14 replies to this topic

[maxfox44]

Hi Guys

 

It's that time of the year again, when I tax the Mini, get the classic insurance out and find out how (un)kind the winter has been to my car.

 

This mini is a Rover 1996 1.3i and has a battery drain as long as anyone (me included) can remember.  So I have to keep charging the battery every 2-3 weeks depending on use.  I don't mind that really and one day, I'll work out the cause.  But my question is I've just got a smart charger from Hellfords and it's suitable for all batteries, pb through to gel/agm approved etc.  Can I charge the mini's battery without removing the cables?  They are getting a bit tired from being repeatedly removed and re-fitted each time I charge the battery?

 

Here's the charger in question http://www.halfords....hicles-up-to-3l

 

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for.

 

Max

[Cooperman]

There is no need to remove the battery terminals when charging a battery in-situ.
Just hook up the charger and turn it on. I've been doing that for over 50 years with no problems.
With regard to the drain of power it is probably the wonderful Rover security system. I had the same with a Rover 214Si and a Discovery, both 1996 - 7 models.

[maxfox44]

Thanks for the quick reply!!!

[CityEPete]

I keep mine on a trickle charger at all times when it's in the garage, I've wired the plug to the fuse box rather than messing on the boot every time.

[Spider]

Maybe fit a battery idolator to reduce (eliminate?) drain from the battery and also isolate while charging. There's some very simple types that fit right on the battery post.

 

Like Cooperman, I've only ever just hooked up the charger and switched it on, but perhaps with some of these electronic cars, it could be a wise idea to disconnect the battery for charging. 99 times it'll likely be fine, but one day, the battery could get an open cell,,,,,,

[mikal]

Turn everything off and with a multimeter switched to amps, check every circuit from the fuse box (boxes) one by one. In my case it was a faulty stereo draining a constant 250 mA. 

[russo]

Yes I think Cooperman is correct, The security system will be the culprit. You can get some very good chargers now which you leave on all the time and they only charge on demand.

[Cooperman]

On my Rover 214Si I fitted an FIA battery master switch which solved the problem. That was fine as it was a rally car so had to have that switch. I look after a 1997 Land-Rover which has the same security device and it too loses charge over around a week or so. I have fitted a master switch to that, but as it is an airfield-only vehicle it is not a great problem. My own Land Rover is also 1997, but has an earlier security system and it is fine. That system was only fitted for a short time, for obvious reasons. My Grandson had a 1997 Cooper MPI and that also ran its battery down when left for a while. 

[maxfox44]

Cheers guys, really appreciate your help and suggestions,

[Alice Dooper]

Second that for Cooperman. I’ve a 1997 MPI and did a pretty thorough check of the elactrics when we bought her a couple of years ago. Once we had repaired a few problems here and there, we still had a small power drain that we isolated to the Rover alarm / immobiliser. Our battery is normal capacity so would drain enough to cause her to not start over a couple of months. Though not an issue as we regularly run her up to temp over the winter. Now and again we top up charge the battery in situ or use a smart charger on a winter setting. Just remember to keep check on the battery fluid levels, it can be hard to see them properly with the battery in situ.

The MPI’s seem to need a decent wallop of power to get going. The quality of the Rover cable is fairly poor, insulation goes hard and I’ve seen plenty of oxidised conductors and brittl connections in a few cars. I hade a terminal snap off my brake reservoir this week!!

[Northernpower]

I use a smart charger similar to the one you have put in your link. I've used it for several different cars for some years. On the Mini I have run a wire from each of the battery terminals to a shielded socket. I've replaced the clips on the charger with the matching shielded plug. When I park the Mini in the garage all I have to do plug the charger into the mains and plug the feed into the battery socket. I don't have to take anything out of the boot or lift the boot board.

[Mervyn]

I have a CTEK charger and comfort connectors fitted to my cars to keep them topped up easily

[Northernpower]

I have a CTEK charger and comfort connectors fitted to my cars to keep them topped up easily

I use one on, one of my vehicles and they're very reliable. Highly recommended.

[maccers]

As above I used a Ring charger that also doubles up as a trickle charger for the mini, and also use an Oxford trickle for the bike, both of which dont see much use but when starting battery is full of life.

[maccers]

Both in situ too. Good shout on the fuse box plug.