457 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Well, back at it today!!

 

I started off by taking the head off and timing cover (which was only temporally in place), this was to try and identify the worrying sound experienced after fitting the Rocker Assembly.

 

The head looked fine, as did the pistons, however when I removed the Timing Cover the issue was revealed. I had completely forgotten about a label that I had tied in place to remind me to check the Cam Nut Torque and bend the Lock Tabs. This was a piece of old cereal packet (Alpen), tied on with Para Cord. The remnants of which can be seen in these two images:

 

 

 

The resistance must have been the string tightening and the 'clunk' it breaking.

 

I cleaned it all out and blew it through with an Air Gun.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 28 May 2022 - 11:44 AM.

[JonnyAlpha]

More progress yesterday. 

 

The new Thermostat Gaskets arrived, if you recall, as the top face of the head had been skimmed, I needed two. 

 

 

The studs are stainless, so they have been fitted with a smear of Copper Grease.

The cut out on the gasket is facing the front.

 

I used Hylomar Blue, on the each side of each gasket and after some consultation on Torque figures, found the answer in the Haynes manual - 11 Nm.

 

 

 

Another job that I managed was a job I had overlooked. As I am fitting a new (Dual Belt) Pulley, I needed to mark on it Top Dead Centre (TDC), in relation to a position on the engine.

After some consultation on line I had a rough idea of what to do.

 

So I fitted the Crank Pulley into the Timing Cover and locating the woodruff key, I slipped it in place. I secured the cover with a couple of 5/16" Bolts.

 

 

I also realised that the Timing Cover I was using still had the timing teeth on it, so these will be the reference for marking the pulley (after finding TDC of course).

 

 

I believe the marks are for 0, 4 and 8 degrees before TDC.

 

As I had already fitted and torqued down the head, I fashioned up a bracket to hold the DTI Gauge sufficiently down the spark plug hole to be in reach of the top of the piston.

 

 

Then winding the flywheel anti clockwise, I located TDC and zero'd the gauge.

 

 

I also then marked the pulley in line with the first tooth.

 

 

Next I rotated the flywheel clockwise, to reverse the engine and again brought piston No 1 to TDC, marking the pulley again (albeit right next to the first mark.

 

 

I then made a cut directly half way between the two marks with a junior hacksaw and added some paint.

 

 

I have since been advised to do this again marking 20 degrees before and 20 degrees after TDC (with a pen) and taking the half way point between these two as TDC. This is to account for Dwell angle?

[sonscar]

Yes,use before and after tdc to find true position,Steve..

[JonnyAlpha]

Yes,use before and after tdc to find true position,Steve..

 

Can be done with the DTI gauge setup that I have above, i.e by finding TDC as I have done above but then rotating the engine clockwise and then anti clockwise until the gauge reads 20 degrees before and 20 degrees after and finding halfway, or is the Stop Method more precise (Using a bolt inside a modified spark plug?).

[JonnyAlpha]

So after I posted up on FB reference how to find true TDC and making my first mark, I was advised to try the stop method, as mentioned above and explained in this video.

 

 

So I fabricated a bolt holder out of an old Spark Plug.

 

Spark plug in the vice, with the first cut made at the base of the curved area above the hexagon.

 

 

Cut off the rest of the ring.

 

 

Then cut off the electrode.

 

 

Then tap the guts out.

 

 

Clean up and stick in a suitably sized bolt, I only had a short one and secured it in place with two nuts and washers.

 

I then checked how close it would be to an opening valve using another head with the same size valve seats. This was causing me some problems as well as getting the depth correct, then I worked out a rotation where I could rotate the head both clockwise and anti clockwise without the inlet valve getting in the way. 

 

 

Here it is in the Cylinder Head.

 

 

Here you can see the two stop marks, half of this is True TDC, which was slightly to the left of the existing mark.

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 04 June 2022 - 10:25 AM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Pre Jubilee Update 

Had an afternoon / late evening in the garage yesterday and achieved quite a lot, however during which I realised that I would have to do the TDC check once again as the Crank Pulley has a bit of sideways movement on it and I did not take that into account when I took it apart 

 

Next job was to fit the Gear Box, before doing so I rechecked the torque on the Con Rod bolts and Main Caps. Took me a bit of time because, even thought I see it every so often, when I needed it, I could not find the ARP Con Rod bolt spec sheet.

