4 replies to this topic

[absx2]

I finally got around to fitting my reconditioned engine and box to my mk2 cooper, While the motor was out the engine bay, front subframe and everything else has been reconditioned including a new steering rack as the old one was knocking over bumps.

 

I took the car for a shakedown run that lasted about 20 feet as it sounded like a drive shaft was loose. Many tests and 4 hrs later having checked every conceivable part from drive flanges, calipers, ball joints, lower arm and radius arm pins, rack U bolts, steering column, doughnuts, hi-lows, subframe mounts, engine steady etc etc, I even removed the shocks and then it hit me, my brand new rack was a shi**er.

 

I popped the brand new QH track rods ends off and the Knocking noise was gone. It appears the ball joints in the rack creak loudly when gently podded with the palm of your hand which transmits through the steering wheel like an earth quake. The ball joints are not the rebuildable type so I cant strip them.

 

Unfortunately I bought the rack from the Minisport stand at Castle Combe about 4 years ago so bang goes my warranty but the question is am i the only unlucky mug that bought a duff rack or are they all hit and miss made in China these days.

I am reluctant to buy another new rack other than a genuine Rover rack that probably no longer exists and having had 3 duff recon racks in a row supplied by a local Autoparts many years ago i would never try another.

 

So much for saving time by fitting new parts so I will be using Moke spiders excellent rack refurb guide when I dug out a rebuildable old rack from my spares hoard.

 

The good news is that the motor goes well :)

[Spider]

I've heard a lot of not so good feedback on the new racks that have been available for the past few years, some have been good, a few duds right out of the box, but it seems few last too long. I can't say though that I've heard this one, it sounds like the joints are way too tight,but if they are not of the rebuildable type, then that's the way they have been made.

 

I'm almost inclined to suggest filling it with 90 weight Oil (it'll likely only be filled with Grease now) and see if that settles it.

 

You can rebuild most racks and they are fairly easy to do. If you have your old rack, why not give it a go;-

 

http://www.theminifo...l-uk-type-mkii/

 

(the photos are there, just give them a few moments to load)

[absx2]

Thanks Moke Spider,

They are very tight and I have already tried Ep90 and most of it eventually leaked out of the worm gear covers and it didn't stop the creaking and knocking even after a good bouncing around and a scary drive.

I have dug out three racks, two are the rebuildable type and only one looks good enough due to the other having heavy wear on the shaft most likely caused by lots of grit getting in from a split boot although a quick go on a cylindrical grinder and a bronze bush would fix it as its about .005" Max.

 

My original non rebuildable type has more teeth but the travel is the same ( Nov 1967 build date )

 

Is a bronze bush a good plan regardless or is it more likely to make noise over the nylon or plastic bush that seems rock hard anyway ?

[Spider]

If you've tried Oil and that didn't help, then I wouldn't use it, it's asking for trouble.

 

The Bronze Bush I consider 'mandatory' on Big Wheel Mokes or anything with wide and / or sticky tyres or a car that's regularly driven over bad roads.

 

The felt bush idea was an inexpensive means of manufacture as it didn't need precision alignment of the housing and when they did flatten a little, it kept the quiet.The Plastic Bushes are ~ OK ~ if used with Oil.

 

If doing a Bronze Bush, I ream them to finished size after pressing in to the housing and then insert the inner rack to check the alignment of the housing, they are often out a little and that's enough with a precision bush to make them bind, so, don't make the bush too long (I make mine around 1"). You may also need to 'align' the outer housing, I do this by inserting the inner rack in to the bush and just looking at it at the 'business end' to see if it's more or less central, if not, then I insert the non business end in to a tube that's a neat-ish fit over it (that's anchored) and just pull the other end around by hand in what ever direction it needs to go, all with the inner in place (so they don't take much to do) until it's close, doesn't need to be 'spot on'.

[absx2]

Great stuff and thanks again.