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What Wire?


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#1 Laurie

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 07:38 PM

I'm starting at the easy bits on my car, in this case it's the number plate lamp, everything is brand new and I'd like to extend this to the wire as well.
So...first of all how does the wire attach to the two little lamp holders, and second, which wire do I use? I've already googled and the results are so mixed for car cable you wouldn't believe!
I want to do this right, if you can also guide me how long the wires have to be is be grateful

The existing lamp holder is chrome and is going to stay in place for as long as possible until the great swap over so don't ask me to just remove the existing lamp and physically look

#2 alex-95

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 08:43 PM

You can use thin wall wire from the link below, you can use the 11 amp but I would go for the 16 amp, and choose what colours you need ( red and black for the numberplate lamp), I'm pretty sure you'd need female blade connectors for it, you can get 2 types of these, insulated and non insulated. not sure how long a length you'll need but you have to buy a metre and I think that will be long enough, get a bit of string and roughly eye it up where the wires will route.

https://www.autoelec...70/category/114



#3 panky

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 08:55 PM

I took a picture when I took mine off so I got it back the same way

 

X3jyQpF.jpg

 

The connections the wires attach too double up as spring clips to hold the bulbs in place.

Sorry not a very clear pic, but the female connectors on the end of the wires are insulated.


Edited by panky, 05 August 2017 - 08:58 PM.


#4 Laurie

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 09:12 PM

That's super! Many many thanks 🙏 The picture is brilliant and shows great detail x

I think we've got a huge reel of household 16A cable in the garage (for wiring up some sockets and lighting I think?) that'd be too thick though surely? I'll just pop down maplin or b&q tomorrow for some female adapters and shrink cable cover things, is soldering the joints a good idea as well as the adapter or not?

#5 panky

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 09:22 PM

It's worth getting a proper crimping tool (not the 70's hair styling type ;D ) They are much more secure, very easy to use and you use insulated connectors with them. I got this one.

 

Dead cheap but it works perfectly

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1eb708be15

 

I usually add a short length of heat shrink over the tail of the connector, just to support the wire.


Edited by panky, 05 August 2017 - 09:24 PM.


#6 Laurie

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 09:49 PM

Many thanks again x

I just checked that cable and it's 32a and much much too thick, so I'll buy some tomorrow

Also I just offered the plastic lamp holders up to the metal frame and there's room to spare around the sides, (though the screw holders line up perfectly) is this normal or should I fill it with rubber mastic?

Edited by Laurie, 05 August 2017 - 09:51 PM.


#7 panky

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 10:18 PM

From what I can remember there's no seal just a couple of small grommets to cushion the screws against the plastic lens.



#8 Ethel

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Posted 05 August 2017 - 10:37 PM

Minis are 12v, B'n Q's cable will be rated at 220v.

 

1.0mm2 cable is fine for most general auto wiring. It needs to be multi-strand flex. If you have to rewire tomorrow a motor factors (Halfords) or Maplins should have better stuff on offer - pre-insulated crimps aren't the best. You could see what you find first. 



#9 Swift_General

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Posted 06 August 2017 - 08:27 AM

I use a crimper for non insulated terminals. Cost me a fair bit, but produces quality professional looking crimp.

aotrPLO.jpg

GogguN5.jpg

Edited by Swift_General, 06 August 2017 - 05:59 PM.


#10 tiger99

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 07:39 AM

Swift_General, you make a very good point, especially with the pictures. It cannot be said often enough that using the PROPER crimp tool is absolutely essential for a reliable job, as can be seen from your neat and well-formed crimp. Unfortunately, you need a different tool for each type of connector, but if you rewire a complete car you can standardise on blades rather than bullets (more reliable anyway) and hopefully economise on the tooling.

And yes, it must be automotive grade wire. Nothing to do with the insulation, it is the fatigue behaviour under vibration that matters. That is why household mains cable, which never moves, has very thick strands or is solid (cheaper) while flexible appliance cable has very many fine strands, and automotive is in between.

No need for 16 amp cable here, that is just ridiculous. As for modern thin insulation, not necessary but harmless, provided that the crimp tool will correctly close the insulation support tightly round it. That usually means different crimp tools for thin and thick insulation, so it is best to stick with what is already on the car, which will be the thick type.

#11 Laurie

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Posted 14 August 2017 - 08:36 AM

I've bought some automotive grade wire from amazon, just waiting for the bottle to do it now lol




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