33 replies to this topic

[Spider]

 

 

in what way does a hub wear?

 
The Cup's pick up and spin. It doesn't take much at all to wear the hub when that happens and they can still be a tight fit in to the bores, but when both parts are looked at closely, it's clear what's happened.
 
I've never found a set of Timken Bearings that needed any kind of adjustment, though it's possible some sets over the years may have. There are other bearings out there, I've tried a few but found them rubbish and not worth trying on.

Since youve only come across this twice, youve not really seen these issues that are unfolding in modern times as its becomming more of a problem. Its not wear of the hub, that is unless the hub that was swapped in was also worn. What are the chances of that?

 

 

Sounds much more like your making most of this up Colin. You said yourself in another thread not long ago something to the effect "I've always found the machining spot on " or something very much to that effect.

 

Either the bearing assy isn't genuine Timken or the hub is worn or both.

 

I don't mind helping members out and pointing them in a direction they need to look, but I'm not interested in debating it with stirrers the likes of you.

[Sprocket]

Wow! there is no response to that really🤔

[Rorf]

Ill give the washer a go and see how I get on. Disgusted at their P&P cost though...

 

How do you know what thickness shim you will need, did yo measure the lateral play with a dial gauge?

[guywilko]

in what way does a hub wear?

 
The Cup's pick up and spin. It doesn't take much at all to wear the hub when that happens and they can still be a tight fit in to the bores, but when both parts are looked at closely, it's clear what's happened.
 
I've never found a set of Timken Bearings that needed any kind of adjustment, though it's possible some sets over the years may have. There are other bearings out there, I've tried a few but found them rubbish and not worth trying on.

Since youve only come across this twice, youve not really seen these issues that are unfolding in modern times as its becomming more of a problem. Its not wear of the hub, that is unless the hub that was swapped in was also worn. What are the chances of that?

 
Sounds much more like your making most of this up Colin. You said yourself in another thread not long ago something to the effect "I've always found the machining spot on " or something very much to that effect.
 
Either the bearing assy isn't genuine Timken or the hub is worn or both.
 
I don't mind helping members out and pointing them in a direction they need to look, but I'm not interested in debating it with stirrers the likes of you.

in what way does a hub wear?

 
The Cup's pick up and spin. It doesn't take much at all to wear the hub when that happens and they can still be a tight fit in to the bores, but when both parts are looked at closely, it's clear what's happened.
 
I've never found a set of Timken Bearings that needed any kind of adjustment, though it's possible some sets over the years may have. There are other bearings out there, I've tried a few but found them rubbish and not worth trying on.

Since youve only come across this twice, youve not really seen these issues that are unfolding in modern times as its becomming more of a problem. Its not wear of the hub, that is unless the hub that was swapped in was also worn. What are the chances of that?

 
Sounds much more like your making most of this up Colin. You said yourself in another thread not long ago something to the effect "I've always found the machining spot on " or something very much to that effect.
 
Either the bearing assy isn't genuine Timken or the hub is worn or both.
 
I don't mind helping members out and pointing them in a direction they need to look, but I'm not interested in debating it with stirrers the likes of you.

Gotta agree with spider here.

Just fixed the same Problem on my front hubs. There was play on the wheel and the bearings looked fine. There was a thin wear line on the faces of the seat. This was not much maybe a hairs thickess- i could feel it with my fingernail or a point thing. But it was enough to Induce the wheel wobble

[guywilko]

I'd get a new hub

[Steve220]

Nah, gonna wing it

[Steve220]

Ill be honest with you all, the rear hubs on this car are almost new. Id be damn surprised if they were worn this early. The previous bearings were timkin and were fine. With the new bearings theyre not. So Im assuming (probably incorrectly) that this is a bearing issue.

[cian]

Ive got a selection of the old uk made timken rear bearings for £30 + £5 postage if interested

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

The rear bearings on mine were binding due to previous owner fitting rubbish bearings so I ordered new Timken bearings, hubs and wheel studs from Minispares to do a proper job. 

 

The bearings arrived unboxed with one packet opened but I carried on regardless (mental note - sort this out first in future).  Fitted new parts, ended up with excessive play.  Swopped bearings/old hubs/new hubs more times than I care to remember to try to isolate the problem.  I was convinced the new hubs were machined wrong but after several calls to Minispares (who coudn't have been more helpful) I was provided with a new set of correctly boxed and sealed bearings. 

