457 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

So, I decided that May was the month to get this engine in and finished, so I looked at all the spare time I had and allocated achievable tasks to those days. I explained to my family that I would be tied up all month and everything was going well, but then it appeared that, as usual, no one was paying any attention to what I said and have planned other things for me  Oh well, let's see how we get on.

 

Here are some of the jobs I have recently achieved.

 

Rocker Assembly

 

I was planning on a set of AC Dodds Zero Tolerance 1.28, however I have since found out that he now only does the 1.3's and theses are around £300? They are still produce by Thomson Classic and Modern and are £200 a set, so I will now have to wait. 

In the mean time it looks like I will have to go with the stock Rocker Assembly.

 

It has not been touched since I removed it from the donor engine.

 

 

First job, remove the split pin from one end of the assembly:

 

 

Then strip everything:

 

 

One of the two middle studs is held in with a grub screw.

 

Once apart I started by inspecting the rockers themselves.

 

 

One in particular had a significant mark on it from the valve stem, this would need addressing.

 

 

First job, clean everything up in what is now a very expensive cleaning solution - PETROL.

 

 

 

And a scrub with a soft metal brush.

Back to the rockers, with the worst one, I started with some wet and dry / oil on a flat surface.

 

 

But ended up going with a wet stone and then progressively less aggressive Wet n Dry 400, 600, 1200, 1500.

 

 

 

Then all the other Rockers were cleaned up with just Wet and Dry paper.

 

 

Then everything got stripped and cleaned with petrol again and thinners.

 

 

 

And just as I was about to ditch the dirty solvent, I realise there was a crucial piece missing, the grub screw:

 

 

I left the rocker post and springs etc, as I have a Mini Spares upgraded rocker shaft and a spacer set. The shaft has seen better days anyway.

 

 

I guess I could have gone to the length of re-bushing the rockers, but as these are only temporary and the cost involved in re-furbing what are only 1.21 ratio rockers? It's just not worth the expense.

[JonnyAlpha]

Next job was to take my old Timing Cover and modify it to prevent the breather fouling on the Supercharger Belt.

 

It's in a bit of a state, which I why I originally picked up another better SH one.

 

 

Some bad pitting in a few areas leading to thinning and a hole.

 

 

So off came the breather.

 

 

And ground down the oil thrower area as it would foul on the Duplex Chain.

 

 

I had to open out the hole as the original pipes appear to be brazed in place and this would affect the welding.

 

 

I also drilled through the thinned hole to make welding it easier.

 

 

I made up a patch and spot welded it in place, before welding it all around.

 

 

 

Seems overkill, but I decided to raise the level by welding all over.

 

 

Here's the hole on the edge all welded and dressed back and the area where the breather was finished.

 

 

 

Oh I had also cut off and cleaned the bracket installed by the factory for tuning.

 

Last job was beat down the bump in the cover, as this would also foul on the Duplex Chain / Gears.

 

 

Next job, paint!  

 

 

 

 

[JonnyAlpha]

So, after cleaning and prepping the timing cover, I cleaned up the remaining few pieces that needed painting.

Epoxy Primer and Epoxy Top Coat.

 

 

Here's the finished Timing Cover.

 

 

The following day I stripped and cleaned up the brake parts, but decided I would need to fit the seals before painting, but had not Brake Lubricant so I ordered some Permatex.

 

 

The next job was to remove the timing chain and gears again to carry out some checks. I could not remember whether I have checked that the oil pump bolts to ensure that they were not too long and that the oil pump span freely once the timing gear was fitted.

 

This is a MED oil pump.

 

 

I inserted the bolt until it stopped and then checked the length which was 28.86mm.

 

 

I then measured the width of the oil pump, which was 28.87mm, so pretty close. To make sure the bolts don't bottom out, I could grind off the end of the bolt or fit a washer.

I decided to fit a 1/4 UNF washer.

 

 

Although this is an unused oil pump, I checked the tolerance between the pump face and found it was between 0.003" - 0.0035".

 

 

The inside face of the of the pump cover has not been machined, but hopefully being a MED pump it should be well made.

 

 

When refitting the pump, I had some trouble finding out the correct orientation, I couldn't either find any reference to how it should be fitted, apart from a note in the Haynes manual.

 

 

So looking at the oil way holes, the stains on the face and the inside of the pump, it would appear that the semicircle in the outer edge of the pump lined up with the upper most hole in the block.

 

 

Once I refitted the pump I replaced the Cam Gear and rotated the pump, all seemed fine.

 

I refitted all of timing gear and as I had disturbed everything, after work today, I re-checked the timing.

First job was to rotate the crank clockwise a few time, then using a DTI gauge I found TDC and after hunting for and fitting the degree wheel and a piece of wire as a pointer, I rotated the degree wheel to "Top".

 

 

Next I inserted a push rod into piston 1 inlet cam follower hole and shifted the DTI gauge onto it and found the upper most length of travel and zero'd the DTI.

