131 replies to this topic

[duds100]

 

very nice indeed.

Less arch for me..

 

I have a set of 10x6 to try on, maybe they will look better. At this stage i figured best to get all the weight in the car and the suspension set up before committing to anything? Also going to fit the chrome strip and bumpers as I recon this will help make the arches look less like dumbo ears. lol

 

It looks mega but you've got a bit too much arch for those wheels. Group 2's would look 'right' but unfortunately you've drilled the holes to suit the current wide ones which will be higher in the body compared to some group 2's if you keep the same arch to tyre gap. 

 

Good point   Not impossible to change it, but not now, going to focus on getting it running. I'd allowed a certain amount of time/budget for re-work & remediation. Maybe this a sign I should have gone with black roof and group 2s! 

 

 

 

 

...don't ask me how I l know! Basically, I started with same arch setup on my R1 mini as you. I started with group 2 wide and low offsets split rims. Then went to narrower group 2's and narrower outer dishes & wider inner dishes on the rims to increase the offset (more tuck). Now I run colour coded 70's aluminium cosmic arches which I think look good on my white mini.  As you found too there are not many 70's tarmac motorsport pedigree minis (excluding clubmans) to take inspiration from so not easy to get it to look 'right'. 

 

For me on my track mini it is a balance of form & function - I greedily like to have both. The wider the track, the less lateral weight transfer during cornering (This is a good thing as the car stays flatter - ever wonder why RS4, M3's have wider track & haunched arches... ). But, widening the front track on a mini with spacers or low offset rims increases the tyre scrub radius which is detrimental to traction & increases torque steer. These symptoms are compounded further when stretching a 165 tyre over a +6" rim width too . Wider track also reduces effective spring rate too so basically there are a few trade offs. 

 

Your car looks superb. Driving, setup & tweaking is immense fun so rest assured you have lots of good times ahead

Edited by duds100, 09 October 2019 - 07:42 AM.

[creakyjaws5533]

I think the wide arches could work just needs the right wheels something like this would look mega http://www.stancewor...ax-mini-cooper/

[Curley]

 something about that motor just looks right. Makes mine look like a 4x4

[creakyjaws5533]

 something about that motor just looks right. Makes mine look like a 4x4

it does look gorgeous proper out and out track car, would love to run mine that low but I’m surrounded by speed bumps

[no66]

Nice job.

What adjustable shock monts are those? Endalf ? 

[Curley]

Wiring

 

Have I mentioned how much I hate wiring? Well, I though a good place to start was something simple - if I balls it up it's not impossible to do it again. Being a removable front end we need a detachable front loom to operate the lights. A 12 pin Deutsch DT connector on the bulkhead provided a good point to start. 

 

 

Using a combination of 16 & 20 AWG I measured and cut the necessary length of wire which in turn were laid out onto the panel. 

 

 

Heatshrink and transition boot to protect the loom. Deutsch DT connector for the headlights, DTM for indicators. I needed to splice in the factory loom for the levelling motors (sorry, I don't have photos of the slice rings but you can make them out under the DR-25).

 

The body coloured tabs are some painted TC-105's bonded to the CF panel. I will need to finish the other end and affix the remaining connector boots, but i'm waiting to do them all at once so as to cut down on material waste.

Edited by Curley, 11 October 2019 - 06:16 PM.

[jabos7]

Beautiful work --neatness always counts.  May your grounds be true!  -J

[Curley]

Beautiful work --neatness always counts.  May your grounds be true!  -J

 

LOL we stole the same thumbnail

 

Thanks

[jabos7]

Sure enough,  -and I'm finishing up a track day car as well.  '73 MK3 998cc.   Don't fall into my trap---so much work I'm afraid to use it.

It'll never run or look as good as it does right now, so sell!  (Maybe not, might miss the best selling time of year before I get it totally done.)

 

Roll on!

[mitch19]

This build is excellent. Tig welded cage looks fantastic! I’m really interested to see how those dampers go on road and track, quantum one zeros I believe. Keep up the good work.

[warning634]

_{This is a stunning build, very well put together and you can see that you are putting a lot of thought into each step.}

 

_{a quick question about the Owens engine mount kit you have, I can see how it all welds/mounts to the minis bulkhead.  But how does it all fit to the engine? so on the clutch side, does it mount in the standard location?  And the water pump side, I see you not running a water pump, so is this viable if you are running with a water pump and does the kit include the necessary brackets to secure it to the engine?}

 

_Cheers

 

_Kevin 

Edited by warning634, 14 October 2019 - 09:17 AM.

[Curley]

_{This is a stunning build, very well put together and you can see that you are putting a lot of thought into each step.}

 

_{a quick question about the Owens engine mount kit you have, I can see how it all welds/mounts to the minis bulkhead.  But how does it all fit to the engine? so on the clutch side, does it mount in the standard location?  And the water pump side, I see you not running a water pump, so is this viable if you are running with a water pump and does the kit include the necessary brackets to secure it to the engine?}

 

_Cheers

 

_Kevin 

 

Sure, it fits to the existing bolts, no modification to the engine required. On the clutch side it replaces the OE engine steady. On the radiator side it is possible to us a longer bolt on the rear top most water pump bolt. 

[KRM_Simon]

Hey James, a while since I’ve checked in on your progress... and it’s looking awesome.

The ‘press stud’ type bonnet and boot latches you are using, what are your thoughts on them? I’m looking at using these for my boot and not sure if they should be in addition to the original latch or instead of (hold strength and resistance to vibration). Also on the front end I see you have added a spring, does this make the bonnet pop up once the buttons are pressed?

Keep up the good work, a neat bit of wiring is always satisfying once completed. As the loom is being run down under the wing have you thought of protection from debris being flicked up by the tyre? I’m not sure which way I’m going on this, whether to run them in something light and strong or go with well if it’s cut by a rock thrown by the tyre, it’s only the lights it won’t stop me (and is quite unlikely)

Simon

[Curley]

Hi Simon, thank you for the encouragement

 

My thoughts on the press studs are mixed. The issue with them is that they have a very short throw from open to closed. I sometimes find it hard to know if they've latched so end up doing a tug test. Without an assister spring the boot is dead weight. The regs require 2 forms of closure so running with only the stock handle was not an option. I did consider using only the studs but I wanted to keep the original siloute. Plus having the original boot handle gives me something to pull on.

 

As for the front loom I've no plans on adding an additional protection. Happy to rethink that once it's doing laps but, perhaps like you, I figured it's a track car 'it's only the lights'. Also DR-25 heat shrink is robust stuff.

[1330RG]

May i ask where you are purchasing all your electrical connectors and wiring parts from? Looking for recommendations for later down my build.