39 replies to this topic

[Fordy]

Over the weekend I have dropped off my rear subframe as it looked like it could do with some attention, plus a number of other items needed to be addressed, handbrake cable, rear brakes, suspension, and maybe some boot panel attention....

 

A few questions I could do with answering from someone who has previously had experience in removing and restoring theirs.

 

1. Is it worth the time effort and money to restore the removed subframe, or is it just as well to buy a new subframe?

 

2. Are there any items that would be worth replacing now that I have the rear subframe removed?

 

3. Previously the brakes, fuel and positive cable were all run under the car, I have seen other car projects in the past on older cars bringing these through the inside of the car to prevent damage/wear, etc. Has anyone any previous experience with doing this?

[cal844]

1. Is there any flaky or thin areas on the frame? If not give it a good clean and paint.


2. Personally I'd fit new brake pipes(front to rear and all on the rear subframe)

New cones and knuckle joints

Reconditioned radius arms(clean them up and paint them once the are back with you)

3. Do you drive along roads with deep potholes? If not why route them through the car?



Hope this is of some help

Edited by cal844, 25 March 2018 - 09:15 PM.

[Fordy]

1. Is there any flaky or thin areas on the frame? If not give it a good clean and paint.


2. Personally I'd fit new brake pipes(front to rear and all on the rear subframe)

New cones and knuckle joints

Reconditioned radius arms(clean them up and paint them once the are back with you)

3. Do you drive along roads with deep potholes? If not why route them through the car?



Hope this is of some help

 

Thanks for the response.

 

1. Yes there are a couple of thin areas, also maybe a couple of areas where the welds look like they may have cracked (got to remove some of the paint to fully reveal how badly)

 

2. Thanks I shall look into them items.

 

3. A lot of the roads have lots of deep pot holes, and big speed bumps which is maybe why I was thinking of doing this.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I recently replaced mine.  Previous owner had fitted the mounts incorrectly.  I then found very dodgy threads on the radius arm brackets so replaced the subframe.  . Radius arms were good but stuck hilos KYBs and new cones on whilst down there and then new hub, bearings and wheel studs.  Gave everything a good coat of underseal and wax in the cavities while access was easy.

 

Just make the most of the opportunity while you're down there.

 

I haven't done it but like the idea of running lines through the interior rally car style - certainly offers more protection especially if you like steaming up rough tracks.

[Dusky]

Depends. How high do you value your time?
I enjoy working on cars, and im not loaded with cash. Like just recently i citric acid bathed my yank tank s suspension arms, painted them etc etc.
But for another yank tank I have I can get the suspension arms new,inc balljoints,bushes,... For 200. And I wont even have to break my back,easy choice! ;- )
So all depends on if you want to spend the time.

[Retroman]

Make sure you use genuine knuckle joints too

[Fordy]

I recently replaced mine.  Previous owner had fitted the mounts incorrectly.  I then found very dodgy threads on the radius arm brackets so replaced the subframe.  . Radius arms were good but stuck hilos KYBs and new cones on whilst down there and then new hub, bearings and wheel studs.  Gave everything a good coat of underseal and wax in the cavities while access was easy.

 

Just make the most of the opportunity while you're down there.

 

I haven't done it but like the idea of running lines through the interior rally car style - certainly offers more protection especially if you like steaming up rough tracks.

 

The bolts on the radius arm brackets on mine came out pretty easy but there is an amount of rust around that area....

 

Yeah while I have it off I'm not in any rush to get it back on so like you say I want to make the most while it is off by getting anyone else's previous experiences of what is best to change/upgrade while it is off.

 

It does, one less thing to have to worry about when you hit a pot hole!!!

[Fordy]

Depends. How high do you value your time?
I enjoy working on cars, and im not loaded with cash. Like just recently i citric acid bathed my yank tank s suspension arms, painted them etc etc.
But for another yank tank I have I can get the suspension arms new,inc balljoints,bushes,... For 200. And I wont even have to break my back,easy choice! ;- )
So all depends on if you want to spend the time.

 

Yes I see what you're saying, it's weighing it up what is going to save me time both now, and maybe in the future if I'd have to just take it off again in a few years.....

[Ben_O]

If the subframe is sound but just has surface rust and flaky paint, consider having it sand blasted.

I do this often and it saves a whole load of grief trying to get in everywhere by hand to remove the rust properly.

 

Once blasted, you can paint it up nicely and jobs done.

 

New frames aren't cheap but if you are in any doubt of the integrity of the current frame, then I would say replace it, especially if you are going to the trouble of replacing the suspension at the same time.

It would be a shame to have to replace the frame down the line a bit and then have the need to transfer everything over again.

[Fordy]

Yes thanks for the response, I would look at getting it sand blasted if kept for ease. It's just trying to make that judgement call on whether the current one is in a good enough condition. But like you say it may be with doing so I don't have to transfer it all over in the future if I'm replacing suspension parts at the same time.

Is there any specific suspension parts that people would recommend?

[ings]

clean everithing and repaint it. i would renew the rubbermounts, brakecylinders, brake pipes and tubes, handbrakecable, whealbearings, knuckles and cones...

Also a good time to upgrade to a adjustable camber brackets...

[Fordy]

I'm just pricing it all up now to assess which option to go for....

 

I did have some adjustable camber brackets before removal, but had to grind the tacks off to get to some of the bolts as the nuts/threads were too rusty/corroded to turn.

 

I have also been looking at the superfin brake drums, are these worth the upgrade from standard spaced hubs?

 

In regards to the knuckles a few of you have mentioned the ones that I can find online are cylindrical with a rounded top, where as mine that have been taken out are more of a ball shape, is this just the amount of wear they have had or is this just a different type?

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Yes thanks for the response, I would look at getting it sand blasted if kept for ease. It's just trying to make that judgement call on whether the current one is in a good enough condition. But like you say it may be with doing so I don't have to transfer it all over in the future if I'm replacing suspension parts at the same time.

Is there any specific suspension parts that people would recommend?

I recommend new rubber cones and KYB Gas-a-just; got rid of a lot of the choppiness and made it almost comfortable!  Just need to do the front now.  Hilos too allow you to fine tune the ride height.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I'm just pricing it all up now to assess which option to go for....

 

I did have some adjustable camber brackets before removal, but had to grind the tacks off to get to some of the bolts as the nuts/threads were too rusty/corroded to turn.

 

I have also been looking at the superfin brake drums, are these worth the upgrade from standard spaced hubs?

 

In regards to the knuckles a few of you have mentioned the ones that I can find online are cylindrical with a rounded top, where as mine that have been taken out are more of a ball shape, is this just the amount of wear they have had or is this just a different type?

In my view Superfins will give minimal advantage in terms of brake performance but will save a little unsprung weight, but at quite a cost. 

 

If your budget is limited concentrate on safety critical parts first, then think about what needs changing for reliability and if there's money left over do the nice bits like suspension upgrades.  The rear end of a Mini is relatively easy to work on compared to a lot of vehicles sp it's not the worst thing in the world if you have to strip the back end twice to spread the cost of things, the first time is the most difficult. 

 

So that contradicts what I said earlier about doing everything while you're there!

[Fordy]

I shall probably leave them till a later date and focus on other parts.

I may just try to save myself the time of taking it off again in the near future and replace the subframe itself.

I have seen there are different types of Cone... standard, red spot, yellow spot, is there much of a difference?