57 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

 

 

I think I'd go with one of these cams with 1.5 roller rockers and a 3.44 diff.

nope you dont want 1:1.5 rockers

 

Nick,.......I was just stating my preference and not telling him.

You however....

 

seen the wear they do to cams? if you are building a new engine for torque and you need to fit 1:1.5 rockers you have speced something wrong. that is my thoughts. there is the correct cam out there without the need to high lift rockers.

 

oh yes i have full rollers on the race car. 

[neal]

I think I'd go with one of these cams with 1.5 roller rockers and a 3.44 diff.

nope you dont want 1:1.5 rockers

Nick,.......I was just stating my preference and not telling him.

You however....

seen the wear they do to cams? if you are building a new engine for torque and you need to fit 1:1.5 rockers you have speced something wrong. that is my thoughts. there is the correct cam out there without the need to high lift rockers.
 
oh yes i have full rollers on the race car.

Perhaps if you explained this to Rusty then he could understand the pitfalls, then with your wealth of knowledge you could have then advised a spec that would be zippy on the roads without spending a fortune.

But what you did say was 'nope you dont want 1:1.5 rockers' without reason or explanation, not everyone lives and breathes mini like you do, you've got to admit that you were a little sharp? Can we all be friends and not bicker?

[Rusty1182]

I Think the best option for my self would be to just do the basics.

Replace my exhaust as the current one is too large at 2"

and replace my inlet manifold as previous owener added maestro one

then just add a gas flowed head and replace the diff.


i can then enjoy a slightly improved engine and start saving for a new build in the next few years

[Rusty1182]

a lightend flywheel and 1.5.1 rollers where recomended for now by one of the better mini parts supliers.

then build a new engine when i have the funds transfering the flywheel and 1.5.1 to the new engine.

[neal]

Good idea, keep it cheap for now and enjoy your car.

[Rusty1182]

the head needs changing anyway its leaded and suposibly been run without lead aditive for a while

Edited by Rusty1182, 22 August 2017 - 07:23 PM.

[Spider]

a lightend flywheel and 1.5.1 rollers where recomended for now by one of the better mini parts supliers.

then build a new engine when i have the funds transfering the flywheel and 1.5.1 to the new engine.

 

From your thread title, you are looking for 'torque' or to perhaps better re-phrase it, low to mid power?

 

To make 'better' power in that part of the RPM band, stick with stock rocker ratios.

 

A Tip I'll pass on here is when setting up the Cam, try it advanced by 4 -5 degrees from what's recommended. Don't go any further than 5 degrees with this though, unless you check the clearances between the Inlet Valve and the Piston.

 

 

If you are building a 'screamer', then fit 1.5:1 rockers.

[Mrpeanut]

I Think the best option for my self would be to just do the basics.

Replace my exhaust as the current one is too large at 2"

and replace my inlet manifold as previous owener added maestro one

then just add a gas flowed head and replace the diff.


i can then enjoy a slightly improved engine and start saving for a new build in the next few years

I did similar with my stock 1275 copper. I added a decent head that would make immediate improvements with the stock cam, but be good enough when I pulled the engine to rebuild / upgrade. When adding the head I fitted a stage 1 kit, a recurved dizzy and had it set up on the rollers. It pushed the performance from 61bhp to well over 70 and loads more torque. A few hundred quid well spent.
When the engine came out and was rebored to 1330 I fitted a Minispares Evo1 cam (very 266 ish and lots of torque), standard rockers (high lift will wear the cam quicker and reduce low end power but increase at top end - seems to be the opposite of what you're seeking) and then had it set up on the rollers. It gave something like 85bhp and 88 torque at under 5k. It pulled very well. My only regret is that I left the 3.1 diff and in my next build (it will be similar) I'll fit either a 3.2 or 3.44 for a but more acceleration.

AC Dodd has been mentioned. He knows his stuff and his own cam grinds are very good - Neil slark raves about the results they give on his rollers.

Have fun.

[neal]

See Racingbob's spec, low cost with bags of useable/sensible power.

[Rusty1182]

Thanks will do

[Ethel]

High lift rockers won't wear the cam if you pick the valve springs accordingly - though  it is expense you don't need as most cams are designed for standard rocker ratios. HP is just torque x rpm so plenty of sound advice about choosing the right final drive. Work out a target top speed and choose a diff to get you there, being realistic about what your engine can produce. It's how the factory did it in the pre A+ days.

 

More sound advice about engine management, with clockwork ignition  you more or less had the " tells the right time twice a day" option, so ignition was biased towards giving the best advance where at the revs that gave max power at W.O.T. You can gain a lot of driveability  with programmable ignition making the most of all load and rpm conditions.

 

Lightweight fly wheels can help you get off the line, but every change up gear diminishes the advantage and energy stored in a spinning flywheel is extra energy available accelerate the  whole car.

[Midas Mk1]

I'm amazed by the SW5 with 1.5's on my daily, previously ran an sw10 which was a blast but had to be worked, literally 80lbft of torque from under 2k all the way up peaking at 95lbft, so driveable, and having mapped ignition and fuelling helps even more I suppose.

Edited by Midas Mk1, 23 August 2017 - 07:02 AM.

[Carlos W]

A balanced flywheel on a road car is more important than a lightened one.

 

I've got an AC Dodd RS cam, 1.3:1 rockers, megajolt ignition, 3.1:1 diff, modified head, weight matched pistons and rods

 

Unfortunately the car isn't finished yet so I don't know how well it goes, but I'd hope for 90BHP and 90ftlbs of torque

[Mrpeanut]

See Racingbob's spec, low cost with bags of useable/sensible power.

Bob's mini goes incredibly well and is not far from the ideal fast road spec in my view. It's set up for the bends/ lanes and has power / torque where needed, not at the top end. Even before he fitted the new head, and when I was running a 1293 with a 286, he would leave me for dead driving the country lanes. Sure I had more horses, but torque is where the real power is in the real world and his little lump was by far the better on the road.

The only issue for someone replicating bobs spec is that he has an mg metro cam which is no longer available in its original format, but that cam could be improved on anyway with a more modern grind. My next build will be similar to bobs but I'll be running the minispares evo1 cam (also marketed as the 264) which is very similar to the mg metro but is a little bit more cam and with more lift. Essentially it's a more modern version If I didn't have the evo1 in the garage I'd consider one of AC's cams, probably his RS or RT.

[Carlos W]

 

See Racingbob's spec, low cost with bags of useable/sensible power.

Bob's mini goes incredibly well and is not far from the ideal fast road spec in my view. It's set up for the bends/ lanes and has power / torque where needed, not at the top end. Even before he fitted the new head, and when I was running a 1293 with a 286, he would leave me for dead driving the country lanes. Sure I had more horses, but torque is where the real power is in the real world and his little lump was by far the better on the road.

The only issue for someone replicating bobs spec is that he has an mg metro cam which is no longer available in its original format, but that cam could be improved on anyway with a more modern grind. My next build will be similar to bobs but I'll be running the minispares evo1 cam (also marketed as the 264) which is very similar to the mg metro but is a little bit more cam and with more lift. Essentially it's a more modern version If I didn't have the evo1 in the garage I'd consider one of AC's cams, probably his RS or RT.

 

Dodd will provide all his cam specs on request.

 

He gave me a lot of advice when I was choosing a cam, I kind ofregrettednot going for an RS+ for a while, but he said for a long lasting engine the RS was the way to go