Then I rotated the engine clockwise 5 degrees and read the degree disc, then anti clockwise back to zero and on another 5 degrees and read the degree disc again.

 

I did this four times, noting the readings.

 

 

Reading 1 + Reading 2 divided by 2 gives you the Cam timing.

The results averaged out at:

119.125 and 92.

 

119.125 + 92 = 211.125

 

211.125 / 2 = 105.56

 

Which according to AC Dodd, who supplied the AC RS Cam, is pretty much on the money.

 

Once the brake lube arrives, I'll fit the brake seals and paint the calipers, 

[JonnyAlpha]

So today I was planning on fitting the timing cover, however I spent an hour looking for a non existent Oil Seal.

I did find this one, but it was in a box of random bits and its not new.

 

 

I also needed to find out what the correct socket is for the Cam Nut (I think 1 5/16").

Also I needed to find which way up the nut went, turns out the raised side is a thrust face so this needs to go towards the gear.

 

 

My brake grease turned up, so I can build and then paint the calipers.

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Been a busy weekend with family so no real progress until today when I took the plunge and decided to tackle the Idler Gear Bearings and the Nose  Bearing on the Main Shaft in the Gearbox.

 

There don't appear to any video guides on installing these parts, but I had enough info to do it. 

 

First up I made sure I had all the new parts (the last few bits from the Guess-Works Gearbox Rebuild Kit).

 

 

 

I got a few tools ready and worked out which parts to do first.

 

 

I bagged up the two Idler Bearings and the Nose Bearing Sleeve and popped them in the bottom draw of the freezer, this would help to shrink the bearing outers.

 

I worked out some pieces of timber to support the underside of the Idler Gear Housing in the Transfer Case.

 

 

 

First job was to clean the housings with Brake Cleaner and blow everything out with a compressed air. 

 

Using the Hot Air Gun I heated up the gear housing and using an Infra Red temp gauge (a tip from a couple of Mini colleagues), checked it until it was around 90 degrees C.

 

I used a Bearing Punch along with an additional steel shim to strike the outer edge of the old bearing placed on top of the new bearing, gently at first to get its started and square. Even with the cooling and the heat, it needed a fair old whack to get it in. Once it's located the tone of the hitting changes. 

 

Next job was the Nose Bearing Sleeve. For this I used the same procedure of heating the area, I also used the old sleeve to protect the new sleeve.

 

 

 

 

The sleeve needs to be driven past the recess for the retaining clip.

 

 

Then on with the retaining clip.

 

 

Next up the Idler Bearing in the Gearbox itself.

 

I had planned on using a piece of threaded bar to pull it into place but that proved non effective and started to pull the bearing in "******* eyed", so I ended up knocking it in. I used some heat and froze the bearing. I used a socket on the outer sleeve of the bearing, and gently tapped it to get it started straight. 

 

Annoyingly this one went in numbers first!!

 

 

 

Next job was the nose bearing, for this I oiled up the shaft and used a socket on the outer bearing sleeve, gentle taps to get it straight and started and then a bi more force to get it fully home.

 

 

 

After getting the bearing on, the circlip needs to be fitted,

 

 

Oh and before I forgot, I knocked off the tangs on the Helicoils that I fitted ages ago.

 

 

A quick clean up and oil and tried out the Idler Gear.

 

 

Next job Cam End Float and Idler Gear End Float.

[sonscar]

I would be wary that you have sanded through the hardening on the rocker tip,if you have rapid failure and metal filings in the new motor may be the result.Just an observation,Steve..

[JonnyAlpha]

I would be wary that you have sanded through the hardening on the rocker tip,if you have rapid failure and metal filings in the new motor may be the result.Just an observation,Steve..

 

Iv'e not built up the Rocker yet, can I re-harden them?

[sonscar]

Not experienced enough to say,same as most things it probably can be done but they are a hard worked part and failure could be be very poor for the motors health.Steve..

[stuart bowes]

isn't hardening done by heating and quenching in oil

 

surely a new rocker can't be all that expensive.  cheaper than potential repairs for sure

 

other than that though been enjoying reading the updates and nice detailed pictures etc

Edited by stuart bowes, 16 May 2022 - 10:08 PM.

[sonscar]

I think they are induction hardened using some electrical gadget,often you can see the edges are blue,Steve..

[Spherix]

 

Is that a used bearing? For a brand new item I'd not be expecting what looks like scoring marks on those rollers..

[JonnyAlpha]

 

Is that a used bearing? For a brand new item I'd not be expecting what looks like scoring marks on those rollers..

 

Brand new, oil and prob a bit of dust?

[sky gipsy]

I would be wary that you have sanded through the hardening on the rocker tip,if you have rapid failure and metal filings in the new motor may be the result.Just an observation,Steve..

