27 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

With either location rings or dowels (Cooper & S) it is very easy with bolts. The exhaust will not really move far out of line so long as the top engine steady is left connected and it is easy to persuade it back into place when the head is re-fitted.

 

I have seen an exhaust valve fitted to a Cooper 'S' in a one-hour service period on a major rally. Of course, the valve didn't get lapped in, but it lased until the end of the event.

 

Each to their own, but I've been using bolts since 1964.

[paulrockliffe]

Not sure I follow the difficulty with alignment. The manifold are currently aligned only by the studs, I'll get the save alignment with the bikes won't I?

Educate me.

Cheers

[Cooperman]

I've never had a problem with re-alignment when re-fitting as the exhaust and inlet manifolds hardly move.

[Spider]

I've done both ways.

 

Noted Cooperman and others like Bolts, but I prefer the Studs with the Long Brass Nuts. I fit it much easier to get the Manifolds lined up and a few of the middle sets, when using bolts I found a real super fiddle to get started.

 

Each to their own and maybe try it both ways before making up your own mind.

[sledgehammer]

I've done both ways.

 

Noted Cooperman and others like Bolts, but I prefer the Studs with the Long Brass Nuts. I fit it much easier to get the Manifolds lined up and a few of the middle sets, when using bolts I found a real super fiddle to get started.

 

Each to their own and maybe try it both ways before making up your own mind.

 

it all depends on finger / hand size
 

bigger isn't always better  

 

also having the right spanner or socket / ratchet helps

[paulrockliffe]

Yeah, that's true, I've gone through about 10 different combinations of extensions and what not to get something on some of them and be able to turn it!  The worse one falls between one size extension and another, such that it jams the ratchet against the carb before I can switch to the shorter extension, have to do that one last so the carb can move back with the nut!  

 

Not sure if it's tighter being a Minus or not too.

[nicklouse]

Yeah, that's true, I've gone through about 10 different combinations of extensions and what not to get something on some of them and be able to turn it!  The worse one falls between one size extension and another, such that it jams the ratchet against the carb before I can switch to the shorter extension, have to do that one last so the carb can move back with the nut!  

 

Not sure if it's tighter being a Minus or not too.

1/2 or 3/8s drive?

 

and some manifolds make it worse than other.

[Northernpower]

I use allen headed set screws with thick machined washers on mine.

[Spider]

I usually us a 1/4" drive socket set and for the middle two nuts, sometimes using a 13 mm socket instead of a 1/2" allows one to get a little extra and welcome off-set to get the job done.

 

I use allen headed set screws with thick machined washers on mine.

 

Yes, I've done that too and found of the bolts choice, Cap-head bolts were considerably easier to fit up.

[Magneto]

I use what we call wobble sockets to get to those hard to reach inner nuts......

 

[skoughi]

I'll be taking the head off this next week to check various things and back cut the valves, I think I'll be taking out the manifold studs and finding online some hex headed unf set screws after reading this!

[paulrockliffe]

I actually end up with 1/4" sockets for most of them.  I have a wobble adapter thing now that probably would help - forgot I had them - a set of proper sockets would be good to add to the kit though, not seen those before.

[Cooperman]

You might note that Ford always bolted their manifolds on their cars.