 

I had a search on the internet and I am pretty sure it's this kit I bought, the MED ARP 11/32 A & B Series Conrod Bolt Kit and here are the instructions. I also found the relevant section in my build manual that I have been editing along the way. The ARP instructions state 35ft/lb. The Main Bearing Caps are stock so I used the torque figure in the Rover Repair Manual which is 65lb/ft / 88Nm.

 

On went the oil seal.

 

 

I used Hylomar Blue on the Gaskets and applied a bead of RTV on the End Cap where the Half Moon Seal would go.

 

Then on went the half moon seal.

 

 

I then applied the same amount of RTV black on top of the Half Moon Seal and it was time to say goodbye to the inside of the engine

I then kissed each Con Rod and each Main Cap!!

 

 

 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

So on went the Gear Box. Even though I had a Gearbox to Block Nut and Bolt Kit, I still seemed to be missing a couple of bolts?

 

 

 

 

Had to use a swivel joint in a couple of places with the socket and Torque wrench and in a couple places only a ring spanner would fit.

 

 

I had a couple of minutes before dinner so decided to fit the Water Pump, I then realised you should never rush anything!!

 

 

I'd forgotten the connecting pipe!!

 

All sorted.

 

 

In between these jobs I was treated to a Cornish Cream Tea.

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Next job was the Primary Gear End Float, this is the clearance, or the amount of front to back movement, of the Primary Gear on the Crank Shaft Tail.

Too much and the Primary Gear will rattle and cause problems, too little and the Primary Gear could seize!!

 

I started off using all of the original cleaned up parts. First on is the Shim, which is installed with the chamfered edge up again the block.

 

 

Next on the Primary Gear, being careful not to scratch the bushes on the Crank.

 

 

Then on with the Backing Ring and C Washer.

 

 

As with the Idler Gear, the measurements need to be taken using two Feeler Gauges, one on either side, otherwise you could get a false reading.

 

I first measured using the old C Clip and the clearance was 0.006” - 0.0065”, which, according to the specs in the Rover Repair Manual (shown below), is right on the edge of the larger spec, so too much really. I have also been advised that for this engine with A+ Helical Gears I need to aim for 0.004" for longevity.

 

 

On one side the original C washer is worn where it butts up against the face of the slotted area in the Crank, this wear is caused by the Primary Gear being forced up against the Backing Ring whenever the Clutch Pedal is depressed. If the C Washer is smooth on the other side it can be rotated so that the new flat surface is facing the Flywheel. With the C Washer rotated, as suggested, the gap measured less at 0.0045” to a tight 0.005”, still slightly too much though.

 

So, after taking some advice, I ordered a new C washer from MiniMine and in a few days I tried again. 

 

I stripped and cleaned everything again to check it dry. With the new C Washer I got 0.006” one way around and 0.005” and 0.0055” the other, it turns out that the new C Washers are slightly thinner . When measuring I also noticed that one side seemed slightly tighter than the other, this is common when re-busing the Primary Gear and it is suggested to take the lower reading as the reference. As a result of this discrepancy I decided to measure everything and the results can be seen below.

 

 

The old C Clip is 0.124” and the new C Clip is 0.1235” The backing ring is 0.157” and the shim is 0.1185”.

What I also hadn't noticed before was the sloppiness of the backing ring (video below).

 

https://youtu.be/8n7udAUp-bc

 

I don't believe there should be this much play, so I considered ordering a new one, however I also spoke to a local (ish) contact who, as it turned out may have spare originals that should help out.

 

So the issues that I have, IMHO, are excessive movement in the Backing Ring, a C Washer which is worn on one side and the requirement to decrease the existing clearance by 0.002".

 

So in order to resolve these and hit a clearance of 0.004", I am hopefully getting a Backing Ring with a slightly smaller Internal Diameter and a Shim that is 0.002" wider.

 

Update to follow.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 05 June 2022 - 01:27 PM.