 

I was still convinced the hubs were at fault but upon fitting the new bearings, the adjustment was perfect.

 

The first set of bearings supplied were engraved as Timken bearings the same as the boxed set supplied subsequently.  Maybe the opened bag had the inner and outer mixed up with another but the bearings from the unopened bag were no better. 

 

I didn't expect the bearings to be at fault as they were Timken - Minispares say they don't get problems with Timken bearings (as does everyone on here) but that they should have been boxed.  Minispares were good enough to replace the bearings for me and it solved the problem.

 

Conclusion:  It is highly unlikely that the problems you have with your hubs are faulty Timken bearings but it is possible.

 

A shout out also to Curtis and Gary from Minispares who were brilliant helping me to sort this out.  It's so nice in this day and age to be able to reach people at a company by phone who care, are willing to help and can help because they understand what they are selling, what it's for and how it's used!

[Steve220]

The rear bearings on mine were binding due to previous owner fitting rubbish bearings so I ordered new Timken bearings, hubs and wheel studs from Minispares to do a proper job. 
 
The bearings arrived unboxed with one packet opened but I carried on regardless (mental note - sort this out first in future).  Fitted new parts, ended up with excessive play.  Swopped bearings/old hubs/new hubs more times than I care to remember to try to isolate the problem.  I was convinced the new hubs were machined wrong but after several calls to Minispares (who coudn't have been more helpful) I was provided with a new set of correctly boxed and sealed bearings. 
 
I was still convinced the hubs were at fault but upon fitting the new bearings, the adjustment was perfect.
 
The first set of bearings supplied were engraved as Timken bearings the same as the boxed set supplied subsequently.  Maybe the opened bag had the inner and outer mixed up with another but the bearings from the unopened bag were no better. 
 
I didn't expect the bearings to be at fault as they were Timken - Minispares say they don't get problems with Timken bearings (as does everyone on here) but that they should have been boxed.  Minispares were good enough to replace the bearings for me and it solved the problem.
 
Conclusion:  It is highly unlikely that the problems you have with your hubs are faulty Timken bearings but it is possible.
 
A shout out also to Curtis and Gary from Minispares who were brilliant helping me to sort this out.  It's so nice in this day and age to be able to reach people at a company by phone who care, are willing to help and can help because they understand what they are selling, what it's for and how it's used!

Agreed. Currently chatting to Simon regarding a a piece of trim that is missing an end cap. Ive spent thousands with them but I always feel theyd treat people that have spent a few £ in the same way.

Ive managed to sort this now. Used a shim and its rock solid again laterally and spins nicely.

[guywilko]

Pleased to hear that. Relatively cheap fix

[WanaGo]

Old post I know, but this was a valuable post for me.

I could not find 40x50x0.1mm shims here locally, the thinnest I could find were 0.3mm

Happened to find these on Aliexpress, so if anyone around the world cant find something locally to them, there is always this option.

Few sellers have a similar range.

https://www.aliexpre...2917984368.html

[mini-mad-mark]

Sorry to resurrect an old post but can't find the info I'm looking for.

 

Having the same issue as above i.e. play in the Timken bearings when correctly fitted/torqued so I suspect hub wear as I too doubt that Timken manufacture would be incorrect twice in succession (same problem on both sides!!!) 

 

Does anyone know the design width of the rear hub shoulder? Probably +/-0.001" tolerance from nominal once I can find what that is.

 

(I have tried searching on here and Google, and on here via Google before anyone suggests)

[Spider]

Does anyone know the design width of the rear hub shoulder? Probably +/-0.001" tolerance from nominal once I can find what that is.

 

0.4715" (or 27/64").
 

[mbolt998]

 

in what way does a hub wear?

 

The Cup's pick up and spin. It doesn't take much at all to wear the hub when that happens and they can still be a tight fit in to the bores, but when both parts are looked at closely, it's clear what's happened.

 

I've never found a set of Timken Bearings that needed any kind of adjustment, though it's possible some sets over the years may have. There are other bearings out there, I've tried a few but found them rubbish and not worth trying on.

 

Are there engineering diagrams for anything on the Mini available somewhere? There should be a spec for exactly what size everything is supposed to be and then it could be measured to see if it was worn, or a new part wasn't made right, etc.