9 replies to this topic

[IVEGOTTHEBLUES]

My mini decided to start leaking oil the other day and i finally got round to checking it out today.

 

the leak seems to  be coming from the passenger side underneath the engine (see pic)

 

im wondering how hard is it to change the gasket and how much work is required. im used to working on bikes but working on a mini is new for me. any help is appreciated!

 

cheers

 

 

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[Northernpower]

The first to do is to identify where the leak is from. If you're used to working on bikes you'll know hot oil travels a long way. The likely candidate is the timing chain cover gasket and or crank oil seal. Obviously you don't do one without the other. You can do it in situ.

[IVEGOTTHEBLUES]

The first to do is to identify where the leak is from. If you're used to working on bikes you'll know hot oil travels a long way. The likely candidate is the timing chain cover gasket and or crank oil seal. Obviously you don't do one without the other. You can do it in situ.

 

I'll be jacking the car up this weekend for a better inspection but it appears that the leak is coming from where the pictures are but i dont know my way around a mini..

[Northernpower]

What I would suggest is get the oil nice and hot before you jack it up so you can trace it back to the source.

[IVEGOTTHEBLUES]

What I would suggest is get the oil nice and hot before you jack it up so you can trace it back to the source.

 

It seems like the oil is leaking from where ive took a picture. Do you know how hard it is to change the gasket?

 

cheers

[Northernpower]

 

What I would suggest is get the oil nice and hot before you jack it up so you can trace it back to the source.

 

It seems like the oil is leaking from where ive took a picture. Do you know how hard it is to change the gasket?

 

cheers

 

You can do it in situ, its fiddley but if you take your time it will be ok. First drain the oil. You'll need to remove the radiator, and support the gearbox on a jack with a piece of wood between the casing and the jack. You need to remove the LH engine mount. This will then allow you to undo the engine mount casting from the speedo housing. You will then be able to remove the speedo housing and replace the gasket. You need to clean up the joint faces, not everyone does but I use some RTV sealant on the joints. If you do use RTV you need apply the thinnest smear you possibly can (you don't want any excess going into the box). Replace the parts and change the oil filter and refill with oil.

Edited by Northernpower, 09 November 2017 - 01:44 PM.

[IVEGOTTHEBLUES]

 

 

What I would suggest is get the oil nice and hot before you jack it up so you can trace it back to the source.

 

It seems like the oil is leaking from where ive took a picture. Do you know how hard it is to change the gasket?

 

cheers

 

You can do it in situ, its fiddley but if you take your time it will be ok. First drain the oil. You'll need to remove the radiator, and support the gearbox on a jack with a piece of wood between the casing and the jack. You need to remove the LH engine mount. This will then allow you to undo the engine mount casting from the speedo housing. You will then be able to remove the speedo housing and replace the gasket. You need to clean up the joint faces, not everyone does but I use some RTV sealant on the joints. If you do use RTV you need apply the thinnest smear you possibly can (you don't want any excess going into the box). Replace the parts and change the oil filter and refill with oil.

 

 

 

Thank you for your help. I will be giving this a go this weekend.

[Northernpower]

 

 

 

What I would suggest is get the oil nice and hot before you jack it up so you can trace it back to the source.

 

It seems like the oil is leaking from where ive took a picture. Do you know how hard it is to change the gasket?

 

cheers

 

You can do it in situ, its fiddley but if you take your time it will be ok. First drain the oil. You'll need to remove the radiator, and support the gearbox on a jack with a piece of wood between the casing and the jack. You need to remove the LH engine mount. This will then allow you to undo the engine mount casting from the speedo housing. You will then be able to remove the speedo housing and replace the gasket. You need to clean up the joint faces, not everyone does but I use some RTV sealant on the joints. If you do use RTV you need apply the thinnest smear you possibly can (you don't want any excess going into the box). Replace the parts and change the oil filter and refill with oil.

 

 

 

Thank you for your help. I will be giving this a go this weekend.

 

Good luck, take some pictures and let us know how you get on.

[Mini-Mouse]

How's it going?

 

I've literally had the exact same problem for a year and decided to do something about this week.

 

I'm changing the timing gasket and seal in the hope that sorts it. It's hard to tell exactly where the leak's coming from but I think mine was dripping onto the speedo housing from the timing cover and running down to the bottom. 

 

I've been told that the speedo housing rarely leaks and the timing cover often does, so I'm leaving the speedo alone.

 

I too, am only used to working on bikes but I've managed one way another. To do the whole job I've had to remove: bonnet, grille, ignition coil, distributor cap, alternator, radiator, starter motor and water pump. Sounds a lot but only took 2-3 days of on-off work. Just followed a Haynes maunual. 

[IVEGOTTHEBLUES]

How's it going?

 

I've literally had the exact same problem for a year and decided to do something about this week.

 

I'm changing the timing gasket and seal in the hope that sorts it. It's hard to tell exactly where the leak's coming from but I think mine was dripping onto the speedo housing from the timing cover and running down to the bottom. 

 

I've been told that the speedo housing rarely leaks and the timing cover often does, so I'm leaving the speedo alone.

 

I too, am only used to working on bikes but I've managed one way another. To do the whole job I've had to remove: bonnet, grille, ignition coil, distributor cap, alternator, radiator, starter motor and water pump. Sounds a lot but only took 2-3 days of on-off work. Just followed a Haynes maunual. 

 

Hi,

 

Sorry for the late response..

 

Slight update, unfortunately for me at this moment in time I’m unable to work on the car myself due to certain circumstances. So on this occasion I’ve had to book the mini into the garage and let them take care of it for me. It’s booked in on Saturday so will hopefully be sorted soon. I will update when I know what the problem was.