
Spi Cooper Turns Over But Won't Start
#1
Posted 07 August 2017 - 08:40 PM
I have tried to follow some of the advise from the link below and replace capillary lines as my engine cuts out from time to time and is a bit lumpy. Turned out the line from ECU to fuel trap was missing completely!
http://www.theminifo...oint-injection/
I have now got the new parts fitted but have had to disconnect the ECU to get the line fitted. Not sure if it's required but I forgot to disconnect the battery first?
Now that I have got the car back together the engine turns over but won't start and I don't really know where to start? It usually starts first time and was last running a couple of weeks ago, I have checked that the spark plugs work and have now left the battery on charge overnight to confirm it has a full charge (I have tried to start it quite a few times)
I have also left the battery disconnected for a hour before trying again, I now just get a ticking noise for a few seconds from the engine bay when I turn the key back off. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
#2
Posted 07 August 2017 - 10:22 PM
Bad earth
#3
Posted 08 August 2017 - 09:10 AM
#4
Posted 08 August 2017 - 04:19 PM
I have brought a new battery and tried the inertia switch just in case but still no change. I still get the ticking noise when I move the key back.
I had a suggestion to earth directly to the ecu as a test which doesn't make a difference.
Anything else I can try?
#5
Posted 08 August 2017 - 04:55 PM
Is the starter turning the motor?
Is there a spark - careful best to use something like these http://www.halfords....on-spark-tester
Is there fuel? Take off the air cleaner assembly and with someone's help to crank it (assuming you get to this point) is there fuel spraying out of the injector into the body?
FS
#6
Posted 09 August 2017 - 04:43 PM
Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit unsure what I'm checking here, if the spark plugs are sparking does that rule out electrical fault (other than the fuel pump) and the ECU? I was assuming that the ecu was at fault as that's all I've touched!
I have taken the air filter off but I'm waiting for another pair of hands to turn the engine over while I have a look around.
The aux belt and fan are spinning when I turn it over so I assume the motor is turning?
#7
Posted 09 August 2017 - 08:37 PM
When you turn the ignition on, the turn before it turns over, you should hear the fuel pump start and run for around 10 seconds. It will be a very faint buzzing/wurring sound.
If this is not happening check the inertia switch or fuses ect
#8
Posted 10 August 2017 - 08:54 PM
I have 12v power to the fuel pump but I don't hear a noise when I turn the key
I have power to the inertia switch and I have pressed it but I don't know what else I can do to test this?
I can see a small amount of fuel from the injector ...don't really know how much there should be?
I have removed the fuel in pipe (engine side) and turned the engine over but the only fuel to come out is a small trickle (I assume what is already in the pipe). I'm guessing this should be pressurised?
Does this point at the fuel pump or fuel filter? ...or are there still a million other things it could be?
Thanks again
#9
Posted 11 August 2017 - 05:30 PM
#10
Posted 11 August 2017 - 07:25 PM
FS
#11
Posted 21 August 2017 - 07:32 AM
Finally got some time to replace the fuel pump and managed to break the following in the process!
https://www.datch.fr...=45_4524_452418
Anyone know where I can get hold of one of these or what I can use as a replacement? Mini Spares have advised that this is no longer available!
Thanks
#12
Posted 21 August 2017 - 03:56 PM
It is listed as part 28 on the following diagram:
http://minispares.co...s.aspx?2~18~176
Can anyone tell me what this does or if/how I can bypass this?
Thanks
#13
Posted 21 August 2017 - 04:13 PM
Do you have a tachometer and does it read solid RPM while cranking the engine? If the RPM readings are erratic the crank position sensor is suspect. Also, if the CPS is bad the ECU will turn off the fuel pump.
Edited by xrocketengineer, 22 August 2017 - 05:36 PM.
#14
Posted 21 August 2017 - 09:59 PM
Doesn't look like I have much choice but to go with the option of bypassing the 2 way valve, does anyone know if there is any value in keeping the Fuel cut off valve or should I just bypass both? ...the fuel cut off valve does sound like a more important part but doesn't the inertia switch do the same thing?
...sorry for all the questions!!
#15
Posted 26 August 2017 - 04:39 PM
I can pour a small amount of fuel into the throttle body and it then starts briefly, when I turn it over the normally it doesn't register anything on the tachometer ...it does when I pour the petrol in to get it started
Any ideas? ...I think I'm giving up and going to get a tow to the garage next week!
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