54 replies to this topic

[Jase]

Or you could sell the 1275 engine to fund the other one, they are worth quite a bit more.

[JonnyAlpha]

looks like you already have electronic ignition there.

 

Mmm, I hadn't removed the Dizzy Cap, I have two of these. I'll take a look? Where they fitted as standard on Mk2 Metros?

 

Just found this - looks like it's got an ignition module located on the top side of the dizzy?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 02 February 2019 - 09:47 AM.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

looks like you already have electronic ignition there.

 

Mmm, I hadn't removed the Dizzy Cap, I have two of these. I'll take a look? Where they fitted as standard on Mk2 Metros?

 

Just found this - looks like it's got an ignition module located on the top side of the dizzy?

 

 

Here is a pic f a 59D (on the left) and the one from the Metro on the right:

 

 

The one on the right has an ignition module mounted on it (large black plastic item on the right), picture below. So these Metros were fitted with Electronic Ignitions. Hope it still works

 

 

What other parts does it need to work e.g. does it need a ballast resistor and what coil in case the Metro one is knackered?

 

Started to strip and clean it:

 

 

The yellow gunk cam of with a bit of WD40 and a quick wipe, but the rotor arm is stuck on, I assume they pull off just like standard ones?

[cal844]

The rotor arm just pulls off, check that the advance weights are free.

You need a 12 volt supplied non ballast coil which I specifically for electronic ignition. I use GCL143 as a cross reference part number.

[wile e coyote]

My choice would be to work the 1275 if it really has 50K on it it essence it should be fine for a budget rebuild candidate - by "budget" I don't mean skimp! Just limit the upgrades to cost proportionate levels  - if max power is the objective then that'll cost.....but for something with a bit of go for road use...

 

I'm guessing what you have is a vanilla rather than MG / GTA variant - but nonetheless a full strip down will give you the best guide and you can take your time whilst still having a serviceable car...where your're not sure - don't take a chance - take it to an expert machine shop.

 

Best case scenario replaying my last  build, assuming you're lucky with the block and the bores just need a hone and new rings then I'd go with a whipping out the core plugs a chemical dip of the block, replace big end and main bearings, cam bearings if necessary, a new cam kit, oil & water pumps. If you need a rebore have the new pistons to hand to give to the machine shop so that spot on tolerance can be achieved. The head at 50K should be fine - decoke , re-lap and do the stem seals new springs will come with the cam kit, but if budget allows it's a good time to have the head worked, as far as valve gear goes - at the very least fit a new shaft. Pop a duplex chain in for good measure (nothing fancy a standard set times with offset woodruff keys fine for  roadgoing applications)

 

Dependent on what you want to use the car for a centre bearing strap, central oil pickup not strictly necessary for road use - but a real pain to do after the event so best considered at machining stage.

 

The box I'd have properly expert assessed and refurbed, again dependent on what your intended use is a crosspin diff nice to have but at the very least  have a hardened pin put in...

 

For the shopping list I'd use a used refurbed 1.75" SU on an MG Metro manifold,   a minispares twin core rad and a maniflow LCB mated to an RC40 twinbox

 

A bucket load of Payen gaskets and no change out of £800 to £1k if you build it yourself - just take your time , check and re-check  - it's far easier than you many think...(plus 150  worth of sundries)  ... or more depending on your choice of components / work done to them  - but above would give you a "fresh" road engine that you knew to be good....

 

The 180mm verto clutch is fine  - the MG metro used it reliably so no need to go to the bigger one...

[Jase]

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

[cal844]

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

[alex-95]

 

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

 

New isn't always better, AC dodd is your man for dizzy refurbs and will make sure you have the correct advance. I think it cost me £60

[cal844]

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

New isn't always better, AC dodd is your man for dizzy refurbs and will make sure you have the correct advance. I think it cost me £60

I agree buying used and getting it refurbished.

