48 replies to this topic

[Its a min]

As far as I know, the lumpy washer is a precision item.

 

Any differences in dimensions are taken care of, by a range of different thickness bronze washers that slide onto the crank before the primary gear is put on.

 

The bronze washer has an inside bevel on one side because the tail of the crank has a radius where it joins the rear main journal.  If it is on the wrong way, the radius does not let the bronze washer seat against the journal, which in turn means that the primary gear doesn't quite go far enough onto the crank etc:

 Cheers DeadSquare.

 

You're a star!

 

I've just read that the backing ring is now made 2 thou oversize to account for wear.

 

A few more things added to my check list.

[Spider]

Sorry, I'm a bit lost here.

 

Which part is the lumpy washer?

[imack]

Sorry, I'm a bit lost here.

Which part is the lumpy washer?

They're talking about the primary gear backing ring, behind the 'C' clip

[Spider]

 

Sorry, I'm a bit lost here.

Which part is the lumpy washer?

They're talking about the primary gear backing ring, behind the 'C' clip

 

 

OK thanks.

That would be the Backing Ring then.

[DeadSquare]

The lumpy washer is the not technical term, not to be confused with "Backing Ring", who are a tintinnabulating pop group.

[Rorf]

Please chaps - the correct terminology 

[Its a min]

 

 

OK thanks.

That would be the Backing Ring then.

 

 

Yay, I got it right! More than I can say about my clutch/gearbox.

 

Please chaps - the correct terminology 

 

Rorf, are you saying you don't understand the thingamabob that fits on the thingamajig?

Edited by Its a min, 20 December 2018 - 03:35 PM.

[Its a min]

Right then, so I'm thinking, I need to check/set the idler gear and primary gear end floats, check the fitment of the backing ring and c-clip, clutch/diaphragm and flywheel fitting, plunger and clutch release bearing. Anything else you guys can suggest I check to try and sort out my problem?

 

Cheers

Edited by Its a min, 20 December 2018 - 03:45 PM.

[Its a min]

Hi all, I hope you're all enjoying the festive period.

 

By way of update, I finally got around to following up advice & suggestions and found that, although the primary gear rotated freely on the crank, I had practically no end float. Tried getting a.0035 feeler gauge in but just wouldn't go. Well actually I could, but not all the way around so I popped off the c-clip and backing ring, both tight to get off, primary gear seal, primary gear and brass thrust washer. None if which appeared to be damaged or scored although I did find the new c-clip backing plate did seem to allow the c-clip to sit a fair bit prouder than the old one. Gave everything a good clean and used fine emery to clean off any residue before trial fitting everything back. On checking, I can now get a .004 feeler gauge in all the way around so hopefully this will sort the problem.

 

Now just need to order a new seal and put it all back together. Before I do so, I just wanted to check to see if there is there anything else you think I should check at this stage, bearing in mind the engine is still in the car?

 

Also, and this may be a silly question but, I've seen photos where the primary gear is fitted both ways round i.e. open spring side towards the clutch and flat side towards the clutch. Which is the correct way the seal should be fitted?

 

Thanks again guys.

[GraemeC]

Flat side to the clutch. The open side of that type of seal always goes towards the fluid.

[KTS]

Check the Haynes manual, but I think it should be flat side to the clutch (..long time since I've changed one..)

[Its a min]

Flat side to the clutch. The open side of that type of seal always goes towards the fluid.

 

 

Check the Haynes manual, but I think it should be flat side to the clutch (..long time since I've changed one..)

 

Cheers!

 

Happy New Year!

[Rorf]

I am not sure if you mentioned what engine you have, 1275 or 980 or 1098? but the stiffness of the C clip and the "Backing Ring - washer thingamajig" whilst being fitted to the crankshaft does not sound too good.

 

Whilst you have the primary gear out you can check the idler gear float using a dial indicator.

 

Building engines and gearboxes requires absolute cleanliness, patience, assemble/disassemble until everything fits and rotates correctly with minimal friction. 

 

It is so sad to see an engine/gearbox poorly built and a few 100 miles down the line seeing it all end with damaged internals, never mind the expense and tears.

 

Good luck in the new year.

[Its a min]

I am not sure if you mentioned what engine you have, 1275 or 980 or 1098? but the stiffness of the C clip and the "Backing Ring - washer thingamajig" whilst being fitted to the crankshaft does not sound too good.

 

Whilst you have the primary gear out you can check the idler gear float using a dial indicator.

 

Building engines and gearboxes requires absolute cleanliness, patience, assemble/disassemble until everything fits and rotates correctly with minimal friction. 

 

It is so sad to see an engine/gearbox poorly built and a few 100 miles down the line seeing it all end with damaged internals, never mind the expense and tears.

 

Good luck in the new year.

Hi Rorf,

 

Sorry, it's a 998 A+ and I absolutely agree with your comment.

 

Unfortunately, living in central London has it's drawbacks. In fact it has many drawbacks including not having a garage or workshop at or near home in my case. Once I'd disassembled the engine/gearbox, everything was taken home, to much delight of the wife ( ), where I cleaned everything and oiled to protect until I got a chance to get back to the garage to reassemble everything. Given I have an underground, poorly lit, garage, I tried to make sure everything was cleaned and measured correctly. My problems seem to have been caused by new parts being fitted such as in baulk rings, which seized the gearbox, and the c-clip backing ring which, as stated on Minispares website, are produced oversize to allow for wear. As my original backing ring did not have any signs of wear or damage, I re-used this with noticeable difference as explained above.

 

I did check the idler gear end float when the engine/gearbox were separated but as I have a DTI, there's no harm in double checking. Am I right in saying this is done by fitting the DTI at 90 degrees with the tip through the crank hole up against the idler gear and seeing how much movement the idler gear has?

 

Many thanks.

Edited by Its a min, 30 December 2018 - 11:22 PM.

[Its a min]

Hi all,

 

As with my other post, I just wanted to give a quick update to let you know it seems to be all sorted. Looks like it was a combination of new c-clip/backing ring being slightly over-sized, so no primary gear end float, and when I fitted the clutch plate, I didn't leave the pressure plate loose enough for the clutch plate to centre itself before torquing up the pressure plate causing the whole flywheel/clutch assembly to be unbalanced. Now, I have smooth gear change with both the engine running and not!

 

Thanks for all the help and advice.