51 replies to this topic

[Wiggy]

Not quite sure what you mean, mate. Once what I listed is removed, you undo the box to block bolts. Then off it pops. I've not had to touch anything on that side of the engine.

[JonnyAlpha]

Not quite sure what you mean, mate. Once what I listed is removed, you undo the box to block bolts. Then off it pops. I've not had to touch anything on that side of the engine.

 

Ah yes sorry - just been out to the garage and had a closer look. When I tried to separate the gearbox from the block, it seemed stuck at the Timing Gear End. On looking behind the smaller gear there are two bolts which appeared to go into the gearbox. Now that it is apart they actually don't so it must just have been stuck!!

 

Anyway I now have the problem of how to remove the Nut that holds the Timing Gear onto the Cam Shaft? What size nut is it?  

[JonnyAlpha]

Edited My Original Post

So having split the engine I am now in the process of stripping it and checking it.

I mentioned before I think that cylinder 1 had some form of coolant leak and where it has been sat there was a rust ring around the bore. So the bores will need a hone or maybe a bore. So, do I take this opportunity to bore it out and if so how far? 

 

I have done some reading and understand that the options are:

 

+0.202" = 1293cc

+0.040" = 1310cc (71.62mm)

+0.060" = 1330cc

 

I am in two minds about the engine, either spend as little as possible to have a good running motor that I can drop into my 998 and then either (a) do up the 998 to go back in the Mini and sell the now running 1275. Or (b) keep the 1275.

 

So if I do need a re-bore, according to my research, as the costs are similar, I should go straight up to 1330 before considering an offset bore to go higher. Staying at 1330 would give me or any future owner that option later if they so wished?

 

The unknowns however are regarding additional cost between 1293 and 1330 such as Cyl Head modification needed or the affect on Carb and Exhaust, CAM choice, Stage One Kits, Electronic Dizzy all of which will be considerations if I keep the engine.

 

Any advice ?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 10 October 2018 - 08:15 AM.

[Retroman]

You could keep everything standard on the 1330 other than a needle change and use the budget and time on an even better revvy

 

over bored 998, which can go to 1107cc with 68mm pistons....or with a 1098 crank go to 1217cc

[JonnyAlpha]

You could keep everything standard on the 1330 other than a needle change and use the budget and time on an even better revvy

 

over bored 998, which can go to 1107cc with 68mm pistons....or with a 1098 crank go to 1217cc

 

So bore out the 1275 to 1330, fit a new needle for the HIF44 Carb.

I would need a new exhaust to fit the Metro manifold? 

 

Without starting a 998 v 1275 thread (or 1098 v 1330) why would you consider a revvy 998 better?

[Retroman]

Its a bit of a typo

 

Meaning by spending more you will have a better 998

[timmy850]

In my opinion you'd be better off boring out to the next size up, so 1293. This then leaves another rebore to 1310 in the future and then larger bores after that. That's assuming the bore with clear up at the next size.

 

If you need to buy the same parts to rebuild - pistons, bearings, gaskets etc, and get the same machine work done - rebore, cam bearings, etc they pretty much cost the same if it's 1275 or 998. So seeing as you have both engines already I'd personally use the 1275

 

With the same type of modifications the 1275 will obviously make more power (cam, head, etc)