[JonnyAlpha]

My choice would be to work the 1275 if it really has 50K on it it essence it should be fine for a budget rebuild candidate - by "budget" I don't mean skimp! Just limit the upgrades to cost proportionate levels  - if max power is the objective then that'll cost.....but for something with a bit of go for road use...

 

I'm guessing what you have is a vanilla rather than MG / GTA variant - but nonetheless a full strip down will give you the best guide and you can take your time whilst still having a serviceable car...where your're not sure - don't take a chance - take it to an expert machine shop.

 

Best case scenario replaying my last  build, assuming you're lucky with the block and the bores just need a hone and new rings then I'd go with a whipping out the core plugs a chemical dip of the block, replace big end and main bearings, cam bearings if necessary, a new cam kit, oil & water pumps. If you need a rebore have the new pistons to hand to give to the machine shop so that spot on tolerance can be achieved. The head at 50K should be fine - decoke , re-lap and do the stem seals new springs will come with the cam kit, but if budget allows it's a good time to have the head worked, as far as valve gear goes - at the very least fit a new shaft. Pop a duplex chain in for good measure (nothing fancy a standard set times with offset woodruff keys fine for  roadgoing applications)

 

Dependent on what you want to use the car for a centre bearing strap, central oil pickup not strictly necessary for road use - but a real pain to do after the event so best considered at machining stage.

 

The box I'd have properly expert assessed and refurbed, again dependent on what your intended use is a crosspin diff nice to have but at the very least  have a hardened pin put in...

 

For the shopping list I'd use a used refurbed 1.75" SU on an MG Metro manifold,   a minispares twin core rad and a maniflow LCB mated to an RC40 twinbox

 

A bucket load of Payen gaskets and no change out of £800 to £1k if you build it yourself - just take your time , check and re-check  - it's far easier than you many think...(plus 150  worth of sundries)  ... or more depending on your choice of components / work done to them  - but above would give you a "fresh" road engine that you knew to be good....

 

The 180mm verto clutch is fine  - the MG metro used it reliably so no need to go to the bigger one...

 

Some great advice here thanks.

I would like to do the build myself to keep the costs down but I don't want to muck it up.

 

I am going to take the engine to one of my local machine shops and ask them to take a look at it to assess it. 

[Jase]

 

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

 

 

That's a shame, always found them good quality and very helpful.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

 

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

 

New isn't always better, AC dodd is your man for dizzy refurbs and will make sure you have the correct advance. I think it cost me £60

 

 

Is the standard Metro Electronic Dizzy worth getting refurbished?

They sell them new on MiniSpares for £96

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 03 February 2019 - 09:40 PM.

[nicklouse]

 

 

 

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

 

New isn't always better, AC dodd is your man for dizzy refurbs and will make sure you have the correct advance. I think it cost me £60

 

 

Is the standard Metro Electronic Dizzy worth getting refurbished?

 

they work and can be adjusted if needed. running fine with the 1380 with Evo001 cam in the build i linked.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

 

 

 

I'd also just buy a new distributor, save wasting ime with this one, they are only £70, picked a new one up at the show from powerspark

I've only ever had issues with powerspark items

 

New isn't always better, AC dodd is your man for dizzy refurbs and will make sure you have the correct advance. I think it cost me £60

 

 

Is the standard Metro Electronic Dizzy worth getting refurbished?

 

they work and can be adjusted if needed. running fine with the 1380 with Evo001 cam in the build i linked.

 

 

Hows the EVO001 Cam? this was one of the first I looked at and was on my shopping list however was advised to get a BP255 instead

[nicklouse]

it is fine. bags of everything you want.

 

read the specs. read the short motor costs look at the heads look at the heads.

 

short motors built by Bill Richards (not in person) come with sticker. heads done by Calver (no sticker). seriously not worth paying for it to be done. your old parts perfect for the exchange units.

 

Ps it engine scares that crap out of the guys wife. he just has a big grin.