10 replies to this topic

[malc_west]

I'm looking for a straight answer on what product to use for a particular job, I'm sanding back a car to bare metal and wish to prime sections of it as i go along due to the garage being slightly damp and not wanting surface rust to keep cropping up while I'm working on the next section. The car when finished will be done in cellulose paint, does the outside, inside and underside require different base primers? or do I use the same all over for the initial coat AND what primer type and brand should I use? could some one post a link if possible. (I have brought a compresser spray gun)
Sorry about the way this is written I've read a lot on the internet and I'm super confused and don't want to wreck it at this early stage
Thanks guys

[Laurie]

I used upol etch primer on my bonnet, that was out of a spray can but I do know they also do it in tins as my top coat auto paint supplier / mixer sell it.

[Daz1968]

If you want to prevent water ingress then use an epoxy primer, it is suitable for over coating with cellulose,

[Furyan]

This is what I use over bare metal http://www.arc-rite....ze-colour-513-p its was recommended to me by a local Land Rover restorer, so if its good enough for old Land Rovers it'll be good enough for old minis, it is 2 pack though so care must be taken when spraying and double check with them that you can over paint it with cellulose.
 
As you are doing the car panel by panel I would give your finished panel a good coat of this epoxy then just leave it and move onto the next panel until all the panels are done then sand the epoxy all over,if you break through to the metal prime again with the epoxy.This epoxy is a high build primer so you could,if you wanted to, just give it two coats of this primer, then sand the car again then apply the top coats of your choice or prime the first coat of sanded epoxy with cellulose primer, sand again and then top coat with your cellulose.
 
This epoxy paint can be used for your inside, outside and underside, its worth saying though that it needs to go over solid non rusty metal, if you paint it over the rust the rust is still there and will just come back,  its not a rust treatment.
 
Hope that helps a little.

Edited by Furyan, 09 September 2017 - 08:41 PM.

[danny79]

if shed is damp, 2 pack epoxy it.

 

Epoxy primer is waterproof and tough as old nails.

 

I've found lechler to be the best, and can be tinted to what ever colour you want

[FlyingScot]

Bilthamber electrox. You can buy this in tins to spray and also in aerosol so if it's just a small panel you don't need to set up your spray gun.

FS

[malc_west]

Cheers lads, some one mentioned bilt hamber before, is it ok for panel work I thought it was more components paint like a subframe coat or something?

[Daz1968]

My choice was hb body 989 high build epoxy, only other I tried was the jawel one and that was ok, they both build and flat ok,

[Swift_General]

+1 for Bilt Hamber electrox. I am 3 years into a restoration and parts that I sprayed with it 3 years ago are still fine. They also do an Epoxy and other products.

[evansisgreat]

I swear by bilt hamber stuff. I'm painting a new wing on my daily just now. I'm taking it to bare metal then using a light coat etching primer, electrox, epoxy primer, then high build to get it perfectly flat and ready for base coat. All bilt hamber.

[mattmiglia]

I also use Electrox in cans to spray as I go during a resto