I recently fitted a set of AC's zero tollerence 1.3 rockers.  Since fitting them he has produced a facinating set of vidoes on his youtube chanel showing most of how they are produced (while keeping a little of his valuable knowledge back behind off camera, can't blame him) and I am sure he said that the tips are through hard so if thats the case, you're OK.

Edited by sky gipsy, 23 May 2022 - 06:15 PM.

[JonnyAlpha]

Managed a few jobs that I have not documented yet. Cam Gear End Float, this needs checking to ensure that the Cam cannot wander too much.

With a DTI gauge mounted on the Cam Gear and pulled upwards I set the DTI to '0', then I pushed the Cam Gear down and read the difference.

 

 

 

I have between 0.003" and 0.004" End Float.

Then I torqued up the Cam Gear and labelled it up.

 

 

 

Had a delivery also from P&L Minis, a set of Fletcher Silicone Hoses.

 

 

Test fitted the bottom hose and it seemed a bit odd, the radiator and the hose seem to be pointing in opposite directions? It will pull around but is something wrong?

 

 

Also any idea what the small hose that sticks out of the top hose connect to?

 

 

New seal arrived for the Timing Case, so I installed it using a bearing and Seal installation kit.

 

 

 

Next job, Idler Gear End Float.

 

First up I have a few gaskets, so I measured them and wrote down thier thickness.

 

 

 

The green one is 0.0281"

 

 

The brown one was 0.0315"

 

Before checking the Idler Gear End Float, I had to sort out the bolts and studs for the Transfer Case to Gearbox.

 

 

I got a bit confused, as I had bought a Clutch Case to Block Kit and also three extra bolts.

 

Here are all the studs fitted.

 

 

With the studs in the kit from MSC, you are supplied with standard nuts and lock washers. After speaking to Keith Calver, he recommends that these should be replaced with flat washers and nylock nuts. You can also fit the flanged bolts and use Loctite.

 

I still had some of the original bolts that I pulled from this A+ Metro Engine and had them re plated, so I decided to use Studs on the outside and bolts on the inside on the thought that a nut is more likely to come off an cause damaged than a whole bolt.

 

I tried the brown / orange gasket first.

 

 

I bolted up the transfer case and torqued up the bolts / nuts to 18 lb/ft and measured the idler gear clearance. The idea is to use 2 x feeler gauges this way you get a more accurate reading.

 

I had between 0.009" and 0.010" with this gasket and needed about 0.004".

 

I then checked with the green gasket and then had about 0.006".

 

My shims measure 0.131" and 0.137", so I needed to swap the smaller one for a 0.133" to get the extra 0.002".

 

  

 

[JonnyAlpha]

Whilst waiting for the Idler Gear Shim, no rest as there are loads of other jobs to do.

 

As I cannot afford a set of 1.3 or 1.28 Zero Tolerance Rockers, I would have to do with the old ones refurbished. 

I bought a new Rocker Shaft (The upgraded one) ages ago, along with a Spacer Kit, thinking it would be a good idea, it transpires that they are not as good as they are advertised.

 

 

I followed the instructions and built up the Rocker Assembly, starting with the large shim in the middle.

 

 

This was the finished product.

 

 

I had to clean up and fit the pushrods first, with some Cam Lube on the end that meets the follower.

 

 

Before fitting the Rockers Assembly, I lubed up and inserted the Push Rods. I put Cam Lube on both ends.

 

 

Bit of a jiggle to get them on.

 

 

Before fitting the rockers I put some build lube in the top dishes of the push rods and wound out all the valve adjusters.

 

 

 

Apart from the two centre exhaust valve rockers, even with the spacers, the positioning on the valves is not great, even after stripping it again and adding some and moving shims.

 

 

 

 

Also there is a heck of a lot of play, as seen in this video.

 

https://youtube.com/...A?feature=share

 

After speaking to KC, he suggested re-using the springs and also gave me some instructions on a better method of assembling the rocker assembly.

 

Here's the setup:

 

Spilt Pin

Large Washer

Exhaust Rocker

Flat Spring

Rocker Post

Inlet Rocker

Spacer Spring

Inlet Rocker

Rocker Post

AEG168 0.040" shim 

Exhaust Rocker

Spacer Spring

Exhaust Rocker

AEG168 0.040" shim

Rocker Post with locating screw

Inlet Rocker

Spacer Spring

Inlet Rocker

Rocker Post

Flat Spring

Exhaust Rocker

Large Washer

Split Pin

 

 

 

The pencils denote the location of the 0.040" shims.

 

Here are the results of the re jig.

 

 

I bolted the head down and torqued up all the nuts, but when spinning the crank there was some resistance, a clunk, then it span freely. I am thinking this was either a twisted spring freeing up, a rocker seat and pushrod re-aligning or something like that. Anyway I will be stripping, checking and re-assembling.

 

Stay tuned..........

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 29 May 2022 - 11:56 AM.