13 replies to this topic

[mullet]

Hi all.  I've read a few threads on hammerite (which seems not so popular these days?) or equivalent in out of site areas, like subframes, etc.  But not on visible bodywork.  My apologies if this question is duplicated.

 

So, my permanently outside car is jet black and has the odd area of bubbling paintwork/rust that I want to keep well in check.

 

One day I hope to afford a garage and then treat it to a uniform respray, but until then I want to find a way to treat these areas so they do not get worse and not spend massive amounts of time on it given it will get reversed into, etc, until I get that garage.  I don't mind if the paintwork looks a little patchy here or there because, being a street car, it already has had its share of knocks and will continue to have as long as it remains outside.

 

Being on the street, spray paint is not an option due to many other parked cars.  I wonder what black paints can be brush-painted on bear metal and set to a fairly smooth finished appearance, and perhaps 'cut' with some product to make it fairly flat with surrounding paint?  Like some kind of non-textured hammerite? 

 

Appearances are not the main concern now, so the most important thing I can think of is this:  would this paint cause issues later on when it eventually gets entirely repainted (ie, cause issues with new paint taking to bodywork)?

[Steve220]

The issue youre mostly likely going to face is if you take the current paint off the blistered parts, itll be rotten underneath and maybe even no metal at all. Do you kno2 anyone that can weld? As you may need to do some patch work.

[1984mini25]

Appearances are not the main concern now, so the most important thing I can think of is this:  would this paint cause issues later on when it eventually gets entirely repainted (ie, cause issues with new paint taking to bodywork)?

 

Having had a mini rollered with hammerite/metal paint and rustoleum and then finally painted 'properly'. Hammerite isn't over paintable by anything other than hammerite and even then you can get issues, and cannot be flatted and polished. So when the time come all traces of the hammerite would have to be removed to stop any reactions with the new paint.

 

If the patches of rust aren't too large, maybe you could scrape away at the larger bits with a flat screwdriver, then brush/blob some paint on from an aerosol by spraying some into the lid first.  

[Dusky]

Hammerite isn't the ideal paint for this job; but there are some good paints out there that can be rolled on.
I'll even dare to say that, with enough time, wetsanding and dedication, you won't see the difference between a 'real' paintjob or a rolled job. But prepare to sand and polish A LOT.

[greenwheels]

Hammerite is great in subframes. I painted my rear subframe in 2004 and it's only just beginning to show it's age, I'll touch it up this summer. Not for skin surfaces though if only because the rust is probably coming through from the other side. Only answer is to remove all the rust like the dandelions in my front lawn last summer and repairing the holes by welding and finishing properly with undercoat and topcoat. Anything else is just more work in a years time.

[mullet]

Thanks for the replies on this! Can anyone recommend a roll on product? Dusky you seem to have experience of this? Most rust is very minor. Mostly surface only from the odd knock here or there, but points taken regarding tackling rust from both sides where needed! Is hammerite also unsuitable to coat the inside of panels too, but with correct surface products?

[cradley-heathen]

I appreciate that you say you don't have a garage to work in but I think you would be just as well using a rattle can to repair the painted areas as you would be to use hammerite. hammerite takes an eternity to dry too.

 

I have rolled cellulose onto things like a garage door, or some big bits of steel before and the paint has looked pretty good for those kinds of things. you could always try that? it was just as case of buying a tin and diluting it to what seemed to be the right amount and then rolling it on

[mullet]

Thanks MetroMan.  I think I will try on some scrap metal to see the effect

[minidaves]

enamel type paints give a good finish with little effort

[Dusky]

Ive seen beautifull roll on jobs with standard celly and enough thinners.
Another trick was some 'owatrol' in the paint to keep it flowing. All cars used to be rolled 100 years ago 😉

[mullet]

I just wanted to update this thread, after a drunk crashed into the back of my parked mini writing his car off (the engine fell out), but with a few minor scratches to the boot.  Lucky no one hurt.

 

A professional repaired the minor damage and new paint went over the temporary 'Hammerited' area I painted.  Looks great now.  That was some months ago now.  Time will tell, but to me it seemed like a good temporary way to to prevent rust getting worse if one day you plan to get a better paint job.  I know not ideal and a bit of a bodge approach, but there you go.

[g0myw]

rightly or wrongly I've used hamerite onthe the floor/sills/wheelarches.
Interestingly I had a large can of the 'old fashioned / proper' stuff on the shelf.

I'm guessing 'elf&saftey made them change the formula..

[mullet]

Hi g0myw.  The Hammerite I used was only a couple of years old and still seemed to go on well.  Is it not as good as it used to be?  I have a friend with a pit for getting under cars; would you recommended I give everywhere underneath a good going over with hammerite one day?

[g0myw]

OK Mullet, I'm sure there are many differing views on underbody treatment.!
In my/our case the mpi mini has lived in a garage for over 15 years with minimal usage.
There was a small amount of surface corrosion starting on the factory finish paint..
I got that rubbed back and treated.
I had no real thought process in the decision - other than there was a can of red hammerite on the shelf in good order.!
atb, Jon

Edited by g0myw, 26 November 2019 - 12:41 PM.