Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 27 March 2018 - 09:15 PM
Standard replacement cones will make quite a difference if yours are knackered. Yellow spot are for tarmac racing. Red spots look interesting, I may try these next time mine need replacing. Have a scan at them over at Minispares:
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 28 March 2018 - 12:41 AM
I'm just pricing it all up now to assess which option to go for....
I did have some adjustable camber brackets before removal, but had to grind the tacks off to get to some of the bolts as the nuts/threads were too rusty/corroded to turn.
I have also been looking at the superfin brake drums, are these worth the upgrade from standard spaced hubs?
In regards to the knuckles a few of you have mentioned the ones that I can find online are cylindrical with a rounded top, where as mine that have been taken out are more of a ball shape, is this just the amount of wear they have had or is this just a different type?
The actual knuckle is a round ended steel ball, it sits in a nylon cup which is cylindrical.
The nylon cup stops the ball wearing the socket in the radius arm, until the ball wears through the nylon, then its metal on metal.
When you decide what you need PM me a list, I will beat pretty much anyone on price, and won't supply anything other than geniuine knuckle joints.
Mini Mad
Posted 28 March 2018 - 01:46 PM
Standard replacement cones will make quite a difference if yours are knackered. Yellow spot are for tarmac racing. Red spots look interesting, I may try these next time mine need replacing. Have a scan at them over at Minispares:
Ok thanks for the info, I'll probably just go for the standard replacements, but I'll have a look into the red spots before I fully decide.
Mini Mad
Posted 28 March 2018 - 01:48 PM
The actual knuckle is a round ended steel ball, it sits in a nylon cup which is cylindrical.
The nylon cup stops the ball wearing the socket in the radius arm, until the ball wears through the nylon, then its metal on metal.
When you decide what you need PM me a list, I will beat pretty much anyone on price, and won't supply anything other than geniuine knuckle joints.
Yes that makes sense now, I just couldn't make out from the photos displayed on sites selling them.
Ok thanks, I'm still putting a list together now
Mini Mad
Posted 28 March 2018 - 07:56 PM
Cleaned up some bits today, the bar that connects the rubber cone and the knuckle has printed 'HI-LO PAT.1378496 MADE BY RIP SPEED INTERNATIONAL ENGLAND'
Also I am looking to get the radius arms sandblasted to clean them up nicely, the shafts seems to be in good condition so not removed them, would sandblasting affect the bearings by ingress of the sand? Or do I need to remove them prior to getting them sandblasted?
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 29 March 2018 - 12:28 AM
Looks like you have some Ripspeed HiLo's fitted.
The radius arms can be blasted with the shafts in , take the round rubbers off each end and clean the area they seat. This is the edge of the big flat washers and the very outer ends of the radius arms...8-10mm wide I guess..
You can then wrap that area in masking tape, good and tight, and cover the end right out over the grease nipple at the outer end and the inner shaft at the other end. Make sure you use plenty of masking tape and that its especially tight at the inner edges.
Whoever does the blasting needs to keep off the tape as much as possible.
I have them blasted and powder coated all in one op.
You should find when you take the tape off there is no grit in the washer / end area.
Mini Mad
Posted 29 March 2018 - 01:55 PM
Mini Mad
Posted 29 March 2018 - 02:14 PM
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 29 March 2018 - 04:11 PM
One thing that did worry me a little was how easy the wheel bearings slid off the shaft... fro K my previous experience of bearings they can be a bit of a pain, but first time I've ever taken them off a mini...
Are they ball or taper roller bearings? The taper rollers tend to slide off the stub axle quite easily in my experience. Or maybe I should say I had ball bearings years ago where the inner race of the inner bearing wouldn't come off and the bearing separated and sent the balls all over the driveway - most irritating. I'm not sure they should have been this hard to get off. See what the others say...
Mill Road Garage
Posted 29 March 2018 - 05:42 PM
Wheel bearings on a Mini are taper type with a seperate race so will just slide off of the stub. When changing them, you will need to drift the old races out of the hub to make way for the new ones which will need to be pressed in.
Mini Mad
Posted 30 March 2018 - 12:05 AM
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 30 March 2018 - 07:05 AM
If by side to side you mean as if you are removing/replacing the shaft from the arm then yes that's alright.
Mini Mad
Posted 30 March 2018 - 11:07 AM
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 30 March 2018 - 12:47 PM
One Carb Or Two?
Posted 30 March 2018 - 12:58 PM
A radius arm shaft should turn smoothly between your fingers, and pull in and out.
The shafts have a grease nipple on the end, which should be greased regularly.
Greasing keeps the needle roller and bush inside clean and stops them wearing out quickly and or seizing (which is rare)
Some hub wheel bearings come off easy some don't, as long as they are not spinning on the stub shaft they will be OK.
Some of the early roller bearings with brass ball guides can be really difficult and if the inner bearing inner race stays on they need and angle grinder and a chisel to remove them....last resort...
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