39 replies to this topic

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I assumed you meant with the arms removed - I should have checked.  Not good to have this movement when fitted to subframe.

 

Grinding off the old ball bearing inner race rings a bell.  Such fun!

[KTS]

Yeah okay thanks that's useful I'll get mine masked up ready, what sort of price should I be looking at to get them sand blasted and powder coated?

Yes I'll give them areas a good clean after to make sure there isn't any there

 

worth pointing out that powder coating radius arms without  stripping the pivot pins etc. can result in problems..

 

http://www.theminifo...=+grease +liner

[Fordy]

A radius arm shaft should turn smoothly between your fingers, and pull in and out.

 

The shafts have a grease nipple on the end, which should be greased regularly.

 

Greasing keeps the needle roller and bush inside clean and stops them wearing out quickly and or seizing (which is rare)

 

Some hub wheel bearings come off easy some don't, as long as they are not spinning on the stub shaft they will be OK.

 

Some of the early roller bearings with brass ball guides can be really difficult and if the inner bearing inner race stays on they need and angle grinder and a chisel to remove them....last resort...

 

Yes one side turned freely and pulled in and out, then the other was solid. I managed to give it a gentle tap out, looks like the shaft had started to rust or get a build up of dry material on it which may have been holding it.

 

Can I just replace the shaft, washers, seals, and keep the original bearing and bush in place? Or does a new bush have to be reamed to the size of the new shaft?

 

Mine just seemed to come off fairly easy just by me pulling them off the stub shaft. Again can the bearing just be replaced or do I have to replace outer the tapered bearings run on?

[Fordy]

I assumed you meant with the arms removed - I should have checked.  Not good to have this movement when fitted to subframe.

 

Grinding off the old ball bearing inner race rings a bell.  Such fun!

 

Unsure when it is fitted as its all on the bench now, I didn't notice any when I removed.

 

Managed to get the shaft out just by tapping it out from one end

[Fordy]

 

Yeah okay thanks that's useful I'll get mine masked up ready, what sort of price should I be looking at to get them sand blasted and powder coated?

Yes I'll give them areas a good clean after to make sure there isn't any there

 

worth pointing out that powder coating radius arms without  stripping the pivot pins etc. can result in problems..

 

http://www.theminifo...=+grease +liner

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. So maybe worth me just getting them sandblasted and then spray them up myself with some decent paint if I don't need to replace the bushes and bearings?.

[KTS]

i think the upshot of that thread is it's only the outer (roller bearing) assembly that needs to be removed (plus of course the grease tube..) if you want to powder coat the radius arms - the brass bushing at the inner end can take the heat.

 

if you're not up for removing the roller bearing races, then sandblast+paint is the only option and consider getting them powder coated when the radius arm eventually needs the bearings replaced

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

A radius arm shaft should turn smoothly between your fingers, and pull in and out.

 

The shafts have a grease nipple on the end, which should be greased regularly.

 

Greasing keeps the needle roller and bush inside clean and stops them wearing out quickly and or seizing (which is rare)

 

Some hub wheel bearings come off easy some don't, as long as they are not spinning on the stub shaft they will be OK.

 

Some of the early roller bearings with brass ball guides can be really difficult and if the inner bearing inner race stays on they need and angle grinder and a chisel to remove them....last resort...

 

Yes one side turned freely and pulled in and out, then the other was solid. I managed to give it a gentle tap out, looks like the shaft had started to rust or get a build up of dry material on it which may have been holding it.

 

Can I just replace the shaft, washers, seals, and keep the original bearing and bush in place? Or does a new bush have to be reamed to the size of the new shaft?

 

Mine just seemed to come off fairly easy just by me pulling them off the stub shaft. Again can the bearing just be replaced or do I have to replace outer the tapered bearings run on?

 

Re your last sentence: 

 

I think you're asking if you can leave the outer races of the wheel bearings in the hub and just change the inner race with the rollers on them. 

 

No, you need to remove the outer races and fit new ones which will be supplied matched to the inners of any wheel bearings you purchase.

 

Spend extra for Timken bearings.

[Retroman]

i think the upshot of that thread is it's only the outer (roller bearing) assembly that needs to be removed (plus of course the grease tube..) if you want to powder coat the radius arms - the brass bushing at the inner end can take the heat.

 

if you're not up for removing the roller bearing races, then sandblast+paint is the only option and consider getting them powder coated when the radius arm eventually needs the bearings replaced

If the grease tube is metal, which most of them are in my experience, then the heat from powder coating is not an issue.

 

Pull the shaft out and check.... clean everything up and mask, then blast, and powder coat if its a metal tube, paint if its plastic.

 

I have powder coated plenty and never had to remove the needle bearings.

[Fordy]

Yeah I see what you're saying, I think unless I need to remove them I'll keep the old ones in, that is if I am able to put a new shaft into the original bush as the shaft looks a little bit contaminated with some sort of rust build up.

 

The grease tube is a white plastic one, so looks like I shall be painting them. 

 

Ok yes I shall look into the Timken bearings for the rears wheel bearings.

[Fordy]

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