37 replies to this topic

[Midas Mk1]

You also have the inlet connected to the regulator! This should be for the servo and ccv lines!

[Allrounder]

From what I can see in your photo the way it’s plumbed in is the nearly the same as mine. The pressure regulator never came in my kit so bought a adjustable one which is set to 3 bar. I also don’t have its vacuum part of regulator connected. (Can you see on your video of the engine from S/C if the regulator is connected to the manifold?).

Only other thing I’m not sure on is that fuel filter. Looks more a carb type so not sure how it will handle the pressure requirements.

You really do need to check the fuel pressure with a gauge though to see what the injectors are receiving.

[Allrounder]

 IMG_2277.JPG   84.1K   20 downloads

Attached Files

•  broken mini.jpg   86.87K   12 downloads

[Bat]

Hi,

That plastic fuel filter is glaringly dangerous get rid of it immediately!

It's not for injection systems and could burst with the pressure.

Haven't you got the proper one under the boot floor?

Regulator is piped up correctly, could be faulty who knows?

Try removing the return pipe from the regulator and using a length of pipe run it into a petrol can.

Make sure it's secure and safe then try running it like that. 

You'll need a couple of gallons in the tank and don't overflow the can!

I'm thinking the return pipe maybe a restriction.

At this point you could do with knowing the fuel pressure....

Edit:

You need one definite constant to figure everything else out or you're guessing everything.

Other ideas just get a second hand  pressure reg and try that in there, just look for anything with hose tails, from older cars usually, think mine is off a vauxhall cavalier!

Cheers 

Edited by Bat, 27 June 2018 - 08:45 AM.

[Foobah]

A little more info:

 

Ive checked with Specialist Components - they are happy with the regulator position.

 

Fuel pump is rated at 2-3 bars, or 28 – 40 PSI.

[Bat]

Hi,

I see no problem with how it's fitted, but is it giving the right pressure?

Regardless of what the pump delivers, the reg controls the pressure unless the pump just can't keep up (not in this case)

The vacuum line should be connected so it can compensate for different vacuum situations.

Cheers 

[Foobah]

Good news - Ive got some good progress.

Switching off the lambda resolved the rough/over-rich running below 3k rpm.

I also had the pipe at the top of the regulator incorrectly fitted.

Looks like then I need a stronger fuel pump?

With these 2 remedies it seems to be running OK. I need to turn the idle down.

For a 1380 fast road what would anyone suggest this should sit at/

Thanks for all the brilliant responses to this nightmare conundrum so far - the support to fix it is incredible.

Cheers,

Damian

[Bat]

Hi,

Turning the lambda off says to me there's something very wrong with it. The lambda should be keeping the mixture correct!

The pipe at the top of the reg should also make very little difference in the way car runs,it only makes about 0.2 bar difference in pressure.

Why would you want to change the fuel pump?

Oh about 1000rpm should be fine, maybe 850 if it'll take it?

Cheers 

Edited by Bat, 27 June 2018 - 04:29 PM.

[Sprocket]

Danger danger...... I don’t like the look af that fuel filter!!! Are you confident it is rated to the fuel pressure of an injection system? Mostly fuel injection fuel filters are a steel can.

[mini13]

yeah, loose that filter pronto!

 

injection pumps can make a lot of pressure if the reg gives an issue, (see below)

 

https://www.fuelpump...pump-1966-p.asp

 

the MPI pump will be absolutly fine for anything you can throw at it.

 

 

by switching the Lamda "off"  I presume you are just deactivating it in the ecu so taking it out of closed loop. in which case what kind of readings is it giving in the problem area?

Edited by mini13, 28 June 2018 - 08:29 AM.

[Foobah]

Brill - thanks everyone.

 

I popped the fuel filter (the one in the pics) in just for the initial start up phase. I had taken the tank out and fitted new fuel-lines - I didn't want anything bad finding its way through.  Given what folk are saying here though, I'll take it out now as its all flushed through.

Thanks for the info re Lambda - spot on, Ive taken it out of closed loop. Im just waiting for SC to come back with a view on the lambda situation. My growing concern is getting through the MOT emissions test. In my simple mind the lambda would be part of the pieces that keep the engine running sweetly - deactivating it seems to be bypassing what its there to do?

I'll take a photo of the current set up and post later.

 

Thanks again everyone.

[mini13]

essentially, the normal thing is the engine is mapped to where it needs to be, then the lambda in closed loop can trim the fuel slightly if its needed to counter any day-day inacuracys, usually there is a cap on the amount it can adjust it somthing like 5%, which really should not cause any running issues.

 

 

looking over your pics again, I notice that the lamda is alwas showing very rich ( around 0.6) Ive also just noticed that there is a lambda voltage gauge reading 0v... this sugests that the ECU is not getting fed the actual lambda voltage and thinks its "well rich" all the time, also the closed loop gauge is reading -20% so the ecu was pulling 20% of the fuel in closed loop. now youve taken it out of closed loop it isnt.

 

this sugests to me that either

a) theres a fault with the lambda sensor or wiring

b) its not a wideband lambda

c) a problem with the ecu lambda input

[Bat]

Hi,

Quick question, is the wideband lambda, I presume it is a wideband, wired direct to the ECU or via some other device?

Cheers 

[Sprocket]

Hi,

Quick question, is the wideband lambda, I presume it is a wideband, wired direct to the ECU or via some other device?

Cheers 

There's an external controller (one without a gauge) which gives a 0-5v output into the ECU

[Foobah]

My initial response was going to be narrow band, Im checking with the guy who fitted it.

 

Ive got a couple more photos to upload next.