19 replies to this topic

[BaronVonchesto]

Yes another engine oil question...

 

Engine oils with sufficient ZDDP for the mini are VERY hard to come by here in malaysia. Liqui Moly on the other hand, despite being very expensive, is easily available.

 

How is Molybdenum Disulphide (MoS2) as an antiwear barrier compared to ZDDP?

 

I was thinking I might ad say 1 part liqui moly to 4 parts Bosch or Shell 20w-50, or alternatively a Liqui Moly MoS2 oil engine oil additive.

[DeadSquare]

As I understood it (50 years ago) the secret ingredient in STP  was ZDDP,

 

It is apparently only needed as a tiny, sort of, .1% additive, unlike a tin full of Molyslip, and I would think that by now, if it works, that all the oil companies have done their research, and add it.

 

I read some where, when 'cats' were introduced 30 years ago, that ZDDP was one of the substances suspected of being a potential poison, so that may be why there isn't, as you put it "Sufficient ZDDP"

[Spider]

There is a very good Australian made Oil available in Malaysia here;-

 

Penrite Oil Malaysia,

22, Jalan PJS 11/22,

Bandar Sunway, 47500

Petaling Jaya, Selangor,

Malaysia

 

Phone 12-387 7721

 

In their Range, they have a few that well suits Minis, I use HPR-30, which is a 20W-60, but they also have one which is blended for the Mini, called 'Classic Light' which is a similar 20W-60.

 

One of the best Oils I've ever used in a Mini.

 

If you use a 'Moly' Oil in a Mini, you'll soon find the Sychromesh won't work (or work as well as it should). I'm also somewhat skeptical of these claims as Moly isn't a lubricant with is compatible with Piston Rings.

[BaronVonchesto]

hmmm isn't 20w-60 a bit too thick though?

[Wiggy]

Which oil is a right can of worms.

Some people get really hung up on the grade. Some people get really hung up on the type (mineral, semi synthetic, synthetic). Some people don't believe oil technology has come a long way since the A Series was introduced. Some people say that doesn't matter because of the gearbox in sump design.

Personally (this is not a recommendation, due to the possibility of being put in stocks and having oily rags thrown at me), I found 20W/50 takes far too long to get any oil temperature, in the UK climate. So I use a Semi Synthetic 15W/40 truck oil, which has good amounts of ZDDP in it.

And I'm seeing how it goes.

[Rorf]

Can of worms, no ways, I use a can of the best - Castrol GTX 20W50

[BaronVonchesto]

hmmm... Tried looking up the Castrol gtx spec sheet but it doesnt say what the ZDDP ppm is...
https://msdspds.cast...orm&c=Malaysia (MY)&l=English%20(GB)&p=GTX%2020W-50&n=&b=All&t=All&autosearch=No&autoload=No&sitelang=EN&output=Full&spu=Lubricants&unrestrictedmb=No&cols=0

[Bat]

Hi,

Valvoline racing VR1.

20w50 suitable for turbocharged engines too...

Cheers 

[BaronVonchesto]

Isn't Volvoline VR-1 fully synthetic? I looked it up its really expensive! RM100 per quart! That would be a little under 100 USD per oil change! 

[Cooperman]

No, Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 is a mineral oil and it is about the best you can get for a classic Mini, although Kendall 2-w50 is said to be better (but is hard to find and very expensive).

 

I do recall a long time ago that someone added MolySlip to a Cooper 'S' and he had to re-build the gearbox shortly afterwards as the syncros all failed. It is said that STP has the same effect.

 

It is surprising that a 20w50 mineral can be considered too thick for the UK as the original Minis had a straight 30-Grade as the recommendation for Winter and a straight 40-Grade for Summer or continuous hard-driving. That was before the days of true multi-grade oils.

 

In the early days of synthetic oils I was given some Shell Gemini to use in my rally cars. I did one event with it in an 'S' and I had to re-build the engine and gearbox. So getting a 'free' oil change cost me over £800, and that was in the early 1990's.

 

Never try to save money on oil.The cost of re-building is so high compared to a little bit more for top-quality oils.

[Mini Manannán]

hmmm isn't 20w-60 a bit too thick though?

 

It'll be spot on for your area of the world.  Track down the Penrite

[DeadSquare]

I recommend Castrol ! ............  because there has always been a 45 gallon drum of 10W-30 Castrol Agri in the farm workshop, and as it doesn't cost me anything, it has been the 'oil of choice' in all my day-to-day engines for almost 60 years.

 

Duckhams was a much advertised oil in the late sixties, and a lot of club racing cars seemed to run on it. However, it was heavily rumored that the reason that it was less expensive than other oils, was because it was recycled from garage oil changes.

 

It was a bit of 'cruel fun' to walk round the paddock, looking for unfortunate competitors with anything from overheating to a bent wing, and having asked what oil they used, and hearing that it was Duckhams, tell them "Well what do you expect, the last person probably changed that oil because they had the the same problem", adding smugly "We never have that trouble, we use Castrol R".

[Wiggy]

It is surprising that a 20w50 mineral can be considered too thick for the UK as the original Minis had a straight 30-Grade as the recommendation for Winter and a straight 40-Grade for Summer or continuous hard-driving. That was before the days of true multi-grade oils.

All I know is that the difference in time taken for the oil to get up to temperature was marked when I switched from 20W/50 to 15W/40. So much so, I thought my oil temperature sender was broken before I did.

[BaronVonchesto]

forgive me but I fail to see how the local climate matters to the choice of oil viscocity. Afterall SAE rates viscocity based on the viscocity at a fixed temperature. Climate would only affect how quickly one gets up to operating temperature surely?

[Spider]

Temperature has everything to do with the correct Grade selection;-

 

 

 

hmmm isn't 20w-60 a bit too thick though?

 

It's what Penrite recommend and it's a very popular oil with a good many other Mini & Moke owners, many, like myself, long term.