20 replies to this topic

[paulk 7364]

Where's the best and cheapest place to buy
Arp cylinder head bolts from ?
For a 9 stud 1275 block
Is this the best route to go down or are there cheaper good
Quality ones out there ?

[slidehammer]

^{In my opinion the standard later Y stamped ones used in the A plus engines are high tensile and are absolutely fine for most other than extremely high compression / high output engines. Most head gasket failures aren't anything to do with the bolts.}

Edited by slidehammer, 06 August 2017 - 10:57 AM.

[AlexMozza]

Best and cheapest are two different things.
I've never had issues with the standard studs, although I tend to replace them with every build.

We sell them at somerford mini for a fair price

[ACDodd]

I don't like the stock studs. Those sold by minispares in there uprated kits are much better and a good price too.

Ac

[Cooperman]

That's what I use.

[Spider]

The last of the factory original head studs, identified by the tapered ends, and their matching nuts (with the built in washers) are very good, but seem to be NLA now. There's a lot of rubbish replacements getting about, but these are not a genuine item and best avoided.

 

Mini Spares have a set:

 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

which are good and for most work, a very suitable alternative to ARP.

[Northernpower]

The last of the factory original head studs, identified by the tapered ends, and their matching nuts (with the built in washers) are very good, but seem to be NLA now. There's a lot of rubbish replacements getting about, but these are not a genuine item and best avoided.
 
Mini Spares have a set:
 
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
 
which are good and for most work, a very suitable alternative to ARP.

I'm surprised at what they're recommending for the torque setting, 65lbs using lube, 55lbs without. I've always used 45lbs. What's your thoughts?

[Spider]

 

The last of the factory original head studs, identified by the tapered ends, and their matching nuts (with the built in washers) are very good, but seem to be NLA now. There's a lot of rubbish replacements getting about, but these are not a genuine item and best avoided.
 
Mini Spares have a set:
 
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
 
which are good and for most work, a very suitable alternative to ARP.

I'm surprised at what they're recommending for the torque setting, 65lbs using lube, 55lbs without. I've always used 45lbs. What's your thoughts?

 

 

While the studs & nuts are likely to be able to take 65 ft / lb, the deck on the blocks doesn't like it. On these, I take them up to 50 ft /lb, same as the last of the factory fasteners.

 

Just one point, which I'll try to put across in words here, is that with any fastener that must clamp up 'tight' it does have to be stretched by tightening it up, to the upper ends of the material's elastic range for it to work correctly in the application. If it's not and it's a dynamic situation, the 'dynamics' can cause the fastener to further stretch, well within it's limits, but allow for (say in this case) a gasket failure. There's a pretty good explanation in the ARP Catalogue, definitely recommended reading.

[Northernpower]

 

The last of the factory original head studs, identified by the tapered ends, and their matching nuts (with the built in washers) are very good, but seem to be NLA now. There's a lot of rubbish replacements getting about, but these are not a genuine item and best avoided.
 
Mini Spares have a set:
 
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
 
which are good and for most work, a very suitable alternative to ARP.

I'm surprised at what they're recommending for the torque setting, 65lbs using lube, 55lbs without. I've always used 45lbs. What's your thoughts?
 

 
While the studs & nuts are likely to be able to take 65 ft / lb, the deck on the blocks doesn't like it. On these, I take them up to 50 ft /lb, same as the last of the factory fasteners.
 
Just one point, which I'll try to put across in words here, is that with any fastener that must clamp up 'tight' it does have to be stretched by tightening it up, to the upper ends of the material's elastic range for it to work correctly in the application. If it's not and it's a dynamic situation, the 'dynamics' can cause the fastener to further stretch, well within it's limits, but allow for (say in this case) a gasket failure. There's a pretty good explanation in the ARP Catalogue, definitely recommended reading.

I've drilled and tapped my block for the extra two studs to the same diameter as the rest, I notice the original 11 stud blocks where the two extra smaller diameter ones have a torque setting significantly less and I understand why.

Is there sufficient meat in the block when they have been fitted later to tighten up studs 10 and 11 to the same setting as the other 9?

[nicklouse]

the two extra, is actually wrong it was one extra stud and a bolt.

 

the stud is torqued the same but the smaller bolt is less. this is due to the lack of material in the block in that area.

[Spider]

Yeah, that 11th one, be it a bolt (which was 5/16" originally) or stud - the deck is pretty thin there - 25 ft / lb MAX.

 

Just as a side note, if the blocks aren't already drilled for the extra 2, I don't drill them at all. I think / feel it not only doesn't help, but actually makes matters worse. Just my thoughts on them.

[Northernpower]

Yeah, that 11th one, be it a bolt (which was 5/16" originally) or stud - the deck is pretty thin there - 25 ft / lb MAX.
 
Just as a side note, if the blocks aren't already drilled for the extra 2, I don't drill them at all. I think / feel it not only doesn't help, but actually makes matters worse. Just my thoughts on them.

Too late, it's drilled and tapped now for two studs the same size as the others, so are you saying keep those two to 25lbs?

[Turbo Phil]

The one by the thermostat housing should only be torqued to 25ft/lb,the extra stud at the other end can be torqued as normal.

Phil.

[Northernpower]

The one by the thermostat housing should only be torqued to 25ft/lb,the extra stud at the other end can be torqued as normal.

Phil.

Ok thanks, that's what it'll get.

[nicklouse]

Yeah, that 11th one, be it a bolt (which was 5/16" originally) or stud - the deck is pretty thin there - 25 ft / lb MAX.

 

Just as a side note, if the blocks aren't already drilled for the extra 2, I don't drill them at all. I think / feel it not only doesn't help, but actually makes matters worse. Just my thoughts on them.

i was going to ask you guys that might know the blocks that were originally 11 "stud" did they have more material under the stud or was there no difference?

 

was there a difference there A to A+?