[alex-95]

 

 

In between these jobs I was treated to a Cornish Cream Tea.

 

Cream First! Definitely the wrong way round

Remind me tomorrow to check the thrust washers etc

[GraemeC]

So on went the Gear Box. Even though I had a Gearbox to Block Nut and Bolt Kit, I still seemed to be missing a couple of bolts?

 

 

Which ones were missing?  It is normal to use two studs and nuts above the diff housing as set screws are difficult to get in - maybe you got two screws in here hence had two missing elsewhere?

[KTS]

as far as i'm aware the two holes you're referencing are unused - there's two equivalent holes on the rear side of the casing for locating pins that are fitted to the engine block, but no pins on the front side.

[JonnyAlpha]

as far as i'm aware the two holes you're referencing are unused - there's two equivalent holes on the rear side of the casing for locating pins that are fitted to the engine block, but no pins on the front side.

 

Do you mean these two holes here?

 

[KTS]

 

as far as i'm aware the two holes you're referencing are unused - there's two equivalent holes on the rear side of the casing for locating pins that are fitted to the engine block, but no pins on the front side.

 

Do you mean these two holes here?

 

 

 

yes

[JonnyAlpha]

Next job was the Oil Pump, I got the gasket ready and worked out which way around everything went again.

 

A bit of assembly lube on the back of the gasket.

 

 

 

 

I primed the Oil Pump with Assembly Lube and slotted it in place, put some Loctite Thread Lock on the bolts and did them up and Torqued them up to the appropriate setting (11Nm).  

 

 

So, replacement backing ring and shim have turned up so I fitted them and checked the clearance. This time I get between 0.003" and 0.004" so that's on the money.

 

So now that that was all ready to go I cleaned everything up and slapped on some Graphogen (recommended by AC Dodd to be used when re-busing Primary Gears).

I then realised that the Primary Gear needed a bit more cleaning up so did that. Then thought I'd better check the oilways from the outside of the primary gear to the inside. I remembered I had some Pipe Cleaners that I used for the Crank Oilways. I sprayed the pipe cleaner end with some WD40 and low and behold, yep it needed to be cleaned!!

 

 

After a final spray with brake cleaner and a blow through with the compressor, good as new.

 

 

I lubed everything up and installed it all and rechecked the clearance, just to be sure.

 

 

 

 

Next up was the transfer case, sorted out the bolts and stud nuts. I am using a mix of new flanged bolts on the inside and studs and non flanged bolts in the outside.

 

 

I then could not remember the Torque Settings and was a little unclear with the settings in the Rover Repair Manual, thi only refers to 5/16 UNF and UNC Studs and Nuts, it does not mention Flanged Bolts. So a quick post up of FB and after several replies, some of which were dubious), John Guess replied with 18Nm on both.

 

I tried fitting a bolt in the hole shown without a fastener below but there is not enough room? Maybe a stud is needed?

 

 

I know this bracket is the on incorrectly, but I don't have the correct length studs :-(

 

 

Should be these studs:

 

http://www.minispare...ic/CHS2514.aspx

 

Next thing I did was modify the lower radiator bracket, this needed to be done as with the Twin Belt Crank Pulley and Trigger Wheel there is not enough room to enable a fan belt to be changed.

 

So a quick whip with an Angle Grinder.

 

 

And some mixed epoxy paint hand brushed on (Etch Primed First).

 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Now that the Transfer Case is on, I needed to get the Oil Seal in.

 

 

To do this I purchased the special tool for the job.

First I put some lubricant on the Primary Gear to aid slipping on the tool.

 

 

Then I put a mall amount of lube on the outside of the tool to help the oil seal.

 

 

Now you slip the outer part of the tool on.

 

 

 

Now using a nylon hammer I gently drove the tool down and in turn this pushes the seal into position.

A quick check and a little more tapping and the tone will change telling you that the recess inside the outer tool has hit home, this will ensure the seal is slightly recessed.

 

 

 

After removing the seal tool, on went the dust cover.

 

 

Next I fitted the Med ST1 clutch and lightened flywheel.

 

 

Next the slotted washer.

 

 

And on went the new Flywheel Bolt with it's built in lock washer.