay Pin 86 (hoping this is correct)

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 23 January 2023 - 09:51 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Now that the Crank Pulley is marked up, I can set about fitting the Crank Sensor. This is an MPI sensor as shown in a previous post.

 

According to Stuart Gurr, who I believe came up with this idea for a crank trigger on a Supercharger Twin Belt Pulley, the bracket needs to be mounted so it sits at about 10 degrees clockwise from the TDC mark on the pulley. To achieve this I needed to fabricate a bracket. The plan being that the bracket would be bolted to the timing cover.

 

This is a sketch of the bracket:

 

 

And this is a sketch showing where it needs to be mounted:

 

 

From Stuart's sketch I mad a plan and a cardboard template:

 

 

It will sit something like this:

 

 

Found some 2mm steel for the bracket:

 

 

And cut it out

 

:

 

Using the milling modifications on a mini lathe I squared off the metal:

 

 

Before bending and drilling a couple of holes ready to make the cut out for the sensor:

 

 

Here's the initial shape (the cut outs in the middle are to allow the sensor to sit lower down otherwise it is too high):

 

 

And after some fine tuning:

 

 

I then marked, drilled and elongated a couple of holes to bolt the sensor to the bracket. You can see in this picture that metal plate around the sensor need reducing, so that it sits flat on the timing cover:

 

 

So a couple of swipes with a file:

 

 

I had to trim the lower edge in the pic above to allow for the rise in the timing cover and with a lot of fine fettling managed to get the sensor in the correct position in relation to the pulley. perpendicular to the edge of the pulley with the sensor prong located at 10 degrees after TDC. I also spaced the sensor away from the bracket using some additional washers, this was to try and get more of the bracket onto the timing cover as there is not a lot of room for screws to hold it on.

 

 

It's quite difficult to identify whether the prong is in the correct position. I believe it needs to be under the grub screw, as opposed to at its outer edge?

 

To hold the bracket onto the timing cover I believe I need to drill and weld in a couple of 3mm button head screws onto which the bracket would sit. The timing cover is thin and the last thing I need is a screw coming loose inside, so after contemplating this for a while I came up with another idea.

 

I decided to fabricate an additional piece for the bracket that would be secured using the screws around the outer edge of the timing cover. Once made up the existing bracket would be welded to it.

 

For this bracket I needed something a little more substantial, so I opted for some 3mm steel. I started off by making a standoff, profiled to the curve of the cover:

 

 

The above piece was trimmed a little more to allow some front to back adjustment. Next using a slight shorter piece of the same steel, I tac welded part of it in place:

 

 

Then I bent the upright to follow the profile tacked and completed the welding:

 

 

To aid welding, the edge of upright was chamfered, I also put some weld on the backside to be safe.

 

 

Then I dressed down the welds and tried it for a fit.

 

 

Next session I'll cut the upright flush with the top edge of the timing cover and then position the sensor bracket and prepare to weld the two pieces together. 

 

Slow going, but getting there. 

 

Target is Beaulieu 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 30 January 2023 - 08:28 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

A little more progress on the crank sensor bracket. 

 

Decided to use the DIY Milling Attachment on my lathe to mill down the excess weld where the bolts will sit and make an opening to allow one of the bolts to sit correctly.

 

 

I have decided to get a 5/16" Allen Head bolt, but had an 8mm to check fit.

 

 

Then once it was temporarily bolted in place I offered up the top bracket to ascertain how and where to join the two pieces. 

 

 

Once I had the bracket in the correct location it was time to spot weld it in place:

 

 

Time for some welding, to strengthen it all up:

 

 

And after some more welding, grinding and filing:

 

 

The 5/16" bolt will get replaced with an allun head bolt as you can only get a spanner on it. I used the 5/16 flanged bolt just to hold this in place, not sure what's supposed to go here, is it the alternator tensioner? 

 

The sensor is slightly off of the intended location but it's still ok.

 

 

The sensor is in a pretty good position and is adjustable to fine tune it.