85 replies to this topic

[duds100]

Awesome build. Must be excited to be so close to finishing! 

 

The Hoosier tyres you have fitted, do you know if they the "19.5 x 5-10 T.D.R" ones, item number 44391? ....Are they street legal?

 

They look very nice indeed. 

[evolone38]

Thanks duds100,
165 70 10 Hoosier TD are a great tire, I have driven for years on the street. I used to have the Yoke 008 and they are so greasy compared to these. Hoosiers have much more grip, not a long wearing tire but, replacing grip is easier then wrecking and wrenching.

Street legal.... lol I daily them, but I don't drive in the rain either.

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Edited by evolone38, 21 June 2018 - 05:58 PM.

[evolone38]

Build update.. debugging.

So I have been held back a bit by certain issues but making improvements steadily.
First it was the diff issue but that was conquered smoothly by Promotive..thanks guys!

Second was a driveshaft issue in which I had a chromoly driveaxle machined for one side that was 15mm longer than the stock longside. For some reason the diff is mounted a bit off to the shortside, which was causing engagement issues. Fixed that, then it was getting the cooling system figured out. Removed thermostat, dropped 10degrees..added heater core, dropped another 12degrees.. went through a couple of radiator caps until the Stant 42lb cap yielded better results and went with all water until my shipment of Engine Ice shows up tomorrow. So basically I am running around 225deg at about 6grand in mid 80 deg weather. If I keep it there, it does not creep up higher so I am going to gear it up a bit to keep the rpms down and the engine ice will allow for more rpms to go above. Should be good to go for daily status using the freeway system that makes up the USA. Idling around in traffic I can keep it about -200deg with the fan on and the heater core blowing, #racecarcooling
Last pic of water bending is how I feel about this heated issue. Lol though when I mash on the loud pedal, heat is a afterthought!

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Edited by evolone38, 11 July 2018 - 02:40 AM.

[miller 666]

Watching this with interest, running a Promotive mini over in the UK as a weekend toy working through a few things on it. With current weather I’m struggling with the cooling and a bad resonance around 62-65mph. So loud at that speed, on song it’s fine. But at a constant revs it’s awful, think it’s just a mix of solid mounts and exhaust note.

For cooling I flushed my system, got rid of the heater matrix and run distilled water and water wetter with a rad intake shroud I made to draw air from the front only and to stop sucking hot air from the engine bay. Definitely better but with a revotec fan controller it’s almost always got the fan on. 60mph it sits around 102’c with the fan on. I want to get to the point with the fan not running so it’s actually an efficient setup with room either side. Going to fit a 13 row oil cooler on it soon to see if it helps. Just no room for any more water cooling assistant!

[minidave04]

We’re did you get thelonger drive shafts from

[evolone38]

Watching this with interest, running a Promotive mini over in the UK as a weekend toy working through a few things on it. With current weather I’m struggling with the cooling and a bad resonance around 62-65mph. So loud at that speed, on song it’s fine. But at a constant revs it’s awful, think it’s just a mix of solid mounts and exhaust note.

For cooling I flushed my system, got rid of the heater matrix and run distilled water and water wetter with a rad intake shroud I made to draw air from the front only and to stop sucking hot air from the engine bay. Definitely better but with a revotec fan controller it’s almost always got the fan on. 60mph it sits around 102’c with the fan on. I want to get to the point with the fan not running so it’s actually an efficient setup with room either side. Going to fit a 13 row oil cooler on it soon to see if it helps. Just no room for any more water cooling assistant!

I have had some issues with cooling and such, I am posting below about my findings so far.

[evolone38]

I have various issues with daily driving in the summer and here is one of the options I have fitted. Ninja 250 radiator tied into the heater system and engine ice inside, has lowered the temp over 25 degrees overall. The gearing I have fitted now, 18t front and 14t rear has helped keep the rpm's down on the freeway. Having a 20t and 13t sprockets being machined as I write this.

My biggest problem has been with keeping the passenger/longside driveshaft inner CV boot from getting burnt on the header. Has anyone else have this issue? I have replaced the inner boot over 5 times and been beating on the header to give it more room away from it. I also rewrapped the header tube because it was so close to the boot that the metal boot strap was ripping the original wrap was tore away from the header. This winter I am going to pull the header out, and massage it then, have it ceramic coated. It has been the main issue that keeps sidelining me. The cooling I have been conquering, but this boot meltdowns are killing me. I know this kit is shoehorned, but damn.. this problem. Sitting in traffic, seems to be the worst, just fries the boot while I sit still and stew. 

To answer the question of where I had the driveaxle machined, there is a shop here in Tualatin / Automotive Drivetrain, that makes custom axles and such. Cost me $450.

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Edited by evolone38, 02 September 2018 - 09:53 PM.

[nzeder]

Wow that CV boot problem is an issue. Have you considered going to Hardy Spicer axles ends?

[evolone38]

Wow that CV boot problem is an issue. Have you considered going to Hardy Spicer axles ends?

Yes, yes I have but I think there is not enough room to switch over to it and it would require new lsd output shafts and such likes. Here is my newest version, shaved the inner rib out for more clearance, pulled the boot down farther on the cup and double wired the boot on. ? hope it works..

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[nzeder]

Is your header ceramic coated? I know on my old Datsun 240z race car that made a big difference to the heat on the outside of the pipe (non cross flow like the A Series)

[evolone38]

Header is not ceramic coated, just wrapped. I plan on ceramic coating it when I take it apart, next time.

[evolone38]

https://youtu.be/Pk4vclcpYmM
Here is onboard video of me and the mini doing the 2018 British Field Meet Autocross in Portland. I just so happened to win Class 2 and came in 3rd for top time of the weekend. This was my first event for the car since the swap. The new CV boot mod has been the ticket to no more melting problems.

Edited by evolone38, 17 September 2018 - 04:42 PM.

[KTS]

..now that looks like a lot of fun !! soundtrack is pretty good too 

[duds100]

You're seeing the same issue I had!

 

I had the melty CV issue so switched to Hardy Spicers and it's been fine ever since. I also had cooling issues too so I bolted a second coolant radiator to the top of the subframe tubing running across the front of the engine. Works great as it sits right behind the grill in direct air flow. I even heat wrapped my exhaust but it all got ripped off, space is so tight back there. 

 

20T Front & 13T rear sprocket is going to make it very long legged indeed, will be great for cruising to events. Beaty is you can just switch the sprockets back over when you get to the track

 

For reference, I'm running a 3.4:1 LSD ratio, 19T front & 15T rear sprocket. This gives about 120mph in 6th at 11,000rpm. So 60mph is 5,500 in top. 

Edited by duds100, 19 September 2018 - 08:37 PM.

[evolone38]

@ kts Thanks! It was a blast and I am doing another autocross this weekend hoping for good or better results.

 

@ duds100 I have pondered the Spicer joint configuration, did you have to replace the lsd outputs and how much clearance did you gain? My header massaging and boot wrapping has made a great improvement in the moral of the mini. I have looked into the Titanium setups from Force Racing and want less rotating mass but the cost and particulars have me pondering, especially  since I had custom drive axles machined. I would like to ceramic coat the header and then wrap it but I am also thinking about making a multi piece header that allows pulling the engine with the header upper still bolted and the leaving subframe intact.

 

Not sure what lsd gearing Promotive sent me, but with my 18t 14t I am at 6k at 65mph, I have only went to 105 on top so far.

Edited by evolone38, 21 September 2018 - 08:47 PM.