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Radius Arm Stub Axle Dry On Hydro Arms. Will Fit?


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#1 xydte

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Posted 25 November 2018 - 11:52 PM

hello to everybody this is the first time posting here, because i never found a solution so far. MY PROBLEM IS. In my mk1 morris mini when they converted the hydro elastic to  dry the kept everything. Radius arms subframe. What they did back in 1979 was this : where the small spring was sitting instead of the shock absorber they put with argon a bolt to hold the shocks. when i tried to unscrew the bolt over there it broke. Then i found out what is going on. My question is and i want an answer from someone that knows. Will the radius arm stub axles from dry suspensions fit to my hydro arms? I want to keep the original arms to be honest for being good and make a video on YouTube. Has anyone done this job? Is it possible? Also the rear hubs on the hydro arms and the dry arms are the same? thanks in advance.


Edited by xydte, 25 November 2018 - 11:54 PM.


#2 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:01 AM

yes and yes. but before you go too far have a thing about this.press your old axles out protecting the threads then clean up the back end and drill and tap for a 3/8s bolt. or if you have the kit it can be done with the axle in place. (off the car of cause).



#3 xydte

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:10 AM

yes and yes. but before you go too far have a thing about this.press your old axles out protecting the threads then clean up the back end and drill and tap for a 3/8s bolt. or if you have the kit it can be done with the axle in place. (off the car of cause).

thanks for your response. I am now calm. I was thinking all day burning my head xaxaxa. I did not understand only one thing. When you said drill and tap you mean the hole where the stub axle sits?



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:26 AM

see the bolt

CA8uNUq.jpg



#5 Ethel

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:26 AM

I think Nick means make a hole to accept a bolt in place of the shaft for mounting the damper. Doubtless he'll confirm.

 

 

...and he did  :-).

 

For a bit of sophistication, you could counterbore the end of hole so the shear load is across the unthreaded portion of the bolt - or make up some longer sleeves for the rubber bushes to do similar, with washers to match. 



#6 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:26 AM

I think Nick means make a hole to accept a bolt in place of the shaft for mounting the damper. Doubtless he'll confirm.

tooo slow



#7 xydte

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:28 AM

 

I think Nick means make a hole to accept a bolt in place of the shaft for mounting the damper. Doubtless he'll confirm.

 

GUYs YOU SAVED ME. THANKS A LOT!!!!! Nick you are the boss mate.



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:42 AM

all i will say is that the force needed to press the axles will damage the thread if you dont take steps to protect it. 10 tonne to start and about 6 tonnes to keep it moving.

 

on advantage of the bolt is dropping the radius arm is easy n need to shift the fuel tank.

 

PS those arm are Metro ones just in case anyone is thinking they look odd.



#9 Retroman

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 10:11 AM

You also have the option of new stub axle shafts with the standard 3/8 thread damper end

 

or KAD heavy duty 1/2 inch for rosejoints



#10 xydte

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Posted 09 October 2019 - 09:09 PM

THANKS to nicklouse and everyone that helped me with this thread. Stub axles thats only what you need to convert the rear hydrolastic frame into dry. It was easy took me total of 9 hours to remove paint (not properly) and re-fit the arms. On the front you are going to need to dry arms. In my case i used a whole dry frame because the hydro was in bad condition but i kept it. No need to change the rear subfame unless you want to help someone have the right suspension. But the advantage of keeping the rear hydro on the back is that you get a stiffer ride. If you are into track days or so its worth doing it !!! here is the video i made i complete tutorial






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